2008 Speedometer drive repair - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 26 Old 01-25-2018, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Arrow 2008 Speedometer drive repair

I had the speedometer go out on me around 12-14K miles ago, and found that the actual speedometer failed in the cluster. I found one on CL and bought it, put a sticker on the face to correct the mileage, etc.
Last week it started bouncing again, and reading 50 MPH while my GPS was showing 65. I had bought a box of spare parts a while back and it had another speedo head in it. Did a quick swap and still had the same issue.

Dug into it a little deeper and pulled the front wheel off. Removed the drive pinion housing and cleaned out the grease to see what was in there.

Oh boy.



Now first of all, you can get replacement parts for the seal, the little sheet metal drive tab, and the drive gear, but NO driven gear that is roll pinned into the housing.

I hate it when something is called "Non-Serviceable". Or I just love to take things apart.
So let's back up a moment. I also had a spare drive in that box of parts, so I could afford to start dissecting one with another on the bench. After cleaning up the grease, I spotted the worn out drive gear, and then saw the chipped gear tooth on the driven gear.

I used a 3/32" drill bit and drilled out the roll pin. But the aluminum threaded connector/upper bushing is pressed into the main housing. I had to get creative and tap the driven gear out driving the housing out.
I re-drilled both pieces out to 1/8" and had a new roll pin.



So after really digging into this, I found that the drive gear is spinning counter clockwise (looking into the housing) and that drives the driven gear DOWNWARD. Steel driven gear against aluminum housing = wear of the housing and binding up of the driven gear.




So now the fix. I had enough in the two housings to make one good one.
I added two brass washers to the lower end on the driven gear shaft (there is one steel originally) and dropped a .177 BB into the lower shaft hole to take up space.
Everything lined up, installed 1/8" roll pin.
I also used Lucas "Red & Tacky" lube in the housing this time.

Or you can buy a new housing complete for around $70 USD if you're in a hurry and don't like to take things apart.

Keep riding!
See you out there.

Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation."

Jeff in Napa California

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 04-06-2020 at 01:38 PM.
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post #2 of 26 Old 01-26-2018, 04:09 AM
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Brilliant. BRILLIANT!
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post #3 of 26 Old 01-26-2018, 09:03 AM
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An excellent post. Good to see how something, that isn't supposed to come apart, comes apart and goes back together.

Tom [email protected]

“On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again.” -Philip Marlowe

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post #4 of 26 Old 01-26-2018, 03:34 PM
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I've been trying to suggest or explain my theory for about 8 years on the forums, that it is seizure of the pinion gear shaft, which locks the ring gear (with the drive tab), that shears the aluminum flange off of the front wheel hub.

In my opinion, when owners clean all of the old grease out of the speedometer gear box (thinking they are doing a good thing), there is Not much of a Way to re-grease that pinion shaft. A few drops of engine oil doesn't last long, because the pinion shaft is at the top. (If they even think about using some.)

The drive box was originally designed to be mounted on the LH side, so the pinion would be at the bottom. Engine oil could then lubricate that pinion shaft (or the oil that separates out of some greases) .


I have a tip for removing roll pins in similar applications. In order to use original size roll pin.

Using a drill bit which passes thru the center of the roll pin, drill clear thru the backside of the blind hole in the base metal.
Then use a drill bit slightly smaller than the roll pin to enlarge the hole from the backside.
Then use a pin punch to drive the roll pin back out, of what used to be the blind hole.
The step in the hole will still control the depth of pin during re-installation.

Next, depending on application, J-B Weld can be used re-seal the back side.
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Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #5 of 26 Old 01-26-2018, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I've been trying to suggest or explain my theory for about 8 years on the forums, that it is seizure of the pinion gear shaft, which locks the ring gear (with the drive tab), that shears the aluminum flange off of the front wheel hub.

In my opinion, when owners clean all of the old grease out of the speedometer gear box (thinking they are doing a good thing), there is Not much of a Way to re-grease that pinion shaft. A few drops of engine oil doesn't last long, because the pinion shaft is at the top. (If they even think about using some.)

The drive box was originally designed to be mounted on the LH side, so the pinion would be at the bottom. Engine oil could then lubricate that pinion shaft (or the oil that separates out of some greases) .


I have a tip for removing roll pins in similar applications. In order to use original size roll pin.

Using a drill bit which passes thru the center of the roll pin, drill clear thru the backside of the blind hole in the base metal.
Then use a drill bit slightly smaller than the roll pin to enlarge the hole from the backside.
Then use a pin punch to drive the roll pin back out, of what used to be the blind hole.
The step in the hole will still control the depth of pin during re-installation.

Next, depending on application, J-B Weld can be used re-seal the back side.
Thanks for the tips!

I was wondering about the pinion being on the high side. That explains it a bit.
And I was trying to figure out just where that pin would come out if I drilled all the way through the housing. I drilled out the pin first with 3/32 and it came out pretty easy.
I used a long roll pin this time to extend out so I can remove it later and inspect how those new "thrust washers" are holding up.
I think I might make this part of my 20,000 mile service schedule.

Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation."

Jeff in Napa California
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post #6 of 26 Old 01-26-2018, 11:05 PM
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Now this is the kind of thing I like to see/hear about! I'm happy to hear that you were able to make one out of two! I grew up without much in the way of money and though I have been riding bikes since I was a young child, we never had anything close to being new. And with no dealerships in my area to speak of, or any internet to buy parts we often found ourselves in similar situations. It was always about making things work with what we had laying around. Sometimes all those boxes/tubs of parts laying around the garage can be better than money in the bank!

Great fix and excellent job presenting your explanation! I guess I'll be pulling my front wheel to do my own inspection!

Thanks

Antwon
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post #7 of 26 Old 01-28-2018, 09:18 AM
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You've impressed the Cheapster and made me proud. LOL

Nice work, pics, and description.

This is my son, with whom I am well pleased." ----God
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post #8 of 26 Old 01-28-2018, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post

Using a drill bit which passes thru the center of the roll pin, drill clear thru the backside of the blind hole in the base metal. -----------------

Next, depending on application, J-B Weld can be used re-seal the back side.
Now with an extra housing sitting here, I plan on trying to make some sort of drop in brass bushing prototype for the end. It'll be a good little project for the lathe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Antwon View Post
------------- Sometimes all those boxes/tubs of parts laying around the garage can be better than money in the bank! ------------

Thanks

Antwon
I've thought about cleaning out a couple of times and listing stuff on the forum, or on eBay. But then something like this comes up and I'm just glad to have that box out in the shed.
I've already used parts off my spare triple clamp that I never would have been able to source on-line.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CheapBassTurd View Post
You've impressed the Cheapster and made me proud. LOL

Nice work, pics, and description.
Wow! I'm honored. Doing something cheap enough to impress the Cheapster?
Isn't that what KLR riders do best? Try to out cheap each other?
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Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation."

Jeff in Napa California
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post #9 of 26 Old 01-28-2018, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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After getting most of the "repairs" done, I was so excited to get it back together I forgot to post the final assembly.
So by using the old stuff (and start designing the bushing) I've laid out the repair a little more.

Here are the brass washers used with a smaller one at the end to fit into the worn out housing. And then the BB to drop into the end cavity as a spacer and bearing point for the shaft to ride on.




Here is the housing for the shaft end that's worn. I chipped the aluminum trying to press out the top cap/bushing. But in doing so, I might take Paul's advice and make a channel to let oil in there, we'll see if that happens.




And then the final assembly with the washer and grease in place. I'm going to inspect it this week to see how it has worked after a ride or two, and try some 90w with some oil stabilizer to make it really stick and coat everything well.




Once assembled, the driven gear only moved a little up & down and spun very smooth.




More later on the bushing idea.

Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation."

Jeff in Napa California
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post #10 of 26 Old 02-02-2018, 12:30 PM
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For me, the headache might be worth the $70. But great job, saved some money and fixed it yourself. And good information to have in the future for the rest of us as well.
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