running a little rough - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-24-2009, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: DFW area Texas
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running a little rough

I've noticed over the last few weeks that my 08 seems to be "missing" a little when cruising around 45 to 50 mph. I think its between 3000 and 3500 rpm.
I'm sure I could start from scratch, and eventually find the problem, but I thought I'd see if anyone else has had the same issue.
I don't think it should need anything replaced yet, unless it's the plug? I have just over 10,000 on it. I don't think the air cleaner is supposed to be an issue until, what, 12,000 miles?
Any ideas on where to start?

EDIT: I must have been tired last night... I meant that I thought the PLUG wasn't supposed to be an issue until about 12,000 miles, not the air filter. I'm originally from west Texas... I KNOW that air filters get dirty when they get dirty.. maybe I'm just getting old.... lol

Last edited by hornetguy; 09-25-2009 at 09:29 AM. Reason: clarification
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post #2 of 9 Old 09-25-2009, 09:00 AM
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The air cleaner's an issue whenever it's dirty. If it's blocking substancial airflow, it's going to cause the bike to run badly.

I clean mine every 3-4000 miles, or sooner, depending on what type of riding I've been doing.

ALWAYS start with the simple stuff. Pull the filter out and clean it and re-oil it. Install and see if it takes care of the issue. If not, go to the next cheap and simple thing and replace the spark plug, but just do one thing at a time, if you can.. If you do a bunch of repairs/modifications at the same time, you won't know what actually fixed it.

And if this doesn't solve it, I'd look into the low speed air jet screw on the bottom side of the carb. There's an aluminum cap over it, which has to be removed, and then lightly bottom it and back it out 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns. My bike felt like it was surging or stumbling at regular highway speeds, on flat ground. I checked my screw and it was fully seated. I backed it out 3 1/2 turns and it's been fine since.. That was 4 years ago.

Last edited by Paper; 09-25-2009 at 09:04 AM.
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post #3 of 9 Old 09-25-2009, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Ok... great! I didn't know about the screw.. I'll definitely check that after doing the air cleaner maintenance. I've never been all that good with adjusting carbs, but I imagine this is a good time to learn. I am generally good to pretty good with all things mechanical, and I do equipment maintenance for a living, I've just never had much engine experience. Some of it still appears to be "black magic" to me, but that's probably just a slight fear of the unknown.
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post #4 of 9 Old 09-25-2009, 09:30 AM
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Not really an adjustment. It's just a screw that meters fuel in the first 1/3 of the throttle and needs to be set properly. I have no idea where mine was set until I found it to be an issue, and I haven't touched it since.

On the earlier bikes, you need to turn the carb a bit, so be careful not to screw up your cables and cable holders.

Seriously, I wouldn't even consider the carb until you've eliminated the air cleaner and plug possibilities.
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-25-2009, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
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right... that's what I was thinking. Start with the simple stuff. Especially since it seems to have run properly up until lately. Seems to indicate something has changed, which would tend to eliminate that hidden screw. It probably doesn't move much on its own.
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-25-2009, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornetguy View Post
right... that's what I was thinking. Start with the simple stuff. Especially since it seems to have run properly up until lately. Seems to indicate something has changed, which would tend to eliminate that hidden screw. It probably doesn't move much on its own.
I'm not sure.. I think mine did move on it's own, maybe from vibration? I rode the bike for a year before having an issue with the screw, but I haven't heard anyone else having an issue with the screw moving by itself.

You'll do fine..

If the other stuff doesn't take care of it, let us know..
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post #7 of 9 Old 09-25-2009, 10:10 AM
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running a little rough

the idle mixture screw is spring loaded to prevent it moving on it's own.
Paper, your's being completely closed would not be totally unusual, I have seen that before.
We installed a FMF jet kit in a customer '06 klr yesterday. Very nice improvement in overall rideability and snappiness.
The fuel screw on this one was at 1 1/2 turns open.
His complaint was that the bike would not idle with the choke off, though that was rectified by turning up the idle speed a tick. I advised the owner of that, he said go ahead and jet it.
We also checked valve clearance, found to be in spec.

'08 KLR650,
'72 BMW R75/5 (Col. Klink),
'02 KTM 400 E/XC,
'05 ktm 125 sx (for sale)

"Hey, are you okay? Can you get up?
I thought you said you could ride"

All the best
Kent Soignier
www.gmdatl.com
the str8ner
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post #8 of 9 Old 09-25-2009, 10:14 AM
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It was just odd that the bike had 4000 miles on it before it became an issue. It's an 02' and this was later in the year when I bought it in 2004. I'd put 3000 miles on it before the issue showed up.

Beats me.. All I know is that the cap was still on the screw and running it out 3 turns solved the issue.
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post #9 of 9 Old 10-01-2009, 12:04 AM
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Location: Central Sierra Mountains
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My guess is its the needle jet in the carb. the .22 cent mod will fix that. Plenty of posts on here regarding that mod with the 2 tiny washers. If you do open up the carb I would suggest replacing the throttle cable bracket bolt with a real bolt (I used allen heads) maybe also change the top and bottom cover bolts.
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