Front brake rotor - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 30 Old 11-12-2018, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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Front brake rotor

My front rotor is scored quite a bit. I don't ride in mud, or nasty stuff, and try to keep the bike somewhat clean, and pads are almost new.. With about 26K on the bike, is this normal?

I checked a couple of online sources, and the price of a new OEM rotor is around $383.00
I haven't tried to see what my local Kawasaki dealer would charge, yet.

Any suggestions on a source for a new rotor.

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
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post #2 of 30 Old 11-12-2018, 08:14 AM
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Upgrade to a larger EDC rotor or Galfer rotor that come with an adaptor plate for the caliper. Much better braking performance for less money.
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post #3 of 30 Old 11-12-2018, 10:46 AM
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The OEM manufactures really ought to gauge their prices against the aftermarket suppliers. As soon as an aftermarket supplier make a better performing and/or less expensive (but still high quality) replacement part for a bike, car or truck, the OEM should under-cut the aftermarket price tag by 10-20%, IMHO.

Otherwise the OEMs eventually just have to re-cycle the left-over hard parts the hard way. Re-melt & Re-cast, and that's after warehousing perfectly good parts for 10-30 years!

Larry, as long as the rotor is not worn below minimum thickness it is only a cosmetic issue. High grip pads can be pretty abrasive to some softer rotors.

pdwestman
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post #4 of 30 Old 11-12-2018, 11:35 AM
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EBC 320mm rotor is better, cheaper and comes with the caliper relocation bracket. I see zero reason to buy a stocker

Dave
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post #5 of 30 Old 11-12-2018, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
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Rotor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
The OEM manufactures really ought to gauge their prices against the aftermarket suppliers. As soon as an aftermarket supplier make a better performing and/or less expensive (but still high quality) replacement part for a bike, car or truck, the OEM should under-cut the aftermarket price tag by 10-20%, IMHO.

Otherwise the OEMs eventually just have to re-cycle the left-over hard parts the hard way. Re-melt & Re-cast, and that's after warehousing perfectly good parts for 10-30 years!

Larry, as long as the rotor is not worn below minimum thickness it is only a cosmetic issue. High grip pads can be pretty abrasive to some softer rotors.
PD: Thanks for response.
Do you know what the minimum thickness is? I'm thinking of letting my local machine shop do resurfacing.
I didn't know if someone knew of a less expensive source, of decent quality of course.

Are original rotors on the KLR softer than other bikes. I've never had a rotor get ground down like this in 26K miles. I always felt like I am kind of easy on brakes.
Our 2005 Prius with 106K still has original brake pads! (Regen braking on the electrics.)

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
Doo-Hicky
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post #6 of 30 Old 11-12-2018, 08:03 PM
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Rotor scoring (as in, grooving not unlike a 78 rpm phonograph record) to some extent, is a function of the abrasiveness of the brake pads used (in my opinion).

What brake pads have you used?

My riding partner and I installed identical oversized rotors (320 mm?); he chose Gafler Green pads (unavailable now, I understand), I installed OEM pads. After a couple of thousand miles, his rotor remained essentially smooth, while mine looked like you could stick a phonograph needle into the grooves and listen to the, "Golden Oldies" of yesteryear.

I changed to a, kinder, gentler pad; no significant compromise in my mostly-pavement riding braking, considerably smoother engagement.

The brake pad manufacturers know what they're doing: A "racing" pad (and rotor) need to last only one race; the designers are more interested in, "there's no tomorrow" competitive friction; serious racers don't mind replacing pads and rotors; longevity isn't primary interest.

The service limits for brake rotor thickness appear in service manuals; mine ain't handy to look it up. A competent machine shop, I should think, could re-surface a rotor; serviceable along as minimum thickness can be maintained. Mind the pads used after the rotor is smoothed.

All this said, I agree with posts above recommending oversize rotor and corresponding caliper bracket vs. OEM replacement; a cheaper and more effective upgrade. Might consider a steel-wrapped front brake line, while you're at it!
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post #7 of 30 Old 11-13-2018, 10:04 AM
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I very much doubt it makes any sense to have the rotor resurfaced.....aside from the cost (if you can find a shop that will do it) , it will now warp easier once it's thinner. In all my 40+ years riding and racing, I've never heard of anyone resurfacing a motorcycle rotor.

2 cents,
Dave
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post #8 of 30 Old 11-13-2018, 10:42 AM
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Minimum brake disc thickness Front & Rear is 4.5mm (may be stamped into disc), original thickness is 4.8-5.1mm so not much to play with. Check machine shop prices! The Kawasaki Concours 'A' series & early ZX10's occasionally needed truing in 1st year under warranty. Don't recall the price tags.

From a cost vs benefit view, the EBC 320mm rotor, adaptor and pads is hard to beat. And they Look Cool!
But a barely used OEM Gen 2 disc from ebay may be dirt cheap?
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #9 of 30 Old 11-13-2018, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Rotor

Thanks for input guys. I did get it surfaced for $23.50
Now it's just under the min. (0.176 -- 0.178) I plan to ferret out a new one for next summer.
The bike is up for the winter, and I won't be doing much riding for a while.
It didn't look at all warped. The guy doing the job said it was nice and flat.

Ageing Gracefully



2017 Yamaha XT250
1990 Honda NX250 (Green/White)
2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 (Orange & White )

My KLR Page..http://www.powers31.info/2011_KLR650.htm

Mod's to KLR:
Power socket, L.E.D. Battery Indicator, Camera bag holder
Custom Saddlebag frames .
Louder horns, Firstgear Onyx tail bag.
Custom Aluminum Skid Plate.
Cut down seat with Custom pad.
Go Pro Camera mount.
Doo-Hicky

Last edited by larry31; 11-13-2018 at 07:51 PM.
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post #10 of 30 Old 11-14-2018, 06:13 AM
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A pane of glass will confirm the flatness.

Under minimum rotor thickness? Needless risk, IMHO; YMMV. In fact, were this scheme applied to a rotor on an automobile in my state, the vehicle would FAIL safety inspection. Probably, fail motorcycle inspection also, were the inspectors diligent enough to research minimum value and measure rotor thickness.

Oversize diameter rotor with caliper bracket a significant improvement, again: IMHO; YMMV!

Last edited by Damocles; 11-14-2018 at 06:18 AM.
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