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2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 29 Old 05-04-2019, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
The ORIGINAL 1987 OEM KL650-A1 service manual supplement #99924-1080-51 had a FEW errors.

Page 14-7
Tightening Torque
Magneto flywheel bolt:
235 N-m (24 kg-m, 175 ft-lb)--------take notice of newer Gen 1 manual numbers 175 N-m (18.0 kg-m, 130 ft-lb)

The Gen 1 manuals suggests a stepped torque of 87 ft lb, loosen then tighten to final torque. Says nothing about clean & dry.
The Gen 2 manual suggests a stepped torque of 15 ft lb, remove the bolt, clean & dry, re-install & final torque of 144 ft lb. (No where do they say to clean & dry the crankshaft threads, so why bother.)

They all say clean & dry on the tapers, as is absolutely always required of taper fits. I always place 2 stipples or indents into one side of the lower portion of the woodruff key and tap it down into the fly-cut, makes it Stay In Place.

I personally don't believe that loosening will allow any 're-centering' or 'relaxing' of the tapers, whether one steps at 15 or 87 ft lbs.

I personally use anti-seize grease under the head & on the bolt threads and dis-continued the stepped torque sequence Long ago and Torque all KLR650's to 130 Foot Pounds. (130 lubed pretty much equals 144 dry)
(I have had factory installed flywheels almost fall off & others that required massive persuasion.)
Thanks, Paul. I absolutely agree that if extreme force is required to loosen a fastener, that suggests it was either overtightened or is likely distorted or corroded and thus warrants replacement. I plan to use my bolt again, unless there is obvious cause to replace it as you mentioned here. I am glad the HT wrench works as it is half the price and looks like 1/10 the size of the EM part. Though the EM part certainly appears to be hell for stout.

I usually derate dry thread torque values by 20% for lubed threads. I will probably dry mine with brake cleaner and use the 144 value if that is what is in my 2017 manual. I don’t recall now what I read for that, but I never go on memory for critical fasteners and always check again as I am setting the wrench.

I also plan to try to use the gaskets again unless they were put on with gasket gunk and thus tear apart upon removal. If I have to order new gaskets, then I may add in a new bolt just for grins. Hopefully, I will need neither given how new my engine is and how few miles are on it.
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post #12 of 29 Old 05-04-2019, 01:19 PM
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I've had rotors fall off in my lap, too, and I've had rotors that needed a cheater bar and all of my ample girth on the business end plus a whack on the end of the rotor puller. I haven't had to use heat yet.

I'm sure I don't need to tell you this but put grease on the rotor puller face, then on the threads. Then put some grease down in the hole where the puller will rest and on the rotor threads. Then put some more on the puller face and threads and one stripe on each cheek (facial). Have your cheater handy like you were going to take the rear axle nut off yer Beetle. Crank up AC/DC's 'Dirty Deeds and the Jungle Jeep' and have at it.

Tom [email protected]

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post #13 of 29 Old 05-04-2019, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
I've had rotors fall off in my lap, too, and I've had rotors that needed a cheater bar and all of my ample girth on the business end plus a whack on the end of the rotor puller. I haven't had to use heat yet.

I'm sure I don't need to tell you this but put grease on the rotor puller face, then on the threads. Then put some grease down in the hole where the puller will rest and on the rotor threads. Then put some more on the puller face and threads and one stripe on each cheek (facial). Have your cheater handy like you were going to take the rear axle nut off yer Beetle. Crank up AC/DC's 'Dirty Deeds and the Jungle Jeep' and have at it.
I rarely need more than a 1/2” drive breaker bar. I can still twist off a 1/2” lug nut with just that.
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post #14 of 29 Old 05-04-2019, 06:05 PM
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I take it you've never removed a Beetle's rear axle nut.

"Either that or you do curls with the bumper of a '57 Buick with the Buick still attached," Tom said mightily.

Tom [email protected]

“If I wasn't hard, I wouldn't be alive. If I couldn't ever be gentle, I wouldn't deserve to be alive.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #15 of 29 Old 05-04-2019, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
I take it you've never removed a Beetle's rear axle nut.

"Either that or you do curls with the bumper of a '57 Buick with the Buick still attached," Tom said mightily.
Well, I grew up on a farm and worked as a logger to pay my way through college. I have lost probably 40% of my strength at age 59, but I can still hold my own with most young people of today who grew up on video games.

As to your question, yes, I owned two Beetles.

No car even compares to the nuts and bolts I worked on on log skidders, dozers and 18 wheelers.
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post #16 of 29 Old 05-05-2019, 06:03 PM
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Tom, there is Soooo much Lessss risk in using heat on the mounting boss of the rotor than your extra girth compared to mine.
Are you aware of EM's SUPER Puller for people who have stripped the threads of the Rotor instead of threads of the puller like my oem puller did?

Happy Trails once ground a rotor OFF of the crankshaft! Maybe that was just before EM built the SUPER Puller? The Super Puller attaches to the 6 starter drive allen bolt holes.
I find Quick Heating to be quicker & easier.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 83,000+ miles & counting
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post #17 of 29 Old 05-06-2019, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Just drove myself nuts finding the reference...

The only Gen 1 manual that I have is 99924-1080-58, which was current at around MY2002. On page 14-7 it says:

•Replace the magneto flywheel bolt with a new one.
This bolt is required to replace if it has been tightened
once to the specified torque.


It is likely that this replaceable item idea covered '87 to '07 or perhaps '96 to '07, when it was apparently repealed for the Gen 2 bikes when they raised the torque value by 14ft-lbs.

@pdwestman might be able to confirm that the above quote is in both the MY87 and the MY07 supplements.
My manual (2017 Part No. 99924-1384-12) has the rotor removal and installation on pages 16-28 and -29. I checked again for a note about rotor bolt replacement and still see nothing. Unless it is elsewhere in the manual. It simply says to install the bolt, torque to 15 ft-lb, remove, clean and dry the rotor bolt, then install again and torque to 144 ft-lbs. The only notice on the page is one that says in the case of a tough to remove rotor, tap the end of the removal tool while turning it. Nothing about a new bolt or using heat for removal, although a little heat does sound like a good idea as Paul mentioned. My only concern with heat as it can cause a loss of magnetism and I believe the rotor contains permanent magnets, right?

Last edited by Voyager; 05-06-2019 at 09:49 AM.
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post #18 of 29 Old 05-06-2019, 09:06 AM
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There is nothing in the Gen 2 manuals about the bolt being a replaceable item. That was only in the Gen 1 manuals.

The rotor does contain permanent magnets.

Tom [email protected]

“If I wasn't hard, I wouldn't be alive. If I couldn't ever be gentle, I wouldn't deserve to be alive.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #19 of 29 Old 05-06-2019, 09:43 AM
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Concentrated heat from a small-medium welding tip applies the heat directly to the steel mounting hub quickly, doesn't heat the rest of the rotor much like a propane torch might. We only need approximately 250-300F. That is still inside of Normal operating temp of the engine.

I only use heat after an Un-successful reasonably stout attempt at cold removal. Screw in the puller After heating.
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post #20 of 29 Old 05-06-2019, 09:45 AM
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Interesting thread; I'm sticking with my Gen1 manual 130 ft lbs and replacing the rotor bolt every time......though I doubt it needs to be. One question; who cares if the HT wrench is smaller? ....you guys don't seriously carry one with you, do you?

Dave
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