bike died for no reason on highway, dead on road - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 20 Old 08-05-2019, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lineman1234 View Post
I still have a problem,

(NOW IM REALLY AT A LOSS) Went for ride, fine for 50 miles, then bike for no reason started cutting out on highway. It seemed to fix itself for a bit when I hit the starter wile rolling in gear.

When I relax, ill take seat and gas tank off to see if I pinched wire/s, and pull the petcock out to check the screen, and get rid of the vacume type petcock thingy. ( then ill bring it to the dealer)
Any good klr mechanics near the top west part of MN???

Im at a total loss, and any help would be great.
Tom Schmitz will have a better understanding of electrical wizardry than I. Maybe we can get his attention?

The starter button would not be able to energize the starter motor while contacting starter button with bike in gear and clutch fully Engaged, but the button might energize the Yellow/Red wire to the TCBI module.
This might be good reason to involve the K Dealership with their access to the KMC USA warranty Hot-line.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #12 of 20 Old 08-05-2019, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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I went for a ride this morning made it 10 miles. 78 degrease. Ran great and drove it like I stole it. Bike cutted out again with ALL stuff bypassed petcock n clutch n kickstand. But still have to replace neutral switch.
Barely made it home again. Having to hit the starter button to keep it alive. When back. Went in first gear for 5 mn ride round yard and no problem. Let it idle for 10 mns and stays coolish and fan didnt need to kick on.
I love the klr but its driving me nuts. 2018 with 4500 miles on it now.
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post #13 of 20 Old 08-05-2019, 04:31 PM
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lineman1234 that blue crimp connector needs to be upgraded.
It will be a problem at some point down the road.
Either solder and heat shrink or replace it with a heat shrink butt connector.

Terry
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post #14 of 20 Old 08-06-2019, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you, I will fix the connector after I get the electrical problem fixed.
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post #15 of 20 Old 08-06-2019, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Is it probably that I did something to the electrical system, when the bike died from the broken wire. As, again, the neutral light was working and kickstand switch was working before, and bike never wanted to die wile driving down the road.
Being able ( yesterday) to drive it like I stole it down the highway for 10 miles and no problems. Then problems, seems like I may have damaged something in the charging system, as maybe after the 10 miles the batt was topped off and something wasn't happy, and or gets warm and isn't happy. It was fine in first gear when back, around the farm yard and idled fine and started fine.
The neutral switch and kickstand safety went at the same time after the bike died. ( the first time) So could something have surged or the opposite, get damaged from broken neutral.
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post #16 of 20 Old 08-08-2019, 10:10 AM
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I tried to answer this a couple of days ago but I see it did not go through. I have been in a rather rural area with not much in the way of cell bandwidth, Ambleside in the Lake District. Iím now out to the coast at Conwy.

It seems you have several symptoms that come and go and they all came on suddenly. That seems like an intermittent short to me, perhaps affecting the diode matrix.

The y/r wire controls the anti-kickback at low engine rpm. I would think that if that function is going off the reservation that the TCBI is not long for this world. Since those things seldom die I think there must be something else going on.

Neutral switches never die; you donít need to replace it. Itís connector has likely come loose.

I support @pdwestmanís suggestion that the dealer be contacted and a warranty claim started. Nothing that has happened should have happened and thereís no reason to be chasing after weird shit in a year-old bike.
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ďNeither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.Ē -Philip Marlowe

ď'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.Ē -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #17 of 20 Old 08-09-2019, 07:23 AM Thread Starter
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It has to be something I caused. As I didn't think nothing of the black wire with yellow stripe, broken under seat, and used it to test the batt, to make sure batt wasn't dead. ( when I was dead on side of road ) So I sent voltage through the blk with yellow stripe wire, so after that neutral swithch and kickstand safety went bad. I tested the neutral light yesterday by grounding out the wire and light came on, so I must have damaged the switch. ( I have a new one on the way) It runs fine for short trips. Did I damage a diod pack and or something/ when I touched that wire to the positive side of battery, 2 times??
It wont be under warranty, because of what I have done.
What makes it able to come to life when it starts to act up and I hit the starter and it works enough to get me home hitting starter when bike dies out. It looses power, as the tack drops to 0 right away.
Thanks for any sugestions.
I was given a name of a bike mechanic that I will contact soon, but want to eliminate want I can first.
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post #18 of 20 Old 08-09-2019, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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In going over possible causes and what I may have done.
Step one, bike ran as new, no problems, then lost all power going down road.
Step two, wile waiting to be picked up, I took things apart and found I put seat on black wire with yellow stripe, and pinched/broke it.
Step three, I didn't think anything of using the black wire with yellow strip to test the battery by touching it to the positive side, because the other side of it was connected to the neutral. I used the side that goes to the connector.
Step four, when getting it home, I reconnected black wire with yellow stripe, and got power to everything, but starter wouldn't engage. No neutral light on dash, I pulled in clutch, nothing, put up kickstand, bike started and ran, but still no neutral light, put kickstand down, bike died.
I jumped out kickstand and clutch safeties, and went for a ride the first time, 60 miles and stopped at a place, then 10 miles down road bike would loose power, I tried everything, for some reason I hit starter and it came to life and had to keep doing that to get it home. Played with what I could, and took it for a ride and it lasted 10 miles and same dying out and had to keep hitting starter to get home. When home it idles and can drive around farm yard in first and second with no problems.
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post #19 of 20 Old 08-09-2019, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
...............................................

Neutral switches never die; you donít need to replace it. Itís connector has likely come loose.

.................................................. ......................................
Just a minor point here. Neutral switches almost never die, but I had one with intermittent loss of continuity to ground from the connector pin while in neutral. A new neutral switch solved the problem. I really dislike intermittent problems and doubt the neutral switch is involved here.

Just short the green neutral switch to ground for a while to see if the problem remains or not.
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post #20 of 20 Old 08-10-2019, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. It has to be that I burnt neutral switch out, as it worked before I caused a problem. grounding the wire connected to the switch lights up the dash light, so switch is bad. I have a new one coming. I went for a 80 mile ride yesterday and no problems.. I have the kickstand and clutch safeties bypassed very well, as I didn't the first time I bypassed them, and the petcock vac system is deleted.
Ill be on the bike all day today, so I hopefully fixed all I did. This klr is a learning experience.
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