Lubricating Steering Stem Bearing and Swing Arm - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 31 Old 01-22-2019, 12:06 PM
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Matthew, Take note that the steering stem adjustment nut Torque is Only 43 inch pounds / 4.9N-m. That is barely tighter than your bare fingers can twist it. So basically any pair of pliers will easily give the adjustment nut "just a hair more" torque than your fingers did.
If your bike is like mine was, the adjustment nut will tend to re-loosen when swinging back & forth thru the arc when the top yoke, fork legs and top nut aren't installed.

So I've found it kind of worked best for me to torque/snug the adjustment nut up with the lower triple turned to the right. Insert RH leg and snug the lower bolt. Install the top clamp & top nut. Slip the LH leg in and snug the lower bolt, without allowing the steering to turn. Then torque the top nut. This takes a 'hair more' slack out of the adjustment nut threads & LOCKS the adjustment nut into position. Then you can swing it back & forth to confirm that it is not too snug with-out the adjustment nut self-loosening.
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post #12 of 31 Old 01-22-2019, 02:07 PM
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Bel Ray is fine for both. I've never bothered with the special steering nut wrench; as Paul said it doesn't need much force

Dave
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post #13 of 31 Old 01-23-2019, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks again for the advice guys. I believe it will certainly help. that sort of info it not in the Clymer Manual, only experience can give you

Thanks guys
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post #14 of 31 Old 01-25-2019, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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Hello again guys

I have a possibly stupid question. Perhaps more stupid if some of the replies to this post are taken into account.

My question is: How risky is it to postpone the head stem and swing arm lubrication to about 1200 miles beyond the scheduled mileage?


The reason i am thinking of postponing the lubrication of these parts is to align it with the Easter long weekend. My bike is a daily ride, and I ride it to work everyday. I am worried that it may take more than a weekend to complete the work, for me anyway. I don't own a car. I could borrow a car from one of my sons.

I ride about 125 miles per week. My ride is a suburban commute.

What do you think guys?

Thanks again.
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post #15 of 31 Old 01-25-2019, 06:07 AM
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I postponed doing mine for 35,000 miles/58,000 km and it doesn't seem to have hurt anything.
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post #16 of 31 Old 01-25-2019, 10:36 AM
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not a concern; for some people 1200 miles is a days ride. .......I'd wager that the vast majority of KLR's NEVER have the head bearings serviced.....I'm not saying that's a good thing, but I bet it's true.


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post #17 of 31 Old 01-25-2019, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
I postponed doing mine for 35,000 miles/58,000 km and it doesn't seem to have hurt anything.
Well, other than that lower suspension rocker shaft bolt being even a little harder to Remove, eh Tom?

timberfoot, May I suggest that you inject a very liberal dosing of penetrating oil/knocker loose thru those 2 stupid holes in the lower frame pipe now and allow it to start doing its job.
Another 1200 miles is of zero consequence in the grand scheme of things.

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post #18 of 31 Old 01-25-2019, 12:49 PM
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I did exaggerate some. The swingarm pivot came out at about 15K miles, got lubed, went back in, and came out again at 30K miles. It was corroded, but not badly.

The whole suspension dealio got swapped for a Gen 1 set-up at about 20K miles and lubed and came out again at 30K miles for another lube and zerks. The head bearings were at 35K.

I'm guessing @timberfoot is at 15K miles. Good advice to shoot something into the two stupid holes.

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post #19 of 31 Old 01-26-2019, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
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Hello Guys

Tom, your are right, I am at 15000 Miles.

I know that you guys are experienced and knowledgeable people, certainly more so than me. However, I have to ask, if I squirt some stuff into those holes, that I only just found out existed, will it dissolve the grease that is already in there?

Thanks again again guys

Cheers

Matthew
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post #20 of 31 Old 01-26-2019, 10:35 AM
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Matthew, That is only a hollow cavity and being as the holes are Not On the bottoms they collect some water. Air them out, squirt some knocker loose in & put a blob of RTV over the holes.

The potentially rusty portion of the bolt must pass thru the bearing sleeve in the center rocker. The needle bearings ride on the outside of the sleeve, not the bolt itself.

ps, I personally do Not fill those 2 cavities full of grease when reassembling. I only grease the needle bearings, sleeves, seals & bolts. And plug those 2 stupid holes to keep any water from getting in on the bolt.
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Last edited by pdwestman; 01-26-2019 at 10:41 AM. Reason: ps added
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