2008 Speedometer drive repair - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 26 Old 12-11-2018, 07:56 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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Doing a little winter maintenance on my '87 -A1 with 83,000+ miles on it.

So, just so as I can say I've done it, I totally disassembled the speedometer drive to inspect the base of the housing for wear. I have wiped out old grease & added fresh over the past 31 years. But as I've said earlier in this thread, Do Not Wash it Out. The base of my housing and the gears are in Perfect Condition.

The roll pin retaining my bushing appeared to have been purposely installed at a slight angle (Had to use hand held drill motor, not drill press. I had to try 4 different drill motors to find a chuck which would grip the 0.052" tiny bit. ), so as the tiny drill bit just skinned paint on the side of the housing which contains the seal.
In order to have enough room for a 3/32" drill bit & pin punch to be centered on the roll pin I needed to file a flat relief on the side of the housing. The base metal is not very thick to the butt of the roll pin and we only want to drill the aluminum, not the steel roll pin.

Due to the shape of the back side of the housing, my 3/32" pin punch was too short to drive the roll pin completely out, but I only needed it to clear the aluminum bushing, which it did.

Next I used a 12mm x 1.00 thread pitch Nut to screw onto the threads of the bushing and used a 2 jaw slam hammer puller to extract the bushing and the pinion gear.

My pinion gear has a steel thrust washer at the base & a copper washer between the pinion and the bushing.
Campfires pinion gear may have been missing the steel thrust washer from day 1, from the factory, which may help explain why his pinion gear wore deeper into the base of the aluminum housing, causing him to need to use a ball bearing & washers in the base.

I will say this was kind of a tedious / time consuming little job.

My best advise for most owners still is, Never Wash the old grease OUT of the speedometer drive.
Remove the drive tab & ring gear. Then use your finger to wipe out the old & glob in some fresh. Mash some fresh up into pinion gear area. Re-install the ring gear with drive tab
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post #12 of 26 Old 12-12-2018, 07:24 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
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Lubricant from the speedo cable can drain into the aluminum bushing and along side of the longer end of the pinion.

But I have another thought on how one could re-grease the blind tip of the pinion gear. If one has a grease injector needle with the rounded tip which is intended to be pressed up against the tiny check ball in a grease zerk. (Not the hypodermic pointy type)

One could drill a 1/16th inch hole into the front of the bullet nose surrounding the pinion tip. Press the injector needle up against the 1/16th inch hole and give it a tiny shot of grease. It will fill the blind end nearly instantaneously, so don't attempt to force more in!
When one backs the injector needle away from the 1/16th inch hole it may even push a little grease back out, that's fine. Wipe the blob off & then using a rag with brake or carb cleaner wipe again.

Now put a little blob of RTV silicone over the 1/16th inch hole. Next year one can pull the blob & give the pinion another tiny shot of grease and again re-seal.
Tom Schmitz and campfire like this.
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post #13 of 26 Old 12-29-2019, 11:13 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Lake George, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Lubricant from the speedo cable can drain into the aluminum bushing and along side of the longer end of the pinion.

But I have another thought on how one could re-grease the blind tip of the pinion gear. If one has a grease injector needle with the rounded tip which is intended to be pressed up against the tiny check ball in a grease zerk. (Not the hypodermic pointy type)

One could drill a 1/16th inch hole into the front of the bullet nose surrounding the pinion tip. Press the injector needle up against the 1/16th inch hole and give it a tiny shot of grease. It will fill the blind end nearly instantaneously, so don't attempt to force more in!
When one backs the injector needle away from the 1/16th inch hole it may even push a little grease back out, that's fine. Wipe the blob off & then using a rag with brake or carb cleaner wipe again.

Now put a little blob of RTV silicone over the 1/16th inch hole. Next year one can pull the blob & give the pinion another tiny shot of grease and again re-seal. <img src="http://www.klrforum.com/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
. OK, But might it be simpler to merely squirt some chain lube down the top of the speedo drive cable so that it will flow down to the troublesome pinion gear?
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post #14 of 26 Old 12-30-2019, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by TLHBill View Post
. OK, But might it be simpler to merely squirt some chain lube down the top of the speedo drive cable so that it will flow down to the troublesome pinion gear?
That Does NOT lubricate the blind bearing pocket at the front of the pinion gear! It only lubricates the upper bushing.
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post #15 of 26 Old 12-30-2019, 11:45 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by TLHBill View Post
. OK, But might it be simpler to merely squirt some chain lube down the top of the speedo drive cable so that it will flow down to the troublesome pinion gear?
That Does NOT lubricate the blind bearing pocket at the front of the pinion gear! It only lubricates the upper bushing.
. Hmmm &#x1f914;
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post #16 of 26 Old 01-02-2020, 05:19 PM
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Location: Champaign, IL USA
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
That Does NOT lubricate the blind bearing pocket at the front of the pinion gear! It only lubricates the upper bushing.
And, depending on the chain lube, you may cause the cable to bind...Think Chain Wax and other thick lubes.

I find that flushing out brake, clutch, throttle, speedo cables, plain old
"WD-40" cleans pretty good. To lubricate after cleaning, I use "Gibbs".

This won't fix your problem though.
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post #17 of 26 Old 01-02-2020, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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I had tried spraying down into the pinion when I had it apart, and it just runs down over the pinion and into the main housing. Just as easy to pull the front wheel, get access to the speedo drive and do a clean & lube.

I did over pack mine last time I had it apart and it would leak out of the seal and drip on the tire/rim. Then I was doing some wiring on the dash, and saw that it had made its way all the way up the cable to the speedometer housing. So go easy on the grease in there.
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post #18 of 26 Old 04-06-2020, 11:38 AM
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Location: Lander, Wyoming
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I'm wondering if this thread might be "STICKIED" into "How To's & Tech Guides" as well as here in the 2008 section?

I've referenced it / linked it many times for various people, driving up 'campfires' visitor count.

I feel that post #12 is an "easy cheater" to a complete lubing.
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post #19 of 26 Old 05-04-2020, 04:45 PM
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Does anyone know of a trick how to get that seal out that’s fitted in the hub?
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post #20 of 26 Old 05-04-2020, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Cslang77 View Post
Does anyone know of a trick how to get that seal out thatís fitted in the hub?
There is NO Seal in the front HUB. The bearing seals are NOT intended to be removed.
There is a grease seal in the speedometer drive assembly.

Click here, https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/o...3e5f/front-hub
And tell me the number,
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