Why Is the Airbox Vent Tube Melted to My Exhaust? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 25 Old 12-13-2018, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
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Why Is the Airbox Vent Tube Melted to My Exhaust?

The title pretty much sums it up. Tonight I was poking around on the bike and noticed some oil on the top side of the plastic fender that sits between the rear tire and the body of the bike. Looking closer, I noticed that there was a clear hose that seemed to be fused against my exhaust. I traced this tube down and found its end hanging down by the rear brake lever, with a little plug that seems to be stopping up a bit of oil. Quick research suggests this is the drain line for the airbox.

I'm thinking the brainiacs that set the bike up probably left this line touching the exhaust, and that it melted and has been sort of dripping air filter oil on that fender. I'm also curious about a much shorter black tube with what appears to be a crimped end (right-hand arrow in second pic), hanging down above the fender (i.e., not tracing down anywhere near as far as the clear line, but starting from up in the same general area). This shorter tube also looks wet to me, so perhaps this is actually the source of the oil on the fender… Any ideas?




(can't post images, as I'm just getting started in the forum , but you can get these pics by their URLs…)

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 12-13-2018 at 10:53 AM. Reason: embed photos
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post #2 of 25 Old 12-13-2018, 09:44 AM
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OK sorry for the brevity but this damn tablet has deleted my last two responses before I could post.

The long hose with the plug is the clean side drain.....if air gets in this one it is bad for your engine. luckily the hose has a tiny filter in the top.....real risk is if it gets pulled off entirely. Frankly i think its a poor design; none of my real dirtbikes had or needed a clean side drain.....so i capped it off on my 2001. my 2000 still has the drain tube and i check it often

the "duckbill" is the dirty side drain - don't worry about that one

dave
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post #3 of 25 Old 12-13-2018, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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When you say "clean side" and "dirty side" here, we are talking about the airbox, right?
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post #4 of 25 Old 12-13-2018, 10:20 PM
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Everything downstream of the air cleaner is considered the clean side. Everything upstream is the dirty side. And yes, it is in relation to the airbox.

However, anything that would allow dirty air into the intake anywhere up to the valves would be considered to be a contamination of the clean side. that could be a holed intake tract, carb boot, etc.
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post #5 of 25 Old 12-14-2018, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so, looking at Partzilla I'm seeing the part # for the hose is 92192A.

Should I be good to go if I just order the tube, or do I need to also get a bracket/filter/something else?

Also, since this will take like a week to get here and the oil seems to be spreading as I ride, I'd like to know if there's a better way to fix this as I wait. For example, can I cut the tube up higher and insert the plug there for a few days? Or perhaps better, can I replace this tube with some regular 8x12mm tubing from the hardware store instead of even ordering it from Partzilla?

And finally, when I re-install, what is the best way to keep this from happening again? I didn't see any guide holes for this tube (there is another tube hanging down in much the same area [think it's from the battery] and this one has a guide hole in a panel under there), so should I perhaps wrap a loose zip tie around it and the aforementioned battery tube to lure this one away from the exhaust?
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post #6 of 25 Old 12-14-2018, 07:30 PM
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For lack of a more lackluster description, it is just aquarium hose. The hardware store hose will work just fine.

And yes, you could cut it off and move the plug up.

You could follow Dave's example and just block it off right at the airbox with an appropriate vacuum nipple or screw protector. I like screw protectors because they don't degrade as some of the black rubber/neoprene ones do.

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post #7 of 25 Old 12-14-2018, 07:57 PM
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One could remove the brake reservoir to make easier access. Then cut the clear hose to about 2-4 inches of length and insert the cap plug and attach to the forward drain nipple as it is supposed to be.
IF you ever turn your bike Up-side down you might need to access the drain plug to drain the hose & clean side air box. Otherwise just look at the hose & plug a couple times a year to confirm it is empty & still there with its plug.

Excess air filter oil from a freshly re-serviced Oiled Foam Air Filter coming out of the duck-bill flapper valve on the Dirty side air box is Perfectly Normal. Many owners use the stickey foam air filter oils to help avoid the drippage.
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post #8 of 25 Old 12-14-2018, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Excess air filter oil from a freshly re-serviced Oiled Foam Air Filter coming out of the duck-bill flapper valve on the Dirty side air box is Perfectly Normal. Many owners use the stickey foam air filter oils to help avoid the drippage.
Curious minds want to know… Is it normal for this oil to get on the swingarm as well? 'Cause this morning I looked and it's gettin kinda speckled.
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post #9 of 25 Old 12-15-2018, 09:52 AM
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Curious minds want to know… Is it normal for this oil to get on the swingarm as well? 'Cause this morning I looked and it's gettin kinda speckled.
samuel, If the speckles are on the LH arm, that is chain assembly grease or chain lube, depending on how new your bike is.

There have been one or two people who have not squeezed enough oil out of their freshly re-serviced air filter and a day or two later post that their left rear wheel bearings appear to be leaking oil.
It was just the excess air filter oil dripping on the rear inner fender, then dripping on the swingarm, running across to the rubber slider, then down and under the arm, to finally drip on their garage floor.

One could attach a long hose to the Dirty Air Box drain and route it down to where the Clean Air Box drain used to be, but do not plug it.

While we are down here with the drain hoses, do you see that black hose tie which corrals the hoses? It stabs into a hole in the frame pipe. There is also a hole in the frame pipe on the Left side of the bike.
We need to remove that hose tie and then use silicone RTV sealant (or screws) to plug those holes to keep the water out. When water gets in those holes it rusts the suspension pivot bolt and then when one wants/needs to remove it it turns into a REAL Fight!!

The steel hose guide on the top of the swingarm is all the hose guide that is needed.
One can read more about the 2 holes & suspension servicing over on Toms Souperdoo site, https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20th...-zerk-fittings

ps, Your existing melted hose may be long enough to cap the forward nipple quite short and still be long enough to drain the rearward nipple.
As I remember the factory left that hose hanging down in the weeds & rocks lower than necessary anyways.

pdwestman
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Last edited by pdwestman; 12-15-2018 at 10:04 AM. Reason: ps added
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post #10 of 25 Old 12-15-2018, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you pdwestman, that's some good info. I'm a bit confused about the specific locations of the different tubes we're talking about here, but my plan is to tear into this tomorrow and replace the burnt hose, at which point I'll make a diagram of the hose connections and existing hardware so we can directly reference what we're talking about replacing/rerouting. I'll buy some extra tubing at the hardware store, and then when I put it back together I can route whatever, wherever.

I read Tom's article about the zerk fittings and greasing the swingarm bolts earlier today and it sounds like a cool idea. I like the idea of preventing the rust before the bike has even been driven in the rain. Dismantling and greasing was already on the list, so now I know a bit more about what that will entail.

Thanks to all for their input!
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