Using a retention washer for the rear sprocket? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 07-02-2019, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Using a retention washer for the rear sprocket?

My rear sprocket has the 2 bolt holes for use with a retention washer. The output shaft is grooved as well. It seems like it would be easier to swap sprockets than using the large central retention nut.
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post #2 of 13 Old 07-02-2019, 01:34 PM
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Front sprocket?

The early Gen1 setup (splined with two bolt "washer") was inferior to the later set-ups as there was too much slop which caused wear on the output shaft. The later design using the large nut keeps the sprocket from moving as much and reduces the wear on the output shaft. If you are swapping back and forth, I recommend Eaglemike's prevailing torque nut which I use at about half the specified torque for the stock nut.

Dave
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post #3 of 13 Old 07-02-2019, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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That's what I'm using now. Most of my old bikes had them. Just trying to make swapping easier. Bouncing between the 14&16 tooth sprockets.
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post #4 of 13 Old 07-02-2019, 02:07 PM
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pretty sure you'd need a pre-'96 output shaft to run the old retention plate. https://www.eaglemike.com/1987-1995-...spktretplt.htm

Dave
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post #5 of 13 Old 07-02-2019, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hvymax View Post
That's what I'm using now. Most of my old bikes had them. Just trying to make swapping easier. Bouncing between the 14&16 tooth sprockets.
A VERY shortened box end wrench which can be tucked under or above the swingarm and then the bike pulled or pushed in a 'jerking' fashion can loosen or tighten the EM countershaft nut to a 'Reasonable' torque setting.

I couldn't find/remember the thread with pics.
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post #6 of 13 Old 07-02-2019, 10:31 PM
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post #7 of 13 Old 07-03-2019, 11:31 AM
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I'm sure the locknut is probably a better retention system and if I had it on my bike I would not change away from it. But I don't think the old retention plate system was bad - and it certainly makes doing sprockets when away from your home workshop a lot easier. As to the wear issue, I'm not certain it is a real problem: with the retaining plate system my bike at 175,000 miles is still running with out issues.

The bigger problem is Kawasaki stopped making the retaining plate in about 2016 and now, as far as I know, you can only get after market ones. The ones I sourced for the first year or so after Kawasaki's became unavailable, were all atrocious quality. They were made of very soft metal and I found I was using three or four before the sprocket wore out whereas the OEM ones used to last several sprockets.

For the last 30,000 miles (now on second chains and sprocket) I've thrown the plates a away and have been using a simple external circlip of the appropriate size in the slot. This has worked with nil problems and is an idea I picked up from Suzuki DR650 riders whose bikes also use the retaining plate system.

For what it's worth I think the biggest problem with the retaining plate is it is easy to destroy it quickly by mis-aligning your wheel so that the chain wants to make the sprocket walk outwards along the shaft. I learnt that one the hard way.



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post #8 of 13 Old 07-04-2019, 02:16 AM
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Guys . . . we're talking about the REAR sprocket?

Not the FRONT sprocket?

If so . . . I'm CONFUSED!

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #9 of 13 Old 07-04-2019, 06:10 AM
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Despite the title the OP talks about swapping between 14 and 16 tooth (see post #3). Pretty sure we are talking about the front sprocket - if not he is taking the search for taller gearing a bit far.

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post #10 of 13 Old 07-04-2019, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Guys . . . we're talking about the REAR sprocket?

Not the FRONT sprocket?

If so . . . I'm CONFUSED!
He said rear but he meant front.....it's OK

Dave
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