Drive Chain Questions - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 36 Old 02-08-2019, 07:06 PM
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The riveted link being superior to a clip type master link is in my opinion hype. They probably stated that in the advertising for some crazy liability reason.
If your chain is adjusted properly and running true the clip will stay on until you decide to take it off. The key is the proper orientation of the clip. The open end must face the opposite direction of drive, or on the top run the open end must face to the rear. Put it on backwards and inertia could unseat a weak clip. I much prefer a clip type as it makes removing the chain easy if I want to clean it off the bike. Just keep a few spare clips in your kit and if you suspect you may have sprung one removing or installing it then use a new one.
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post #12 of 36 Old 02-08-2019, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the Advice PaddyO
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post #13 of 36 Old 02-08-2019, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaddyD View Post
The riveted link being superior to a clip type master link is in my opinion hype. They probably stated that in the advertising for some crazy liability reason.
If your chain is adjusted properly and running true the clip will stay on until you decide to take it off. The key is the proper orientation of the clip. The open end must face the opposite direction of drive, or on the top run the open end must face to the rear. Put it on backwards and inertia could unseat a weak clip. I much prefer a clip type as it makes removing the chain easy if I want to clean it off the bike. Just keep a few spare clips in your kit and if you suspect you may have sprung one removing or installing it then use a new one.
As I stated above, I have used clip type links for 150,000 miles on KLRs. I did this because it would be easier to remove the chain in the woods if i had to. I never had to but, I did lose 4 or 5 clips in that time, which makes me nervous.

As I said, I think I will start using the rivet type which I can get ground off at any muffler shop, mechanic shop, motorcycle shop,...... or in the woods with my file. I'll carry a clip type as backup until I get to a shop with a rivet tool. No need to carry the tool.
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post #14 of 36 Old 02-09-2019, 03:46 AM
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Why not just safety wire the clip in place?

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post #15 of 36 Old 02-09-2019, 05:20 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmm,

I think I will use a rivet link. I am convinced that the clip link is adequate for a KLR650. The experience of some of the posters on this thread proves that. However, I believe that the rivet link is stronger. Also, I have access to a quality chain tool, and I have a rivet link, so I will rivet the chain.

I suppose Gomotor's experience has finally swayed me... I will carry the clip one with me on journeys though.

Thank all for your valuable and friendly advice

Cheers

Timberfoot
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post #16 of 36 Old 02-09-2019, 09:59 AM
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As far a chain strength goes, that is only dependant on the strength of the steel rivets and the link plates. Not the type of final connector!

When made of the same grades of steel, a factory riveted Endless, consumer riveted or consumer clipped style 'master-link' will all support the same loading and have the same durability/life.

If the final 'master-link' side plate is a very tough Pressed Fit and the chain runs straight & true & doesn't snag on things, technically the master link probably wouldn't even need to be riveted or clipped!

RK Chains usually have a very tight fitting final side plate.
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post #17 of 36 Old 02-11-2019, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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Hello

Well I've put my chain on.
It seems that the shop I bought the chain from sold me a clip style link when I asked for a rivet link. So, I ended up using a clip link after all, and I still have the link that came with the chain...

Thanks for your advice guys

Matthew
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post #18 of 36 Old 02-11-2019, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timberfoot View Post
Hello

Well I've put my chain on.
It seems that the shop I bought the chain from sold me a clip style link when I asked for a rivet link. So, I ended up using a clip link after all, and I still have the link that came with the chain...

Thanks for your advice guys

Matthew
And is the new chain adjusted loosely enough to gently push the bottom run Up to touch the rear tip of the rubber under-slider?

pdwestman
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post #19 of 36 Old 02-12-2019, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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Yes indeed Pdwestman. I took that advice, don't worry about that

Cheers

Matthew
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post #20 of 36 Old 02-14-2019, 01:32 PM
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I too have run clip type master links on mc over the last 50 yrs. correct orientation, no protruding bolts from chain guard or otherwise that could get close to the chain while in motion ( check when leaning over too), and all has been well. Ive replaced many a drive chain in my day. On some bikes if the chain comes apart it may ball up and bust your engine cases ( Honda CB 750 comes to mind). I had (1) chain come off, and that was my fault. So- I have complete confidence in masterlink type chains ( of good quality).
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