Does not respond immediately to the accelerator at highway speed - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 22 Old 07-17-2019, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Don't see how a leaky diaphragm causes, "poor gas mileage,"...
Yes, it certainly seems counter intuitive.

But back in the early 90s a buddy of mine was experiencing unusually poor gas mileage with his Yamaha Venture that has four CV carbs. We struggled trying to figure out why. But ultimately we discovered several cracked diaphragms and when they were replaced, gas mileage returned to normal.

What's more I've since read on other forums where poor gas mileage was a symptom of a cracked diaphragm.

However, I can't explain the science behind this phenomenon.

Jason
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post #12 of 22 Old 07-17-2019, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Norton 850 View Post
...How do you know the bike is only three years old...
Dicky has been here for a couple of years and has mentioned that his bike is a 2016 quite a few times. He's also posted plenty of pictures of it. I don't have an eidetic memory, but these sorts of details tend to stick in my head.

As examples, I will probably go to my grave remembering the mileage at which Paul rebuilt his top end and that Felix888's 2011 has the new style clutch and that Ilya's '89 wound up with a post-'95 clutch in it. Conversely, I have to put labels on my bike as to when the oil was changed, when the tires, chain, and sprockets were new, what thermostat is in the bike, and what the valve clearances were. I'd write it down in a book, but I'd not be able to remember where I put the book.

I suppose a 2016 could easily be four years old.
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post #13 of 22 Old 07-18-2019, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicky View Post
Tom,

It seems appropriate to wait for two tanks of gasoline to see the result of the additive. The fuel in Panama is good, besides I only use 95 on the bike. This is how you comment, nobody has touched the carburetor and usually I am afraid of the mechanics, if I am not clear about the diagnosis. LOL. For now I will wait and clean the air filter. I remained pending to comment on the result and the action that I will take after the two tanks.

Thanks to everyone who contributed their opinion.
Dicky, you mean Clean & Re-Oil your air filter. Correct?

You might check Under the air filter box for any sign of a hole Burnt Thru by a loose exhaust clamp allowing exhaust leakage.
A burn hole would allow dust into the carb throat, which could cause 'sticky slide'. But worse yet, piston, rings, cylinder & valves wear and becomes an oil burner.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #14 of 22 Old 07-18-2019, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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PDWESTMAN

Of course, clean with kerosene and oil it. I always do it that way, thanks to you in this forum that make so much emphasis on that. I avoid the mistakes of the new owners and I follow all your advice. The verbatim. LOL

I really got a lot out of this forum.

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post #15 of 22 Old 07-18-2019, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
@Dicky,

..........
.............
If it were my bike I would give the additive a tank or two to do its job, especially if there were no running issues other than throttle response. If it doesn't clear up then I'd rotate the carb so that I could remove the top cover and lift the spring out. Then I'd put my finger in the bore of the slide and gently test for its ability to slide up and down smoothly. I'd inspect the slide and its bore for crud, goo, varnish, evidence of sliding wear that has created burrs, and embedded grit. In short, anything that would inhibit it from sliding up and down freely. Have a look at the diaphragm as well.
....................
..............
I had a similar problem and found some "crud" on the slide. It didn't respond well to solvent, so I gently cleaned the slide with very fine emery cloth. That solved my problem.
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post #16 of 22 Old 07-20-2019, 04:16 PM
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Just brainstorming possibilities . . . someone may have monkeyed with the slide spring, as in clipping coils.

Clipping coils changes the initial spring pre-load, but . . . counter-intuitively, clipping coils makes the spring STIFFER (i.e., higher rate, force vs. displacement). Thus, at the higher slide openings (higher throttle positions), the increased spring rate of the compressed spring may resist slide elevation, compared with a stock slide spring configuration.

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #17 of 22 Old 07-27-2019, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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I just serviced the air filter. I attached some pictures of how it was. I am in the first full tank after having applied the carburetor cleaning additive. We have a lot of rain and this weekend is not going to stop. I've only traveled 6 miles.

Bonus, attached the photo of the foot peg scraped on the asphalt.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190727_090719_1564244320673.jpg (416.2 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg 20190727_091057_1564244377329.jpg (450.6 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg 20190622_145508_1564244482387.jpg (368.4 KB, 8 views)

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post #18 of 22 Old 07-27-2019, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicky View Post
I just serviced the air filter. I attached some pictures of how it was. I am in the first full tank after having applied the carburetor cleaning additive. We have a lot of rain and this weekend is not going to stop. I've only traveled 6 miles.

Bonus, attached the photo of the foot peg scraped on the asphalt.
Well, by the looks of that third pic, your hesitation problem is not preventing you from having fun!

Jason
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post #19 of 22 Old 07-27-2019, 05:47 PM
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Never clip the diaphragm spring

Possibly a small lean stumble in the transition circuit

Mine had the issue, and surging while cruising (2009 klr 650)

Remove Carb

Verify all passages clear with carb cleaner with a nozzle, do this by spraying in the air jets in the back of the carb and watch to verify cleaner coming our of the main jet and pilot jet (float bowl removed) as well as the needle jet nozzle and the little transition holes by the butterfly, Mixing tube check (between the main jet and the nozzle 8mm or 5/16)(a twist tie with the plastic stripped off works good for chasing these holes)

Drill the plug that blocks low speed mix adjuster, (use left had drill) check often, do not drill into the screw.

set the mix screw to 2 1/4 turns out (from lightly bottomed) stock 1 5/8, this will richen the mixture ever so slightly at cruising speed. (very carefully and gently turn screw to bottom and back out, counting half turns. carb will be ruined if you torque on this screw at all. Be extremely gentle)

Verify Float level

Assuming the exhaust is stock

all issues solved - 30 mins

All machines come from the factory set to a baseline. No accounting for altitude or different fuels. The factory settings are lean in nearly all cases.

JdgDReDD (licensed motorcycle mechanic for 27 yrs, ran kawi/suzuki/arctic cat shop for 17 years)

Last edited by JdgDReDD; 07-27-2019 at 06:13 PM.
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post #20 of 22 Old 07-27-2019, 10:20 PM
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Many owners / mechanics totally miss seeing, much less understanding the importance of the cleanliness of those 3 tiny little (transition) holes under the bottom lip of the throttle butterfly plate.
The external adjustable pilot mixture screw outlet & those 3 tiny transition holes all get their fuel from the low speed pilot jet. All four must flow aerosol spray carb cleaner freely.
Use a single strand of wire, bent 90 degrees to poke any foreign particulate Back down out of those holes & flush with aerosol carb cleaner & compressed air.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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