2009 KLR Starter Not Working After Fuse Blow - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 14 Old 07-25-2019, 03:45 PM
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I believe the main fuse on the big starter relay should be 20 amps and 30. That is not the problem here, but the fuses are supposed to burn out to protect the wiring. With an over sized fuse the wiring cam burn to protect the fuse - BAD. I would replace that 30 with a twenty.

You can unplug the starter circuit relay behind the instrument panel on the far (drivers) left side and the ignitor with many wires on the far (drivers) right. Then try the start button with the ignition on. If the fuse blows, there is a short to ground in the yellow/red wire from the the start button to the relay and ignitor. Find it.
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post #12 of 14 Old 07-29-2019, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Great advice. Thank you! Had jury duty this past week so couldn't get to it. Will tear into it this weekend.

I also realized that one of the things I did before this started happening was that I put in a new spark plug but because I'm an idiot and a new wrencher did not gap the spark plug. Could that be the cause?? Either way I'll be pulling out the spark plug and gapping it correctly.
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post #13 of 14 Old 07-29-2019, 09:16 PM
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You'll do more harm than good. The plug was properly gapped when it went in. I haven't gapped a new plug since dirt was new, and haven't gapped a used plug since my last car with a mechanical distributor went away.

Tom [email protected]

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post #14 of 14 Old 07-29-2019, 10:30 PM
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I agree with Tom. I have installed many new plugs and I always check the gap, but I have never had to re gap any of them. Find your short problem before even thinking about the plug.

If your main 20 amp fuse only blows when you press the start button, the problem has to be from the start button on out.

I misspoke on some part locations above. The igniter is behind the dash on the far left (kick stand side) with eight wires to it. The starter circuit relay is next to it with four wires. If you disconnect the plugs to both the relay and the igniter and the fuse still blows when you press the start button with the key on, there is a short in the yellow/red wire running from the starter button to the relay and the igniter.

If it doesn't blow, reconnect the relay and press the button. If the fuse then blows, the problem is in the black wire from the starter circuit relay to the main starter relay or inside the main relay. Disconnect the main starter relay to determine if it is the wire or the relay.

Last edited by GoMotor; 07-29-2019 at 10:33 PM.
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