16T Drive sprocket - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-23-2018, 09:15 PM Thread Starter
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16T Drive sprocket

I replaced the 15T with a 16T sprocket and the bike is running great, but now I hear a "ticking" sound as it rotates that I hadn't noticed with the 15T. Chain adjusted and lubed, properly torqued drive nut. Runs great. Have I missed something?
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post #2 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 12:43 AM
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Check the routing of the wires that run just in front of the sprocket? Also chain and sprocket aignment. I think the counter sprocket can be installed backwards if I remember correctly. Not sure if that’d cause enough misalignment to make any noise though.
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 07:01 AM
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I have the 16T gear sitting in a drawer and now that I'm familiar with the power band, I don't think I'm going to put it on. I can cruise at 75mph and it's a nice soft vibration spot.
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patroy75 View Post
I have the 16T gear sitting in a drawer and now that I'm familiar with the power band, I don't think I'm going to put it on. I can cruise at 75mph and it's a nice soft vibration spot.
For as easy as it is to change, you might like the result. You will be able to cruise at 80 with that same vibration spot you mentioned. Hey does your Zero Gravity ST windscreen vibrate excessively in lower gears?
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamwalker View Post
For as easy as it is to change, you might like the result. You will be able to cruise at 80 with that same vibration spot you mentioned. Hey does your Zero Gravity ST windscreen vibrate excessively in lower gears?
Me? I have the mad dog, mad cap or mad something (Madstad) and it does vibrate a tad even with the rear brackets but not enough that I would want to switch it out. It was perfect right out of the box. I got the 20" and should have gotten the 18" simply because where I put itwas at it's lowest and that worked perfectly. I don't think I would go higher but might go lower so the 18" would be better.
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post #6 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamwalker View Post
Have I missed something?
Maybe.

As Bluehighways says, "backward" installation of your countershaft sprocket may be possible. Does the sprocket have an offset boss on one side?

If so, don't ask ME which side, smooth or bossed, goes against the engine. I've always figured, if a boss exists, its purpose is to offset the sprocket, and assembled the drivetrain with that assumption (boss against engine).

As to the "click," OEM countershaft sprockets have a rubber damper/cushion; aftermarkets I've seen do not. The rubber on the OEM parts may quiet the "click," don't know.
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post #7 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. I followed Tim2Wheels on youtube which had the smooth side against engine. Initially I had the bossed side against engine and the noise I heard is what prompted me to watch install again. After the flip there was no noticeable change. Was hoping someone had same sort of tick. BTW, can only be heard when moving with clutch in, no throttle, coasting. Reading old thread I found this[QUOTE=Tom Schmitz;78998]tylerw -

There is sufficient adjustment at the back of the swing arm to allow a 16t sprocket to be installed.

How many miles are on your chain, and what general condition is it in?

Often, it is not prudent to install new sprockets with an old chain. As the chain wears it's pitch changes a wee bit, making the fit on a new sprocket (the old sprockets will be correspondingly worn) a bit off.
Probably what is causing the tick. Now should I be concerned with fit being a bit off? Just turned 3000 miles, about 60 of that is with 16T on.

Last edited by beamwalker; 05-24-2018 at 06:39 PM. Reason: added
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post #8 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 06:36 PM
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Chain too tight?

It needs to be pretty loose. With rear suspension fully extended, the bottom slack side should just touch the bottom of the swing arm.

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post #9 of 10 Old 05-24-2018, 06:47 PM
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There is very little clearance between the chain and the sprocket guard with a stock sprocket. Even less with a larger sprocket. If a stick or stone gets in there it can cause a ticking.

It could be that you only hear it when coasting because the rear sprocket pulls the lower chain run tight when coasting and the chain slack goes to the top chain run. This could allow the chain to rise just a little at the front sprocket and hit the guard.
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post #10 of 10 Old 05-29-2018, 07:00 PM
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Your bike isnt running as loud on the road now as it was with the smaller sprocket, so now you hear all those whack-a-doodle noysus that have always been there. Adjust your chain tension correctly and go with it. When it stops making clatter, then worry.

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