Engine Seized? I'm an idiot.. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Seized? I'm an idiot..

So, I was riding up to work yesterday (about 35 miles on the highway just outside of Las Vegas) and my engine lost a bit of power: it started slowing down with constant throttle pressure. I let off the gas a bit and it was running alright. I gave it a bit more gas while going up a little hill and it completely shut off. I coasted to the side of the road and three hours later, was in the shop. They looked it over and found it low on oil and flakes of metal in the oil filter. I had just put oil in it maybe two weeks before. Me, being the ignorant idiot that I am, didn't realize that it was burning through oil way faster than I thought while going at highway speeds. I assume it is completely shot and no hope for recovery. Please let me know. Is there any hope? The shop said it was going to be $652 just for them to break it down the rest of the way and see what is causing the failure. Is it worth it? Should I just try to do it myself (I basically have no mechanical experience, accept helping my friend swap out an engine, one time. but have wanted to learn..)? What are your thoughts, other than I don't deserve to ride this bike because of my negligence..? Be gentle, please.

-Devon
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post #2 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 04:16 PM
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Too late to say check the oil level at every ride and keep it at the VERY top of the sightglass.

I'm afraid you probably toasted the cam bearings; only one way to tell for sure - open it up and look.


Good luck,
Dave
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post #3 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 04:40 PM
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Take the bike home. There's no reason to throw good money after bad, and what you got is bad.

You toasted the head. Get the bike home, pull the tank, pull the valve cover, look at the right-hand exhaust journal to verify that you ran it out of oil and toasted the head.

Take a couple of pictures and send them to Engine Dynamics in Petaluma, CA and ask them if they think it is fixable. It will probably cost you what the shop wanted just to crack it open to fix the head and put the thing back together.

Keep the group in the loop on this and you'll be walked through the process.

You can do it. It is just an engine.
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post #4 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
Too late to say check the oil level at every ride and keep it at the VERY top of the sightglass.

I'm afraid you probably toasted the cam bearings; only one way to tell for sure - open it up and look.


Good luck,
Dave
Thanks Dave. I'm pretty sure you're right. Do you think it's even worth trying to fix?
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post #5 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 04:52 PM
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Once the cams, cylinder head, cylinder, piston & rings are removed, take pics of the head and send them to these guys to ask for an appraisal of repair of bearings & valves. They can over-bore & hone the cylinder also, for an Eagle Mike or Schnitz Racing 661 or 685 piston kit. They need a piston kit in hand along with the worn cylinder and damaged head.

ENGINE DYNAMICS

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Engin...54264057944195

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #6 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 04:56 PM
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Follow Tom's advice. Also when you have the Cylinder Head off, you might want to post some pictures of the Cylinder Wall with the Piston at the bottom of the Cylinder. Take a couple of pictures so we can see the entire circumference of the Cylinder Wall. You may or may not need to do a bit more than the Cylinder Head, but frankly, a 685 Kit should be on your list if the Cylinder Head is repairable anyway. Particularly if it was already burning that much oil before this happened.

FWIW, One of the really "bad" things about a KLR is, that no matter how bad they break, it's almost always cheaper to fix them than it is to throw them away.

Not to worry . . . . you certainly aren't the first and you will definitely will not be the last to find yourself and your KLR in precisely this exact situation.
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post #7 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Take the bike home. There's no reason to throw good money after bad, and what you got is bad.

You toasted the head. Get the bike home, pull the tank, pull the valve cover, look at the right-hand exhaust journal to verify that you ran it out of oil and toasted the head.

Take a couple of pictures and send them to Engine Dynamics in Petaluma, CA and ask them if they think it is fixable. It will probably cost you what the shop wanted just to crack it open to fix the head and put the thing back together.

Keep the group in the loop on this and you'll be walked through the process.

You can do it. It is just an engine.
Thanks, Tom. That looks like the best option for me right now. And thanks for advice about Engine Dynamics. I will definitely be doing that and keep this thread updated. 'Preciate it!

Devon
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post #8 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 05:11 PM
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It's repairable ....usually. As Paul suggested, I'd throw in an Eaglemike 685 at the same time if I had to go that far anyways, but first see if the head is salvagable. Other than that, you need to find a replacement motor or part her out. :-(
If you pay a shop to do all the work for you, it will likely be cheaper to do a motor swap. If you can do the rebuild (other than parts and machining) then I'd go that route.

Dave
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post #9 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 05:53 PM
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Hey Fellas,

Still amazed at youse guy's Resources... and I'm continually adding them to my KLR NoteBook - Justen Kase

What about an Engine Schwap?
Some folks are almost throwing away KLRs like the '03 I picked up (pretty rough shape, though mostly easily fixable), especially if a BasketCase.
And I have faith left in 'Merica enough that she'll present a bonafide Seller with a real (used) motor that runs upon hook up???
$650-ish should get you a lot I'd think... maybe not a Off-The-Shelf ReBuilt with 90D Warranty, but it might be an option if you go further and find more damage.

Hope to hear that it all works out quickly and cheaply for you.
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post #10 of 42 Old 08-02-2018, 05:57 PM
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I’ve been wrenching nearly 50 years so something like this comes pretty much second nature to me, but on the other hand I’ve had guys work for me that aren’t mechanically inclined and have a lot of trouble just putting the ratchet wrench on and turning the correct direction.
Even the old timer mechanics use manuals at times, so it’s entirely up to you if you feel comfortable doing the work. It’s a pretty simple engine.
With the help of even just a Clymer manual, and the good folks here, I’m sure you can do this. Desire and patience along with a willingness to learn, will make it happen.

My 2 cents worth
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