Doohickey question - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Doohickey question

Hello all. It has been six months since Mr. Schmitz walked me through the procedure. I was wondering if there are any adjustments or something to check. GoMotors story reminded me that my 2009 with 11,500 miles (I bought it with 2700 miles in April '18 ) may not be as bulletproof as I think. I can imagine things going wrong for me when I'm miles from anything. By the way, I am still burning oil after the oil mods, at about a quart per 1000 miles, more or less. Besides the inconvenience of adding oil, are there any problems I should look for? Bike is running great(besides the oil) and I don't really want to put a 685 in unless HIGHLY recommended by you gentlemen here. Thanks
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post #2 of 20 Old 01-16-2019, 07:30 PM
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Other problems

As far as burning oil. After doing a oil change, try keeping it under 5,000 rpm.
My 2011 used a little oil, at first, when I would run over 5,000 rpm.
Since then, I have kept it under, except for passing etc. No prolonged running over that rpm.
I have over 28K on it now, and don't burn any oil, in my 3,000 mile oil change interval.

I know some have to ride at that speed, but here in N.H. I can cruse the highway at 70 mph=5,000rpm, and am good with that speed.
I try to ride as many back roads as possible. More to see.

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post #3 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamwalker View Post
Hello all. It has been six months since Mr. Schmitz walked me through the procedure. I was wondering if there are any adjustments or something to check. GoMotors story reminded me that my 2009 with 11,500 miles (I bought it with 2700 miles in April '18 ) may not be as bulletproof as I think. I can imagine things going wrong for me when I'm miles from anything. By the way, I am still burning oil after the oil mods, at about a quart per 1000 miles, more or less. Besides the inconvenience of adding oil, are there any problems I should look for? Bike is running great(besides the oil) and I don't really want to put a 685 in unless HIGHLY recommended by you gentlemen here. Thanks
Are you saying that you Have Replaced the Doo-Hickey and installed the Torsion Spring & are now wondering if it needs to be periodically adjusted?

And exactly what all oil mods did you perform? Is the oil consumption less than before the mods were performed? I do say "may help", but no guarantees.
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post #4 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 02:25 PM
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Paul's mods can help reduce oil consumption, particularly with the usual "sustained high rpm oil burning"......but nothing is going to help oil consumption due to a bad ring/irregular bore issue other than reboring the cylinder properly and installing the appropriate piston/rings......like Eaglemike's 685 kit, which I HIGHLY RECOMMEND! LOL - sorry, couldn't resist


Dave
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post #5 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
Paul's mods can help reduce oil consumption, particularly with the usual "sustained high rpm oil burning"......but nothing is going to help oil consumption due to a bad ring/irregular bore issue other than reboring the cylinder properly and installing the appropriate piston/rings......like Eaglemike's 685 kit, which I HIGHLY RECOMMEND! LOL - sorry, couldn't resist


Dave
I believe Tom and I did 3 of 4 (maybe 4) of Paul's recommended mods. The oil is not an issue for me, I check before every ride. That was sharing information as I haven't been on here for a while. Yes sir, I am asking if there are any adjustments I should make to doohickey. I apologize for blending a question with a statement. Here in So Cal 5000 rpm just keeps up with the flow of traffic. 16 tooth sprocket gives me 80mph at 52-5300 rpms Thanks Gents
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post #6 of 20 Old 01-17-2019, 07:12 PM
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We did the banjo bolts and the crank restriction in the cap.

It may be an oil burner like mine was. That usually comes on after 10-15K miles, I think.

The doo needs to be adjusted every 5000ish miles. I do mine at oil change.

Tom [email protected]

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post #7 of 20 Old 01-18-2019, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by beamwalker View Post
I believe Tom and I did 3 of 4 (maybe 4) of Paul's recommended mods. The oil is not an issue for me, I check before every ride. That was sharing information as I haven't been on here for a while. Yes sir, I am asking if there are any adjustments I should make to doohickey. I apologize for blending a question with a statement. Here in So Cal 5000 rpm just keeps up with the flow of traffic. 16 tooth sprocket gives me 80mph at 52-5300 rpms Thanks Gents
Ok, just wanted to inquire as I couldn't remember how many of the pdw mods were performed. One might change down to the next smaller crankshaft orifice size. #43 is 2.26mm the #44 is 2.18mm.

How many miles have you put on it since installing the EM Doo-hickey & Torsion spring? And as Tom said, yes it needs to be periodically adjusted.
I encourage people to remove the 2 plastic plugs on the LH engine case and using a 19mm socket & wrench rotate the engine CCW to the TDC mark on the flywheel to get all of the chain slack & the weights on the proper side of the system so the Doo-hickey adjustment can remove ALL of the slack.

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post #8 of 20 Old 01-18-2019, 12:48 PM
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@pdwestman,

What is currently the smallest orifice you'd recommend on the crank?

Tom [email protected]

“If I wasn't hard, I wouldn't be alive. If I couldn't ever be gentle, I wouldn't deserve to be alive.” -Philip Marlowe

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post #9 of 20 Old 01-18-2019, 08:10 PM
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@pdwestman,

What is currently the smallest orifice you'd recommend on the crank?
I'll have to suggest the #44 / 2.18mm / 0.086inch as the smallest that I'd recommend. My BSL oil analysis was the cleanest while using it. And as you all may recall those are all very clean reports for a KLR.

When I changed down to the #46 / 2.06mm / 0.081 inch the next BSL oil analysis showed a rise in the wearable metals (on a 3000 mile run), but my numbers were still better than the numbers for the BSL Universal Averages numbers for all KLR650's & all of their various oils used for their 2000 mile UA runs.

I can only guess that the slight rise of my wearable metals was Iron from the top rod end, piston pin & cylinder / Aluminum from the piston & Copper from the bottom rod thrust washers. Because most all of the other parts with-in the engine should have gotten a wee bit more oil.

I re-installed the #44 / 2.18mm orifice after getting that 4th report back & I still want about another 2000 miles on this oil before another oil change & report. This will be a 5000 mile run.

pdwestman
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post #10 of 20 Old 01-18-2019, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I'll have to suggest the #44 / 2.18mm / 0.086inch as the smallest that I'd recommend. My BSL oil analysis was the cleanest while using it. And as you all may recall those are all very clean reports for a KLR.



When I changed down to the #46 / 2.06mm / 0.081 inch the next BSL oil analysis showed a rise in the wearable metals (on a 3000 mile run), but my numbers were still better than the numbers for the BSL Universal Averages numbers for all KLR650's & all of their various oils used for their 2000 mile UA runs.



I can only guess that the slight rise of my wearable metals was Iron from the top rod end, piston pin & cylinder / Aluminum from the piston & Copper from the bottom rod thrust washers. Because most all of the other parts with-in the engine should have gotten a wee bit more oil.



I re-installed the #44 / 2.18mm orifice after getting that 4th report back & I still want about another 2000 miles on this oil before another oil change & report. This will be a 5000 mile run.
Drawing a blank at the moment, but what was the "default" size that was recommended in Tom's write up? Whatever it was, that is what I did to mine.

Sammy

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