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KLX Carb kit question

9K views 40 replies 13 participants last post by  Hvymax 
#1 ·
I notice that the handy spec sheet that Tom updated yesterday has the part numbers for the KLX needle, collar & clip.
Can anybody suggest the jet size required considering the following.
2106 KLR
Air box de-snorkled but otherwise untouched. Std air filter
Std exhaust.
Altitude Sea Level.
I have no objection to going to Eagle Mike but it is un-likely he will ship to Australia as Most U.S. businesses don't, and I should be able to get all 4 parts from the local Kawasaki dealer I assume.

I am not assuming a big increase in power rather a better mixture resulting in slightly better fuel economy & power than I currently get with the 22 cent mod.

Regards Grant
 
#2 · (Edited)
My Canadian model 2017 KLR came with a 145 main jet. I could not find a KLX kit in Canada at the time
so I ordered a KLX needle and clip and a 142 main jet from Kawasaki. I used a washer I got from a hardware store
to shim the needle. I also removed the snorkel.
I am 65 meters above sea level.

The biggest difference I noticed was better throttle response and more mid range torque and it runs a lot smoother.
It was definitely worth the small investment and time.

The fuel mileage did not change noticeably either I am burning 5.04 liters per 100km.

Terry
 
#32 ·
142 KH main, 2nd clip position (no shims under) stock pilot 2 turns out on the fuel screw

Dave/QUOTE]
I recently installed the KLX jet kit myself. EM's instructions were great however I have since adjusted mine as well. I kept the EM 142 jet
, needle on 2nd slot with e-clip. No washer below the needle. 2 and 1/4 turns on air/fuel screw. This improved my gas mileage since my original installation settings. I was getting 33.6mpg!! Now back into the mid 40s. 3650ft elevation. FMF Q4 pipe, snorkelectomy.
 
#4 ·
I notice that the handy spec sheet that Tom updated yesterday has the part numbers for the KLX needle, collar & clip.
Can anybody suggest the jet size required considering the following.

2106 KLR

Air box de-snorkled but otherwise untouched. Std air filter
Std exhaust.
Altitude Sea Level.
I have no objection to going to Eagle Mike but it is un-likely he will ship to Australia as Most U.S. businesses don't, and I should be able to get all 4 parts from the local Kawasaki dealer I assume.

I am not assuming a big increase in power rather a better mixture resulting in slightly better fuel economy & power than I currently get with the 22 cent mod.

Regards Grant
Are you "Back from the Future"? And they resurrected carburetion? :)
 
#5 ·
When your flux capacitor breaks all you have to fall back on is the old CVK.
 
#6 ·
Thanks Terry & Dave might be a couple of weeks before I get the parts & fit them, but at least I can proceed with confidence that I'm not going to screw up the mixture & have it running like a pig.
Thanks Paul & Tom for the chuckle.

Regards, Grant.
 
#7 ·
Grant,

Dave's recipe is spot-on, tried and true, it will work great.

For future reference, should you make any changes, here are the instructions that Schnitz Racing provides: http://schnitzracing.com/manuals/klr-klx.pdf

Eagle Manufacturing has a similar set of instructions, but I don't know of a link to them.
 
#8 ·
Thanks Tom,
no excuses for having any problems now. Hardest part will be if I have to adjust the mixture screw. Australian models have that stupid coolant line running directly below it. They don't plug the mixture screw off just put the coolant line in the way.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Grant S,
Even without the carb heater in place the standard fuel mixture screw is in-accessible without twisting the carb CCW for access. The starter motor is too close for any tool. That is why some owners install an extended mixture screw.

Many Australian owners apparently do eliminate the carb heater & plumbing at 1st opportunity I recon. But they don't realize that the basic plumbing can be put to Better Use!
And surely it is not too hard to drain & refill the cooling system. Skid plate removed. Drain on the Bottom of the water pump into a clean pan.
The coolant can be filtered thru a paper towel or coffee filter & re-used even.

But What do I mean by better use, you ask?

How about converting the basic plumbing into a radiator By-Pass system for quicker warm-ups from cold starts & more consistent running temps in the cooler mornings and winter months? With absolutely no detectable adverse effect on the upper temps.

All one needs to do is run the coolant hose from the cylinder head thermostat fitting down past the exhaust pipe to the water pump housing using the shortest route possible and secured away from the exhaust pipe. And eliminate all of the rest of the carb heater plumbing. Done. Sound simple enough?
This will help to bring the entire engine temp up to 160f/70c quicker & stabilize it there.

Now one could even improve upon that. If you have the tools to install larger hose barbs into the thermostat housing & water pump housing to allow the use of 1/4 inch or 5/16 inch hose.

OH, Oh, oh! Grant, does this bike still have an Un-Modified LAM throttle slide installed? Top speed of only about 100kph?

ps, This might be a good thread to duplicate over in the Australian sub-section.
 
#9 ·
I can't figure out why Kawasaki thinks that the Australian models need carb heat. It would see to be something that would regularly be taken off.
 
#11 ·
No it does not have the LAMs throttle slide installed. It is sitting on a shelf in the shed. Very dangerous trying to overtake with that set up.
That was the first good info I found on this forum ( the Harley slide part number). Will definitely have a look at the radiator by-pass idea when I am doing the Carb needle in a couple of weeks.
Just as an aside. I did encounter cold temps on last years outback trip. We had -6 deg.C at Arkaroola & -4 deg. C at Yunta Was more worried about trying to keep warm in the tent than how the bike ran when we were heading off to be honest.
 
#12 ·
I have a NEP Throttle Lock on my bike. I have ridden many miles with first one hand & then the other tucked under the carb, behind the cylinder.
With feet on the rear pegs one gets a little warmer air on the knees & up the thighs. :)

Do NOT attempt to hold onto the muffler at a road-side stop to heat your Leather gloves & hands.

Fresh off the highway, it'll melt the stitching right out of the seams! ;)
 
#13 ·
I would not touch the muffler for quite a while after the bike has stopped running. On that same trip I partially melted the indicator housing when the mounting screws came loose & it rested on the muffler on the way from the Bourke & Wills dig tree back to Imnnaminka.
 
#16 ·
Ordered the parts today. Bad news is that the clip 92037-1401 is currently un-available & on back order.
Anyone know the needle groove diameter?, I assume I could pick up a suitable E-Clip elsewhere while I am waiting for the other parts to arrive.

thanks,
Grant
 
#19 ·
The 92037-1401 Keihin e-clip is 0.012inch / .3mm thick but I don't have a KLX needle to even attempt to measure the depth of the grooves.
The jaws of my dial caliper won't stand a chance of reaching into the bottom of a groove.
Using my eyeballs to sight across the jaws of my calipers to the tips of the E which must spread some to be retained around the base diameter, I'll suggest 1.8mm,

The Honda shops are your best shot for this clip because all of the dirt bikes & most of atv's using Keihin carbs will use this clip!! Motocross & Enduro riders probably loose them on a regular basis. When I ordered this bag of 10 in 05/2007 they retailed for $2.65 usd each. I've got 3 left, but I'm in Wyoming USA.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Well, that was fun and a bit fussy. The groove is just about the same width as the thickness of the blades on my blade mic and, with the radius in the bottom of the groove, I couldn't read the diameter of the groove directly. I had to go over a pair of wires.

The groove diameter is .094"-(.015"+.014")=.065". (picture was taken prior to final measurement)

Now we know.

 
#21 ·
Thanks Tom & Paul.
I tried the local Harley dealership, zero interest from them. Their comment, none of their bikes have had carby's for years, could not be bothered to try looking it up. There might have been a little sarcasm in my voice with my parting comment that I got my carby slide from there.
The local Honda dealership is the same as the one I ordered my parts from. Does the big 4 japanese brands plus Triumph. Might try again from the Honda angle when I pick up the other parts.
At least if that fails I have the size now. thanks.
 
#22 ·
I think your parting comment might have been "Well, I can see why you'd not stock parts for Hardly that is 10 years old since they don't last that long. G'day, mate."
 
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#23 ·
Sorry, It has taken a while. Got delayed by several issues, the only one of interest to this forum being that I found a stripped foot peg nut. Now tapped out to 10mm.
Got an E clip from the local "nut & Bolts" place. May not be the same as the OEM part but it is a good tight fit.
Due to the desire not to remove the crash bars I did the job with the carby still on the bike. To rotate the carby sufficiently the starter solenoid bracket needs to be loosened right off. Worse part of the job is the plastic fuel enricher nut, a pain to both undo & do up.
Bike starts & idles & responds well to no load throttle blips however due to catching the flu I have not had the opportunity for a test ride.
My biggest take out from this is that I need to pay more attention to preventative maintenance. i.e Hardware torques, battery fluid levels etc.

Thanks for all the advice made the job much easier.
Regards Grant
 
#24 ·
Too late now, but for the future: The enricher nut doesn't have to be removed to rotate the carburettor (hey, if you can call it a carby I can use an antiquated spelling). One merely needs to pull the metal elbow out of the nut, fold it alongside the carburettor, and rotate.

All y'all didn't watch the 22cent video, didja?
 
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#26 ·
All y'all didn't watch the 22cent video, didja?
Actually I did watch the video before I did the 22c mod about a year ago. That time I was only accessing the top. This time needing to rotate a whole lot further to access the float bowl & not having sufficient confidence that the enricher mechanism would be ok, I opted for caution.
 
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