Flywheel covers - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 04-29-2019, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Flywheel covers

I did the 570.1 mile initial service today (close enough to 600). I did everything except the balancer chain tension adjustment. It probably does no need it at 570 miles, but I figure it can’t hurt to be sure it is correct. The engine is quite quiet so I suspect all is well. My question is, what do you all use to remove the center and top covers, the ones with the long slots in them. I read somewhere that an old doohickey works well, but since I have yet to do the doo, I don’t have a spare doohickey to use. I don’t want to bugger the cover slots up with a screwdriver so looking for some clever ideas.

I was very pleased with the condition of the oil. It was dark, but far from black and I so no detectable metallic content as sometimes is seen on an initial oil change. The filter cover came off pretty easily with just my fingers, not need to pry on it as I have seem some folks do in videos. I just rocked it back and forth with my fingers and it came off fairly quickly.

I was surprised when I went to install the filter cover. I thought I would be able to simply push it in place with some oil on the o-ring and inside the housing, but I could not push it in with hand pressure. I tried rapping it with the heel of my and and that didn’t work either. I was afraid something wasn’t seated right, but the Wix filter looked nearly the same length as the OEM and the center tube sent into place well. So, I decided to put in the bolts and turn them with just a socket and my fingers until there was some pressure on the cover and see what happened. It slipped into place quite easily so I guess it was just a tight with with the -o-ring.

As an aside, as I was inspecting the brakes, I noticed that the front brake pads only sweep about 80% of the rotor. There is a good 0.1” or so on the inner diameter that isn’t touched by the brake pads judging by the wear marks on the disk. Seems a shame to waste that much of the disk area. I didn’t look closely at the back to see if it is the same there.

All in all, everything looks to be in great shape after the first few hundred miles. Now to start adding a few accessories. Need to order the doohickey from EM and probably will get an oil drain plug also. I was surprised at how far below the frame tube the stock one protrudes. I see where one hit on a rock could cause very expensive damage. Need to get a real skid plate also. I like the looks of the Motortek unit, but not sure if it is worth the premium price. Decisions, decisions.
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post #2 of 10 Old 04-29-2019, 06:21 PM
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Voyager, If you haven't already been to the Doo-Hickey by the time you read this, may I ask you to attempt to Loosen the locking bolt with only your fingers on 1/4" drive extension, No ratchet! Or maybe a nut driver?

I've found a couple of loose locking bolts on newer Gen 2's.

As to a tool for the timing plugs. I have a scrap piece of 1 x 1 x 1/16th flat steel. One side is ground in an arc which fits the curvature of the small plug. With a pair of plier or a crecent wrench one can very easily loosen without damage. Only need slightly more than finger tight upon re-install also.

And 69 Inch Pounds on the doo locking bolt.


Some oil filters & grommets are longer than others. 69 in lbs on those bolts also.

ps, The Gen 2 doo-hickey is too thick to fit the slots.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 04-29-2019 at 06:25 PM. Reason: ps, added
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post #3 of 10 Old 04-29-2019, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Voyager, If you haven't already been to the Doo-Hickey by the time you read this, may I ask you to attempt to Loosen the locking bolt with only your fingers on 1/4" drive extension, No ratchet! Or maybe a nut driver?

I've found a couple of loose locking bolts on newer Gen 2's.

As to a tool for the timing plugs. I have a scrap piece of 1 x 1 x 1/16th flat steel. One side is ground in an arc which fits the curvature of the small plug. With a pair of plier or a crecent wrench one can very easily loosen without damage. Only need slightly more than finger tight upon re-install also.

And 69 Inch Pounds on the doo locking bolt.


Some oil filters & grommets are longer than others. 69 in lbs on those bolts also.

ps, The Gen 2 doo-hickey is too thick to fit the slots.
Nope, haven’t got to it yet. Need to find a piece of metal to make a tool. I will try to remember to check the current tightness of the lock bolt.
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-29-2019, 10:29 PM
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@Voyager,

A couple of the largish fender washers will do the trick in a pinch.

I made a tool out of a hunk of 1/8" x 1 1/4" flat stock. The piece is about 4" long. At one ind I ground a radius of 1" to fit the center plug. That end also needs to be thinned to .1".

At the other end, one corner has been radiused to 7/8" to fit the timing plug. It doesn't need to be thinned. Drilling a hole through each end that will fit a 1/4" ratchet extension is handy for leverage purposes.

These radii seem to be a good fit but were arrived at pretty much by eyeball. One could easily measure the depth of the groove at the center, the length of the chord, and then derive the radius.

Tom [email protected]

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 04-29-2019 at 10:41 PM. Reason: typo
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-29-2019, 11:20 PM
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I calculated the radii as, timing plug = .84" and center plug = .89".

Tom [email protected]

“I lit a cigarette and dragged a smoking stand beside the chair. The minutes went by on tiptoe, with their fingers to their lips.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
I calculated the radii as, timing plug = .84" and center plug = .89".
You are a sick man, Tom! But I much appreciate it. Now to make a visit to Home Despot for some flat stock. I don’t think I have anything this thin. Although, I did have an extra 1/8” aluminum bar that I used to make the flywheel holder for my LT. I am not sure though if aluminum would be stout enough for this application. Hmmm....
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 09:14 AM
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1/8" aluminium would certainly be strong enough. It would also make a light-weight high-speed-racing version of the tool.

It'll gum up yer grinder, though. ;^)

Tom [email protected]

“I lit a cigarette and dragged a smoking stand beside the chair. The minutes went by on tiptoe, with their fingers to their lips.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
1/8" aluminium would certainly be strong enough. It would also make a light-weight high-speed-racing version of the tool.

It'll gum up yer grinder, though. ;^)
Yeah, it does gum it up a little, but it’ll wear off eventually.

The 1/8” x 1” Al stock worked fine. I didn’t even need to thin it out much. It fit both plugs pretty well and nice and snug so that the plug doesn't fall off of the “wrench.”

Now I just have to find Paul’s post that tells where to position the crank so that the balances are positioned to help tension the change for the adjustment.

And I checked the adjuster bolt and it is snug from the factory. I haven’t loosened it yet to see how snug, but I could not turn it by hand using the socket alone so it definitely isn’t crazy loose. I did not want to loosen it until I had the crank positioned.
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post #9 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 10:54 AM
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Turn the engine CCW to TDC. (Lazy T) It does Not matter whether it is Exhaust stroke or Compression stroke, the balancer weights are turning 1:1 ratio.

The advance timing marks will look like ( ll )------------------------------( Fl )---( l-- ). Lazy T.

pdwestman
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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-30-2019, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Turn the engine CCW to TDC. (Lazy T) It does Not matter whether it is Exhaust stroke or Compression stroke, the balancer weights are turning 1:1 ratio.

The advance timing marks will look like ( ll )------------------------------( Fl )---( l-- ). Lazy T.
Piece of cake. The engine had stopped just shy of the F mark as it appeared almost as soon as I began to turn. Knowing the T was close behind based on Tom’s fancy protractor overlay diagram that I found during my search, I easily found the T. The adjustment bolt had a fair bit of drag, I assume from the seals, so it was hard to tell when it was completely loose. I went a turn or maybe slightly more, tapped the case with a plastic mallet and figured that was good enough. I will likely do the doohickey mod next winter and I will be lucky to get 2,000 more miles on the KLR by then.

I will be gone most of May and June making a pilgrimage to Alaska. On the BMW, not the KLR. If I was going solo, I’d give the KLR serious consideration as I could then consider riding all the way to Prudhoe Bay. However, with the wife along, the LT is the only option even though that means stopping at Fairbanks as our northernmost destination. If the weather is really nice though, I may make an attempt to get to the Arctic Circle sign, but that is iffy with a bike like the LT unless the roads are completely dry.
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