PDWestman oil mods to my 08 burner testing - Page 3 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #21 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 12:25 PM
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That pretty much mirrors what happened on my '09 with a dusted piston (and a badly distorted set of rings).

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post #22 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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The bubble got smaller overnight. This is quite encouraging. Will keep riding and closely watching. Maybe some longer trips this summer without towing an oil trailer will still be possible!
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post #23 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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And a 16th post picture if it works......
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post #24 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 02:23 PM
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Paul has noted that there can be some oil that is kept out of the sump if the engine stops with the piston closer to top dead center as opposed to bottom dead center.

The crank pin has an oil passageway that comes from the center of the crankshaft. If the piston stops in the upward direction then the oil that is in the filter cavity cannot drain through that passageway and into the sump. Your over-night oil readings can vary according to the crank's stopped position.

I can't remember how much oil it is, but it is something to keep in mind. If you want to be precise about repeatability of the sight glass readings then the crank should be stopped in the same position every time. That's a bit of a PITA as it requires removing the two plastic caps in the alternator cover and turning the crank. If the sight glass reading '1/2 full' then it may not be discernable but it could make the difference between a wee bubble and no bubble.

@pdwestman, do you recall the amount that is held back if the crank is at TDC?

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post #25 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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Tom I had read that too as far at the plus/minus of where the cranks stops. I’m not that precise. Just in range and top half of glass is good enough for me. Oil usage will be equally as imprecise. Just want to keep track of what’s used and keep a running tab really. On trips at stops I just make sure it’s in the window around half.
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post #26 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 03:13 PM
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Gotcha. Just to get it down, though, I made some measurements and did some math.

The filter element displaces 40cc. The filter cavity has a volume of 150cc. The filter, then, should hold back 110cc. I'm not accounting for the oil that would be in the cap itself becasue there aren't any readily available caps in the Shop of Horrors without getting a ladder out. I'd guess another 15-20cc.

If the piston is at BDC the top half of the filter should drain quickly, so ~50cc. The remainder should drain back through the pump and through the gap in the filter cap over a considerably longer period of time. Overnight oughta do it.

If I recall correctly, the sight glass, top to bottom, represents about a liter. If I'm right on that, then a complete drain back of the filter would change the sight glass by 10%.

More semi-useless shit people don't really need to know.
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“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 06-25-2019 at 03:18 PM.
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post #27 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 03:25 PM
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I will suggest that the amount contained in the oem oil filter cavity will vary between 2 - 4 ounces depending upon BDC vs TDC of the rod pin and parked on the side stand. I estimate the oil filter cavity to hold about 8 ounces total.

When parked on a center stand with oem filter cavity, the contained volume will be zero when crank stops near BDC, because of the few thousands clearance between filter cap & clutch cover bore. Of course dependant on tempurature and time parked.

When crank stops near TDC and parked on center stand the cavity may retain 4 - 6 ounces of oil.

If I Recall Correctly.

PS, I recon that I've always over-estimated the oil filter cavity capacity then. But then the Newer models have a smaller diameter cavity than the older models, which was part of what spurred me to modify the inlet. Remember the 1990 vs 2006 pic?

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Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting

Last edited by pdwestman; 06-25-2019 at 03:32 PM. Reason: ps added.
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post #28 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Tom, not useless at all and I’m like you and just like knowing things........
But you guys take the cake on these bikes! I’ll keep track and keep riding. Having a ball on it so far.
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post #29 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 08:06 PM
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Paul, I went to that picture and used the 2.3" diameter and the filter's length (2.2") to approximate the length. I dunked a perfectly good Gen-U-Wine Kawasaki filter in a beaker of water to get the amount of oil it would displace. It's drying out now...

The overall guesstimate is about approximately almost 4 3/8 ounces or 130ish cc, plus or minus some, if you include the cap. As you point out, not all of that will necessarily drain out due to the lean angle. More on a Gen 2 and less on a Gen 1? ;^)

Next time I change the oil I'll measure what remains.

Tom [email protected]

“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
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post #30 of 39 Old 06-25-2019, 08:16 PM
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Just askin' . . . doesn't the Owner's Manual dictate different volumes for oil changes, with and without filter exchange? If so, KAWASAKI has spoken! The official position MUST be correct!

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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