bike died for no reason on highway, dead on road - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 20 Old 08-03-2019, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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bike died for no reason on highway, dead on road

I have a new 2018 with 4200 miles on it. It has been good so far. Yesterday going down the highway at 5000 rpm the bike just died. Not out of fuel and no electrical at all. No horn, blinkers, nothing. Looked at it this morning. changed the 20 amp fuse below the main fuse, and then I had horn and blinkers and head and tail light. But bike wouldn't start, and no neutral light on the dash with the bike in neutral. Starter wouldn't turn. Pulled in clutch, nothing, lifted kickstand and with clutch pulled in the bike starts and runs, soon as I put the kickstand down, bike dies.
Did the neutral switch take out the fuse. I tried testing it, but my volt meter isn't playing nice on ohms today.
The bike is still under warranty, but I hate to load it and bring it to the dealer.
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post #2 of 20 Old 08-03-2019, 05:44 PM
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The green neutral switch wire is in front of and the switch is below the engine sprocket. Have you disturbed the wires in that area, doing a sprocket change?

The fuse in the rubber holster is the Spare! The main fuse is under the RED clip, gotta squeeze both triggers to release the Red Clip, correct?

Check the bundle of wires between the RH edge of the fuel tank & the coolant reservoir bracket. They really should have routed that bundle In-Front of the bracket & Above the horn!

Yes the Gen 2's always die with a Down kickstand. Unless you simply cut the (replaceable stand switch) wires and crimp them together.

pdwestman
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Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #3 of 20 Old 08-04-2019, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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The neutral switch wire hasn't been cut or disturbed. Ill try to ohms it again today. I did do more research and the fuse on the bottom is a spare. ( it is very strange that when I pulled the spare out and put a new one in its place, that I got power) The main fuse didn't blow. I don't know it was the spare, then, when checking it out yesterday, I got power to every thing but no neutral light. And needed clutch in and kick stand up to start it. For the clutch bypass I ground down a mini fuse and stuffed it in and taped up both ends. For the kickstand bypass, I stuffed tinfoil in it and tapped up both ends. I went for a 60 mile ride yesterday and no problems. But need to see if neutral light switch is bad or the bulb burnt out. Ill check the bundle of wires that you suggested. Before this incident, I was always able to start the bike with kickstand down and no clutch in with neutral light on.
Thank you for your input. It still worries me that it just died and lost total power and I still cant find a reason why it did that. Neutral switch and or bulb and kickstand switch going at the same time seem odd, and bike just dying going 80 seems odd.
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post #4 of 20 Old 08-04-2019, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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OK,, so today tested the neutral switch and it reads the same in neutral or in gear, so its probably broken. Today bike wont start but did 60 miles fine yesterday. Horn, blinkers all stuff works but starter wont fire. clutch and kickstand jumped out.
Will a bad neutral switch not let the starter engage??? Starter wont kick in in gear or in neutral.
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post #5 of 20 Old 08-04-2019, 11:45 AM Thread Starter
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Just found and answered my own question. After calming down and having a beverage or 2, I retraced yesterdays steps. I found it on my first check. The mini fuse I ground down to jump the clutch out pulled out. So I found something that fits tight and is the same size as the male end of the plug. Bike fires right up.
Ill call the Kawie dealer Tuesday and see if they will warranty a new neutral switch without me bringing the bike in.
Im really good at finding and fixing AC high and secondary voltage problems. BUT this KLR is letting me know who is in charge.
I cant wait to see what I mess up when I do the do.
thanks for help and sorry to waist any ones time.
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post #6 of 20 Old 08-04-2019, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineman1234 View Post
The mini fuse I ground down to jump the clutch out pulled out. So I found something that fits tight and is the same size as the male end of the plug. Bike fires right up.
Ill call the Kawie dealer Tuesday and see if they will warranty a new neutral switch without me bringing the bike in.
Congratulations on getting your bike running, but . . . l lost lock-on, regarding the explanation of the problem! Just, ME, I reckon!

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #7 of 20 Old 08-04-2019, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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I still have a problem, I just barley made it home, just now.
First thing was bike died for no reason on highway. Next day I did something (I don't know what), and found bad neutral switch, and kickstand safety went, jumped that stuff out and fine, except no neutral light on the dash. (SO) went for 60 mile ride yesterday, no problems, today it wouldn't start, found my jumper I did,, pulled out, on clutch jumper, made new one, bike started and ran great.
When I put the crash bars on I created a vacume leak for the petcock thing that needs vacume to let fuel flow. that still may be a problem. But wouldn't cause total electrical to shut down, and not have a burnt fuse.
(NOW IM REALLY AT A LOSS) Went for ride, fine for 50 miles, then bike for no reason started cutting out on highway. It seemed to fix itself for a bit when I hit the starter wile rolling in gear. I tried reserve and every thing I could think of. It seemed to run good for 20 miles keeping speed and rpms down, then acted up again. ( I am no mechanic and cant figure out why hitting the starter made it come to life wile in gear coasting with key on )
It is under warranty, but it is probably something I did putting the crash bars on and or the rear bags. I probably pinched a wire or something. bike ran perfect before I touched it, but It only had 600 miles on it till I added stuff. Now has 4,400 ish.
When I relax, ill take seat and gas tank off to see if I pinched wire/s, and pull the petcock out to check the screen, and get rid of the vacume type petcock thingy. ( then ill bring it to the dealer)
Any good klr mechanics near the top west part of MN???
Im at a total loss, and any help would be great.
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post #8 of 20 Old 08-05-2019, 08:42 AM
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I would agree about looking for a pinched wire before you take it in to the dealer. If you pinched a wire, they won't be able to warranty the repair. I haven't had my 2018 KLR that long but I have found a few things. It will start and run in neutral with the kick stand down. But will turn off if you put it in gear.
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post #9 of 20 Old 08-05-2019, 10:04 AM
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When it comes to potential warranty coverage, the more the owner messes with anything the more the shop will have to double check to see if/how the owner created the problem. If they find the problem to be owner induced all the labor time and repair parts will be Owner Expense!

Have you added any accessories? Have you had the fuel tank off? Have you had the upper fairing off? Have you spliced into any wires, any where, for any reason?

pdwestman
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post #10 of 20 Old 08-05-2019, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, thanks to all. ( I need 2 man-up again for the second or third time now )
THE PROBLEMS, WITH 2 PICKS AT THE BOTTOM.
1, when the bike died on the highway. I did not mention that a black wire got pinched and separated, a neutral wire. Its in a pick coming off the batt, with a blue splice in it now. ( That kills all the power if cut or one unplugs the conector. That's why the bike got power after I got it home and spliced it.
2, don't know why the neutral switch and side stand switch went bad at the same time the wire broke.
3, jumped out kickstand and clutch safeties and next day clutch one as stated needed a better jumper.
4, Yesterday, barley made it home on a 100 mile ride. Took it all apart today. Found a kinked vac hose ( in pick below). I did a tank pet cock delete, by taking it apart and removing O ring and grinding 1/2 inch off the part that O ring goes on and put it back on. ( no leaks). ( Wont have a vac/fuel problem again). Before putting seat back on I started bike, ran fine. shut bike off, unplugged the wire I broke, and turned key on and no electrical. Plugged it back in all is well, except need a new neutral switch.
If I was to leave the vac pet cock stuff on, I would get steel braided lines and hose clamps, and not have to worry about a kinked hose.
( going for a ride now ) lets see what I did this time taking it apart and putting it back together. ha ha ...
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