Battery / Pig tail ? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 8 Old 12-10-2018, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Franklin, TN
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Battery / Pig tail ?

I'd like to add a pigtail to the + terminal on my battery so that I can put a battery tender on it without having to remove the plastic on both sides and the seat. I'm thinking of just adding a wire to the + terminal and running it to the left side of the bike and just zip tying it up neatly. The big thing is that I'll need to cover the end of the wire with something.. rubber? tape? . I mean electrical tape would work, but I'd like to have something a bit more elegant to keep it insulated and secure when not in use.
Does anyone have any experience or ideas on the best way to do this?

Also, what the heck is up with getting the seat back on? I was able to get it off somehow without a lot of trouble, even with my rear rack and case on the bike, but I am having a hell of a time getting it to go back on. I see the tabs on the front of the seat, one u-shaped one for slightly below the tank and one that slides onto the one on the tank itself, but as it sits now, I may have to take my rear rack off and pannier frame too to get the seat back on. Any tricks to this?

Thanks so much,
Doc Holladay
Franklin, TN
2012 KLR
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-10-2018, 10:14 AM
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Get a Battery Tender pig tail. It has a rubber cap on it. You could also just zip tie the wire to the frame and the terminals will not touch anything. That is what I did. Amazon has them. A motorcycle dealer might have one also.

Not sure what the problems is with the seat. I just slide mine on in the front tab, put a little pressure on the center of the seat and keep sliding it on the bike until it clears the rack. Just make sure you did not leave any tools under there. Been there done that!
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-10-2018, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much. That's what I'll do. As far as the seat goes, lol.. I've done that before too, and unfortunately there's no tools sitting in there lol. The bike came with aftermarket rear rack and Tusk panniers, and all I can figure is that the aftermarket stuff that's on there is crowding the back of the seat too much to be able to get the right angle on it to slide those front tabs in there. That's kind of what prompted the idea to do something with a pig-tail. If it's this much of a pain to deal with the seat, I need a better way to keep the battery fresh lol

Best,
DH
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-20-2018, 03:15 PM
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For what its worth, I found that dealing with the seat is much easier if you do away with the bolts, and hold it on with some velcro. I haven't had seat bolts in mine for several years. Sure makes gettin' to the battery lots easier!

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2009 KLR, blue
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-20-2018, 05:59 PM
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I install a quick-disconnect battery tender cable on every motorcycle; specifically the two-pin type with the blade fuze and the cap over the connector. That way not only can I hook up a charger when needed, the two pin works for most compact air compressors, including my Slime Powersport. I see on Amazon, Tender Part No. 081-0069-6 with an 18" cord is only $5.12. They're also at walmart and virtually every auto parts store.

On the seat, you may have something interfering with the lower tongue. I have a 2016 Cali model and the two vent hoses run through that round hole at the tail of the tank and then right into where the tongue goes. They get in my way. That or there just may be something else under there getting in your way. Also, I don't have anything on the back other than the stock rack and that actually gets in the way of the seat install. I literally have to bend the seat as I push forward to position it into the tank and frame slots and then drop the back down into place.
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-21-2018, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docholladay7 View Post
.....what the heck is up with getting the seat back on?...
I always find that if something will not go together, if I walk away, when I come back it falls into place. It helps to hold your mouth just right too. If you fight something metal, it wins. Just wiggle it and give it a little tickle.

Also,,, you got some good advice on the battery charger connector but I'd only add "Fuse it" to the advice given. The fuse should be as close to the battery as reasonable. 15 amp sounds about right in a waterproof fuse holder. That way if anything ever goes wrong, you're protected.

A power outlet that you install on the dash can be used to "back-feed" power and charge the battery if you wire it up "hot with key off". Then you get the benefit of using the outlet when riding. Just keep the charging amps low.

Search E-Bay for "12 volt power outlet".

“Take the risk of thinking for yourself , much more happiness , truth, beauty, and wisdom will come to you that way.” Hitchens

Last edited by Toney; 12-21-2018 at 07:49 AM.
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-21-2018, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toney View Post
I always find that if something will not go together, if I walk away, when I come back it falls into place. It helps to hold your mouth just right too. If you fight something metal, it wins. Just wiggle it and give it a little tickle.".
It's your subconscious working on the problem. Same as if you "slept on it and handled it in the morning"

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post #8 of 8 Old 12-23-2018, 11:26 AM
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I realize the OP has probably already addressed his issue but I thought I would mention that the last time I wanted a charging pigtail (about a year ago) I picked one up at local O'reilly auto parts store. It kept me from paying shipping and didn't have to wait for delivery. The ring terminals were a little larger (for auto batteries) but that issue was easily remedied.
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