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Where does YOUR engine temperature needle live?

7K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  pdwestman 
#1 ·
Hi all. I did a search on engine temperature and read those posts about Thermobob etc without seeing this specific thing mentioned anywhere. I've had numerous bikes of all sorts over the years but have just acquired a 2011 model KLR and today took it out for its first time - over 200 km of high speed highway, deep bush bashing and mountain road twistys. All ok but my temperature needle hardly moved off "C"old the whole day (although it was a coolish 27C here in sunny Queensland). So if that's normal GREAT (certainly better than sitting on "H"ot all day). But if the engine is actually running at the indicated well-below-mid-range temperature that's not ideal either. For one thing the fuel won't be atomising properly which is inefficient AND can wash the oil off the bore leading to premature failure.

It also has a barely perceptible hesitancy as if it's running lean and on the verge of seizing the whole time, but it's got basically a straight through open pipe on it (STUPIDLY loud!) and probably not matched with an oversized main jet to compensate, so I've ordered an OEM muffler which will go on ASAP and might just cure that. Otherwise I'll then look into careful tuning of the carb' - but pointless to fiddle with that until/unless the engine is breathing the way Mr Kawasaki intended in the first place. Main thing I'm anxious to know though, is how my guage compares with the rest of you lucky KLR-ers. Anyone?
 
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#2 ·
That's the normal needle position. It will warm up if left to idle but will cool off again once underway.

Many folks will install a ThermoBob, which is a system that includes a radiator bypass line and a warmer thermostat. With that installed the engine temps will be at mid-gauge, or about 90*C.

I'm not sure about the availability of such stuff in Australia, but Watt-Man may ship there.
 
#3 ·
As Tom said, yes just above the "C" mark is normal for a stock & standard Gen 2 KLR, when in-motion. But higher is better. 190 - 220 F is great.

Have a look at the Thermo-Bob gauge overlays.
https://shop.watt-man.com/Coolant-Temp-Face-Overlays_c5.htm

1 or 2 .5mm shim washers on the mid-range carb needle might eliminate your 'lean running' sensation.
 
#4 ·
Thanks guys, appreciate the answers. So my temperature needle living in the guage's basement is NOT unusual? That's a relief. Still, installing the Thermobob seems a bit dramatic. Has anyone tried just changing the thermostat? Growing up in a frigid part of Canada we used to change the car's thermostat twice a year (and grade of oil and tyres...) to cope with the weather. Now you know why I live in Queensland :)
 
#5 ·
You can just change the thermostat. I think Watt-man is the only one who has them up here. That will raise the temperature some, but it won't stabilize it. Better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, though.
 
#6 ·
I believe that Normk out of Chilliwack, BC Canada found that Chinese 'Sego' built scooters used a 180F thremostat of the same size as the KLR. One may need to drill the air bleed hole in the upper perimeter.

Felix888, does your Gen 2 Australian KLR650 still have the carburetor Anti-Icing plumbing on it?
 
#7 · (Edited)
How would I recognise it? Or is this a funny one, inasmuch as I come from the land of ice and snow (the bike doesn't though)?

On inspection, there's a plastic tube running from the water pump to a T fitting underneath the intake manifold side of the carb' and thence to the cylinder head with two sight glasses interposed (green contents suggestive of coolant). If this is to warm the induction tract I'd expect to see an EXIT for said coolant, otherwise it will only say "hello" as it travelled around the cooling system rather than flowing through that casting?!?!?!
 
#9 ·
Ok Felix888, your bikes coolant flows From the cylinder head thrermostat to the up-side down tee fitting In The Carb. The leg of the tee is hollow & divided, so the coolant touches the carb throat and goes down and out the left hand side thru a thermostatic valve and returns In To the coolant pump.

Ya' might say its a miniature thermobob in its own right. But you probably don't need an anti-iceing carb!

One can install larger fittings into the thermostat housing & coolant pump, connect with 1/4 or 5/16" hose.
Then install a 'Sego?' 180F or Wattman 195F thermostat and have a better functioning radiator by-pass system.
 
#8 ·
I don't have the fancy scale on my gauge, but after installing the Thermobob, the needle stays right in the middle of the bottom screw in the gauge.on hot days and just in the lower half of that screw on cold days. It keeps the engine at a very stable temp. Prior to installing it the only time it would get above the cold area was when sitting at a red light. As soon as I left the intersection it was right back down at the bottom. In my opinion, it is an add on well worth the $125 and the Kawasaki engineers should have their asses kicked for not including it in their design. Same for the torsion spring in the doohicky.
 
#15 ·
I'm curious, with what frequency do you plan on aiming that thermometer at the beast while driving? :nerd:

Also, here's a link to the relevant Wattman PDF. The data he gathered is pretty detailed and shows how often, under what conditions and to what degree the temp fluctuates.

http://www.watt-man.com/uploads/TB_Testing.pdf

Look at the graphs on page 3 and keep in mind not only the "wavies" in the graphs but the different behaviors of the temperatures as taken from different places (i.e., the different colored lines within each graph). The thermo-bob narrows the fluctuations in temperature, and also tends to standardize the entire system.
 
#13 ·
Ive come across an interesting problem myself. I installed blue radiator hoses just for $hits and giggles. thermo bob has been installed since I got the bike. Usually the needle would stay put at 190º will riding as it was supposed to, but for some reason after I put the new hoses on, it falls back and rests about a needle higher. Id say about 200 to 210. Its an 03, I've got the temperature gauge face overlay from Wattman as well (Farkle factor) so It was easily noticeable. I also put some water wetter in there to help with cooling (I have OCD). Any idea experts know why its doing that?
 
#14 ·
Everything radiates heat, and that means that everything contributes to cooling. I think it just means that the black rubber hoses radiated more heat than the blue silicone hoses do.
 
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