ping-pop and stall - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 09-14-2017, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Yellowknife, NWT
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ping-pop and stall

2009 650 KLR. This AM it was about +1C with frost on the ground and the bike started and ran normally until I was a block from work and coming up to a stop-sign. I downshifted as usual from third to second and then into first as I slowed right down, with the usual minor occasional pinging and popping as I decelerated. Usually not an issue and ping-pop has no effect on the engine running or rpm, but this AM the pings and pops seemed to start increasing and I felt I was losing power and then the motor stalled. I coasted to the curb at the stop-sign, shifted to neutral and hit the starter and she fired right up without any issue and drove me the rest of the way to my parking spot no problems. This is the first time the bike's ever stalled like this. I'll see if it does it again on my way home in two hours, but now I'm nervous.
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post #2 of 8 Old 09-15-2017, 09:44 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
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Have you ever had the carburetor off? Was the idle mixture tamper-resistant cap removed, ahead of the float bowl? Do you know how many turns open it may be from lightly seated?

Exhaust after-fire or popping can be an indication of slightly too lean of idle mixture, unless your header pipe gasket is loose or burned out.

A slightly lean idle mixture would be even more noticeable during cool autumn temps. 2 turns open is usually about correct + or - a 1/4-1/2 turn, open is richer.

pdwestman
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post #3 of 8 Old 09-18-2017, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Problem seems to have disappeared despite similar temps. I've ridden a dozen times since, and no issues. I will check the carb setting anyway, although I've never touched it so suspect it's in spec. We're running out 'days left to ride before the snow flies' pretty quick here. Thinking about studded tires to extend the season, and was concerned colder temps - below zero C (32 F) might be an issue with the motor performance. I think there's a number of other issues tagged on to winter riding and these may be show-stoppers. We can drive our sleds on the streets to get to the lake or trails, but its not the same.
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post #4 of 8 Old 09-18-2017, 07:27 PM
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The four stroke engine of the KLR650 needs at least 20-30 miles of run time/each time to keep the engine oil from turning milky white from cold start condensation. And a new muffler is over $400! It also needs 10-20 miles of run time/each time.

A Thermo-Bob 195f thermostat by-pass assembly may help prevent the 'milky oil' issue, still needs 15-20 miles of run time/each time. But I have nothing to help with rusty muffler issue.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #5 of 8 Old 09-30-2017, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
The four stroke engine of the KLR650 needs at least 20-30 miles of run time/each time to keep the engine oil from turning milky white from cold start condensation...............
I wonder if a crankcase vent check valve in the vent line like some used to use to try to reduce oil consumption would restrict the entry of moist air into the case and reduce condensation.

I don't like the idea of running the engine an extra 20 minutes after a 5 minuet ride to the grocery store.

Last edited by GoMotor; 09-30-2017 at 12:07 PM.
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post #6 of 8 Old 09-30-2017, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
I wonder if a crankcase vent check valve in the vent line like some used to use to try to reduce oil consumption would restrict the entry of moist air into the case and reduce condensation.

I don't like the idea of running the engine an extra 20 minutes after a 5 minuet ride to the grocery store.
NOPE! (that can actually multiply the problem in cooler climes.)

That won't help at all. The moisture that our engines have to contend with comes from with-in.
When one heats cold metal, it forms condensation on the surface of the metal, then it warms up and then dries out.

It is not moist air from the exterior atmosphere that is the problem.
Neither is 2 or 3 short runs to the convenience store and back, as long as the engine gets a good 20 minutes to 2 hr run sometime this week.

pdwestman
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post #7 of 8 Old 09-30-2017, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
NOPE! (that can actually multiply the problem in cooler climes.)

That won't help at all. The moisture that our engines have to contend with comes from with-in.
When one heats cold metal, it forms condensation on the surface of the metal, then it warms up and then dries out.

It is not moist air from the exterior atmosphere that is the problem..........
So, the moisture is coming from the combustion chamber past the rings and condensing on the cooler oil and crankcase metal. Yes?
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post #8 of 8 Old 10-01-2017, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
So, the moisture is coming from the combustion chamber past the rings and condensing on the cooler oil and crankcase metal. Yes?
I'll say Yes.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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