Old Gen2 KLR's bought with very low mileage - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 17 Old 11-27-2018, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Old Gen2 KLR's bought with very low mileage

As the purchaser of a 2008 KLR in 2017 with 200 miles, I am concerned with the potential for known to this forum mechanical issues with these motorcycles.
I would be interested in other owners who bought similar Gen2 KLR's with low mileage, the issues they experienced with the known imperfections in these early Gen 2's.
Most important to me,at this point in my ownership, is approximately when do these early Gen 2's start burning oil. Also, what percentage eventually did or will burn oil.
And if, feeling generous, specify which fixes are considered mandatory, highly recommended or go ahead if you want to level modifications. If this is addressed elsewhere, please leave links. Thankyou All!
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post #2 of 17 Old 11-27-2018, 11:33 PM
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How much have you ridden it so far and what's the result at this point?

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post #3 of 17 Old 11-28-2018, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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I have ridden from 200 to 1800 miles. I changed the oil and filter. HID headlight bulbs, original dim like all halogens. The brakes seemed weak and replaced pads, much better. Have ridden ever since with no problems, that I know about observed. I bought the eagle mike doohickey kit, yet to be installed.
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post #4 of 17 Old 11-28-2018, 11:13 AM
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Sounds like you're doing pretty good then without any real issues. Just ride it and stick to the maintenance schedule.
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1986 Honda TLR 200 Reflex
2002 Ducati Monster 750S < -- For Sale
2005 Kawi KLR 650
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post #5 of 17 Old 11-28-2018, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Digging deeper, if the early Gen 2's are prone to burning oil due to out of round lower cylinder ware, should a 685 be done now while ware is at a minimum compared to doing the upgrade with all the other worn parts possibly because of the cylinder problem. And I like the response of ride it and change the oil.&#x1f60a;
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post #6 of 17 Old 11-28-2018, 01:36 PM
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No advantage to doing the 685 right away IMO; the bore shape tends to stabilize over time so it's probably better to wait otherwise the sleeve may futher warp after the overbore and you'd need to do it again....besides, you may be one of the lucky '08 owners whos bike doesn't develop an excessive oil burning problem.

Other than the piston and rings, there are no other parts that wear because of an oil control issue and they get replaced anyhow.

I would ride it, maintain it and keep a close eye on oil levels and consumption.....and I'd add a Thermobob, but I think we've covered that one! LOL

Cheers,
Dave
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post #7 of 17 Old 11-28-2018, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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What's a thermo bob? &#x1f60a;. Thankyou, for confirming my game plan.

My Thermo- Bob will be installed with doohickey swap. Heading to cold climate will force me in doors for a while. Great opportunity to get all that is needed done.
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post #8 of 17 Old 11-28-2018, 07:38 PM
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My 2008 worked up to using a quart in 1000 miles at 20,000 miles. The dealer honed and re-ringed it in warranty. At 40,000 it was doing it again so I installed a 685 piston and it has been good to 100,000 miles.

Another common gen2 problem is wiring rub-through. The most likely place for this is at the right front of the tank where a wiring bundle runs along a horizontal support bar. Remove the tank and you will see it, Reposition the bundle so the tank can not rub on it.
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post #9 of 17 Old 11-28-2018, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, very helpful. It is a big advantage to have ten years knowledge of potential problems day 1. I am gathering signs of future problems hoping for some of them not to have. Being aware and possibly prevent some my goal. Again thankyou.
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post #10 of 17 Old 11-29-2018, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoMotor View Post
My 2008 worked up to using a quart in 1000 miles at 20,000 miles. The dealer honed and re-ringed it in warranty. At 40,000 it was doing it again so I installed a 685 piston and it has been good to 100,000 miles.

Another common gen2 problem is wiring rub-through. The most likely place for this is at the right front of the tank where a wiring bundle runs along a horizontal support bar. Remove the tank and you will see it, Reposition the bundle so the tank can not rub on it.
In regards to this wiring bundle between the fuel tank and the coolant recovery reservoir bracket. MOVE the wire bundle from behind the bracket to in-front and above the bracket. Get that bundle out of harms way. Kawasaki should have never routed it between there.

Remove the 2 inner mounting bolts of the reservoir. Loosen the lower bracket bolt. Remove the top bracket bolt & tip the bracket & reservoir away from the frame. Push the wire bundle between the frame & the bracket. One will need to reposition bendable metal tab from behind the horn to above the horn and re-do a couple of zip ties. One needs to prevent the re-positioned wire bundle from pushing on the horn or the horn will be 'muted'.
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