Doohickey Question - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 16 Old 10-26-2018, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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Doohickey Question

I'm sure this has been asked several times.
I'm New and sorry. Just got an '08 w/ 18k.
Do not know if mod has been done. looking for torque values needed to put things back together before I pull it apart.
Thanks in advance
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post #2 of 16 Old 10-26-2018, 08:06 AM
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All case fasteners are 69 in-lb.

Rotor bolt is 145 ft-lb, though you'll find a lot of opinion on that. Some people will go as low as 120 ft-lb and Kawasaki has changed the spec a couple of times.

Watch this video series:

Tom [email protected]

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'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #3 of 16 Old 10-26-2018, 08:16 AM
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In conjunction with the original question, if I was to get in there, is there a way to know if the previous owner replaced it? Something visual to look for? I bought a used 2014.5 from a dealer and don't know, but would like to check mine too.

Sammy

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post #4 of 16 Old 10-26-2018, 08:28 AM
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That's in video #3 of the series and at 7:30 in video #4 (though there is a tooth in the way of seeing the torsion spring. Doh!).

You have to take the outer case off and peer under the ring gear. The aftermarket lever has a different surface finish than the OEM does. Also, if you can see a wee bit of the torsion spring working end hooked to the lever, that is a dead giveaway.

Tom [email protected]

I lit a cigarette and dragged a smoking stand beside the chair. The minutes went by on tiptoe, with their fingers to their lips. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #5 of 16 Old 10-26-2018, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks
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post #6 of 16 Old 10-26-2018, 08:49 AM
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Yes, thank you so much... Therm-O-Bob install and Doohickey check, coming up.

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post #7 of 16 Old 10-29-2018, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Doohickey done.
Thermobob next.
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post #8 of 16 Old 10-29-2018, 08:05 PM
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Good on ya!

I just finished putting the third Thermo-Bob on the same bike. It has now officially had a TB-1, TB-2, and a TB-3 on it.

Where's my sign?

Tom [email protected]

I lit a cigarette and dragged a smoking stand beside the chair. The minutes went by on tiptoe, with their fingers to their lips. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #9 of 16 Old 10-29-2018, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Good on ya!

I just finished putting the third Thermo-Bob on the same bike. It has now officially had a TB-1, TB-2, and a TB-3 on it.

Where's my sign?
So you just removed the TB-3 with an automotive size, reliable thermostat to install a TB-2 with an original size Chinese thermostat, Correct?
I'm sure that you triple checked its operational temp.

It will be interesting to hear which one yields the more preferred, consistent temperature.
Do I remember that there was a little difference between the TB-1 & the TB-3 temps?

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 10-29-2018 at 08:32 PM.
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-29-2018, 11:56 PM
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@pdwestman

Paul, the original T-Bob (TB-1) had an automotive size t-stat. I went from a TB-1 to a TB-3 and, now, to a TB-2. The TB-2 and the TB-3 both have the Cheap Chinee Scooter t-stat.

These things are somewhat problematic as the quality control is, um, Cheap Chinee Scooter quality. That's why wattman ships two in every kit, I believe.

The first one I had in the TB-3 was absolutely wonky. Neither Bill nor I could figure out just what it was doing. The thing of it was that it acted perfectly normally in a pot of hot water on the stove but, in the bike, it acted like it was stuck open. Actually, it acted like it wasn't there. Or perhaps it was confused. The second one was fine and has been perfectly reliable for the past 15K miles or so. I have transferred it over to the TB-2 and mounted it exactly as I had it in the TB-3 with respect to its orientation to the incoming bypass line.

It will be interesting to see if the location of the T-stat has any bearing on the observed temperatures. I still have a temp sensor down near the radiator outlet where the bypass mixes with the radiator output. I haven't had a chance to wring it out yet and see what it does.

I'm going to Taos for a few days but I am taking the BMW, so I don't know when I might be able to see what it is doing. I might just take the KLR for a run up to Death Valley when I get back from Taos.

There probably was a difference between the TB-1 and TB-3; I don't remember the details. I think that would be attributable to having the TB-1 control the inlet temperature to the radiator while the TB-3 was controlling the radiator's outlet temperature. Both had 195F T-stats.

Tom [email protected]

I lit a cigarette and dragged a smoking stand beside the chair. The minutes went by on tiptoe, with their fingers to their lips. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 10-29-2018 at 11:58 PM.
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