I have to agree with shaky6. The only direction I would move the piston is down, by hand. And I'd only do that to gain more room for the vacuum.
I have a rig that attaches to my vacuum that I can put a small hose on just for this sort of issue. It is this little kit. You will need to add a couple of bits of hose, one that fits inside the kit's hose and another that fits inside that hose, to get into the cylinder.
Try to use a vacuum that has the sort of filter where you can clean the filter or trap and find the pieces you have sucked up. I have a small Makita vacuum, but any hand-held vacuum will likely work. My shop vac has too much suction and too large a filter. The Shark house vac has a canister and is OK.
I also have a cheap endoscope (again, just for this sort of issue).
The thing is a giant pain in the ass to use, but you can see stuff with it.
As to your oil burning issues, there are three routes to go.
A) pull the head and cylinder and get a big-bore kit. Figure $750.
B) do Paul Westman's oil system mods
. Figure $25 and an hour of wrenching. At least read the article.
C) check the oil every time you get on and everytime you get off. Religiously. Add oil, keeping it at the top of the sight glass.
My recommendation is always to go the "check the damn thing and add oil as required" route, as $750 buys a lot of oil and there is little that can go wrong.
If you are interested in curing the problem, do Paul's mods. They will probably work on a mild oil burner.
If Paul's mods can't handle the oil burning then, as a last resort, drop the $750 on the big bore. You will be able to convince yourself that you have way more power and the front end lofts effortlessly (you won't and it won't, really) but it will cure the oil burning issue. It's a fair bit of work and takes some time, too.
But, unfortunately, ya gotta get the rock out of there.