Recommendations for good basic skid plate. - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 20 Old 07-19-2019, 03:42 AM
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I was thinking about cutting off those sticking out "ears" since they're pretty flimsy and aren't doing anything anymore. But then I had a look around and found a plate of galvanised steel about a foot wide. It fits perfectly in the gap above the AT bash plate and provides some protection for the vulnerable coolant pump. Once trimmed to size it only took the drilling of two small holes to mount it. If nothing else it prevents further peppering of the front downtube and engine cases with sh*t thrown off the front wheel.


Last edited by Felix888; 07-19-2019 at 07:08 PM.
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post #12 of 20 Old 08-27-2019, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Just to update, I decided several weeks ago on the Enduro Engineering plate. My goal was more protection than stock while keeping weight and cost down and not being too hideous. I don’t frequent horribly rocky areas and when I do I’m extra cautious more in fear of breaking me than the bike. This EE plate bolts straight on a 2nd gen with no extra hardware, comes with 4 new bolts to replace the stock ones and noise insulating adhesive padding to stick to the frame. There is a large hole for the oil drain and it is already set up to accommodate their optional shock linkage skid plate that I did not buy.

Installation was as simple as unbolting the old and bolting on the new. It weighed in at a scale verified about 3 pounds heavier than the stock composite guard. Initially I did not install the padded foam and it made a tinny rattley vibration kind of noise that I hated within the first mile. I immediately went back, cleaned the frame and stuck on the padding. Noise cured and it’s virtually silent except for the hollow whack sound of substantial rocks that get thrown up from the front tire occasionally when off road. It’s unnerving to hear at first but comforting once you consider it would have been hitting plastic before. Fortunately I haven’t cased any big rocks or fallen over so I can’t comment to that.

Price wise it was a few dollars cheaper and a couple pounds lighter than a Riccohet from Rocky Mountain ATV. It appears the Riccochet wraps around more and theoretically may offer more protection. That’s up to you to decide. Aesthetics wise the EE plate is about as nice looking as a skid plate can be. Work of art welds that I could only dream of replicating and a very nice ball burnished almost polished finish. I actually wanted a dark anodized and almost went with the Riccochet for that reason but once it was on I’m happy with the appearance. Thanks for your input and advise. If I ended up buying something different it was only because my priorities were different.
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Last edited by EricZ; 08-27-2019 at 10:38 AM.
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post #13 of 20 Old 08-27-2019, 01:07 PM
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EE makes good stuff too.

Dave
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post #14 of 20 Old 08-28-2019, 04:14 PM
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SW-Motech!
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post #15 of 20 Old 09-26-2019, 01:47 PM
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Happy Trails makes a nice one (even has a bottle opener in it).
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post #16 of 20 Old 09-26-2019, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schoen View Post
Happy Trails makes a nice one (even has a bottle opener in it).
I'll urge you to place a straight edge under that H-T skid plate and check the oil drain plug clearance. There is not as much bow in the newer H-T skid plate as the Ricochette type plates, unless they improved it.

You may wish to lay the bike down on RH side, remove the drain plug and shorten its head or replace with an EM shallow head magnetic plug.
And then install some 1/4" rubber donuts between frame rails & skid plate.

I wish they would all use a smaller drain hole!!

A customer recently skinned a rock with his drain plug thru the large H-T drain hole and the plate had been mounted by me with rubber donuts 2 years ago. Way too close of encounter, whew!

pdwestman
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post #17 of 20 Old 09-26-2019, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I'll urge you to place a straight edge under that H-T skid plate and check the oil drain plug clearance. There is not as much bow in the newer H-T skid plate as the Ricochette type plates, unless they improved it.
You may wish to lay the bike down on RH side, remove the drain plug and shorten its head or replace with an EM shallow head magnetic plug.
And then install some 1/4" rubber donuts between frame rails & skid plate.
I wish they would all use a smaller drain hole!!
A customer recently skinned a rock with his drain plug thru the large H-T drain hole and the plate had been mounted by me with rubber donuts 2 years ago. Way too close of encounter, whew!
Do you have the same concerns even when the HT Impact Isolation Kit is installed?
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post #18 of 20 Old 09-26-2019, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
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Do you have the same concerns even when the HT Impact Isolation Kit is installed?
Probably.

Because I don't think the Isolation kit puts any rubber spacers between the FRAME & the skid plate.

pdwestman
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post #19 of 20 Old 09-26-2019, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Probably.

Because I don't think the Isolation kit puts any rubber spacers between the FRAME & the skid plate.
There is a rectangular rubber strip that goes between the lower frame rails and the skid plate but, if memory serves, they're only about 1/8" thick.
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post #20 of 20 Old 10-09-2019, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
...You may wish to...remove the drain plug and...replace with an EM shallow head magnetic plug...
Finally got around to looking at this...I do have the shallow head magnetic plug and it's about 3/4" above the access hole of the HT skid plate (with isolation kit).
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