if ive done the 692 kit and oil burning is gone. should i still do the banjo and oil filter oil mods also?
I'll suggest that you may
perform all or part of the oil control mods. Specifically the 1st banjo bolt by the starter motor.
Better yet, the 1st banjo bolt & the cylinder head banjo bolt. Or even better yet, all 3 banjo bolts.
IMO, the more oil flow thru the others parts
of the KLR engine the better. Kawasaki did it themselves, on the KLX250's / 300's & 650's. The only Kawasaki models to ever us the tiny holed banjo bolts were the KLR250, 600 & 650 plus the KSF250 atv which was based on the KLR250 engine.
Or 3 banjo bolts & a #40 / 2.49mm / .098inch crankshaft oil control orifice in the oil Filter cap, for simplicity.
I've tested clear down to #46 / 2.06mm / .081inch crankshaft oil control orifice. (My 3000 mile oil change [BSL #4] wear metals were still less ppm per 1k traveled than the Blackstone UA's with 2100 mile average oil changes.)
How tight is the case around the outer steel end cap of your oil filter cavity? Maybe reduce the height of that ledge from the oil inlet port at 5:00 upto the 2:00 area by about 1mm?
Or if you are up to it the 100% oil filtration is pretty simple to do if the clutch cover is ever off
And at least lapping the cold oil Pressure Relief Valve is not hard to do. One can simply use the existing spring, like Kawasaki still does in the KLX series. up thru 2013 at least (16130-1001)
I see a new part number for the newer 2104+ KLX250's, part #16130-0002. I wonder if it has a lower set point or better sealing?
Thanks for the vote of confidence, PT-13Pilot. KLRChris also used the 4 basic oil control mods on his 60HP 685 engine.