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Foot pegs???

19K views 36 replies 12 participants last post by  subtletea 
#1 ·
I am interested in Tusk Billet or IMS Pro Series. If you know of something else in the $60-80 range that you like please tell me about them.?? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
You might check the price of Moose Racing 1/2" Rear Set foot pegs available from Parts Unlimited. The 'centered' build of the others may cramp your boot toe space TOO much to achieve normal up-shifting.

I've also read good things about the Knight Design, Down & Back off-set pegs.

Also the JNS Engineering, Down & Back footpeg Brackets.
 
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#4 ·
my footpeg post;


the stock pegs are garbage and I heartily recommend replacing them BUT the stock peg brackets are too far forward and too tall and most aftermarket pegs exacerbate the issue by being wider and taller yet.....this leads to a hearty aftermarket for longer shift levers (which stick out farther and have an additional risk of case damage)
There are several ways of addressing this ergo issue, you can use the pegs of your choice plus;

- 1) plate style drop peg brackets. some are straight down, some are on an angle to position the pegs back. Cheap but they reduce ground clearance and are now the new lowest point - not good when trying to skid the bike over a log etc. ....they also cover the linkage bolt http://www.ebay.ca/itm/KLR-650-Foot-...5VFcei&vxp=mtr

- 2) you can modify the stock peg mounts by cutting and rewelding them in the proper position. Cheap and works great as long as you have the equipment, skills and time

- 3) You can use the JNS peg relocation brackets. Only downside I see is that you now need to remove the brackets to pull the linkage bolt. ...they are more $$ than the other two options. http://www.jnsengineering.com/produc...ring-brackets/ NOTE: I have heard that the drop on the JNS’s is too much for some people’s set up.

OR


- you can use the Knight Designs drop pegs. I have them on both my KLR and love them. Hi quality billet pegs, light and strong. Not real cheap though. About KD Foot Pegs


Cheers,
Dave
 
#5 ·
Thanks Dave, I already bought the Happy Trails long shifter so I will see how that goes. Just need to make a choice on pegs at this point. If I find that I need to do something else I will deal with that at that time. I would venture to say I will be at least 2 to 1 driving on pavement over dirt, but I hope it is more even than that!
 
#6 ·
I think if I were going to install lowered pegs, I would first replace the thin light duty stock nuts inside the mounting brackets for the pegs. They are already prone to strip and with the extra leverage and lower ground clearance of lowered pegs are even more likely to strip out.
 
#8 · (Edited)
I bought a pair of Krator type pegs off Ebay for about $20 and I love them. Yes they are made in China but so is almost everything. These same pegs are sold by a bunch of sellers for between $11 -$150 dollars but don't be fooled they all come from from the same factory. They are made of cast aluminum and have good footing and the foot bed is 3"x 2" and they came with pins and springs. If you're tempted to go with the expensive brand name just pinch yourself and remember you have a KLR not a BMW.
 

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#12 ·
Yep; common problem as the stock nuts only catch by 3-4 threads.....a problem made worse by most centerstands. Common fixes:

- helicoils - work great until they don't......some people have had good luck
- welding - more than a bit cheezy but works
- there are a number of ways to replace the nuts with something better, but here's my top pick courtesy of Paul and Tom; https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/fixing-stripped-foot-peg-boxes


Dave
 
#15 ·
The carefully drilled, oiled, re-tapped threads in the existing thin nuts should be about 30-50% stronger also than the original 8mm. Partly because with 10mm, the threads will be cut into the original metal of the mount box, not just the thin inner nuts. :)
 
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#16 ·
I had the same issue - stripped foot peg bolts - and I did the fix that Superdoo recommended; essentially, drilling out the old nuts, replacing them with 10 mm nuts & bolts from the local hardware store, welding them in and grinding it flush. I'm really happy with the way it turned out and it's a permanent fix.

The guy who did the welding mentioned that he's done this exact same procedure around a dozen times, so don't feel alone!
 
#23 ·
I missed this post (and the rest of the thread!) while I was gone.

@KLR Kool-Aid!, is there any chance that you have pictures of the repair? Even an 'after' photo of the foot-peg boxes would be helpful.

Thanks!
 
#19 ·
"need" is subjective.....probably not. I'm 52 and have slowed down some but I still ride my KLR's on offroad trails and other places that most don't and I want stuff to hold up so what is right to me is overkill for others.....

Many have had luck with drilling and retapping or helicoils and you probably will too.

Cheers,
Dave
 
#20 ·
I bought a pair of Krator type pegs off Ebay for about $20 and I love them. Yes they are made in China but so is almost everything. These same pegs are sold by a bunch of sellers for between $11 -$150 dollars but don't be fooled they all come from from the same factory. They are made of cast aluminum and have good footing and the foot bed is 3"x 2" and they came with pins and springs.
Are the foot peg mounting brackets the same on all years? Just want to check as I cannot find these same ones on Aussie e-bay. Most of the Chinese ones mention suitable up to 2005 & don't come with pins or springs. I would like to improve the pegs on my 2016 but can't justify paying around $250 for pivot pegz. Would happily use the dimensions as a guide. VTWoodchuck is your KLR a gen2?

Thanks
Grant.
 
#22 ·
You mean IMS Super Stock pegs? They may look virtually the same but that would be all. IMS Super Sport pegs are stainless steel the ones you are talking about a steel. I am willing to bet they are nowhere near the same quality, will they work, yes, but not even close quality wise.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Yep, I meant to say "Super Sport, my brain must have been misfiring at 12:30 am. However IMS makes two versions of the Super Sport peg under two different part numbers. The older, but still available IMS Super Stock #277317 is the one that is virtually identical to the eBay pegs. I think you are thinking of the newer IMS Super Sport Pro #273116. I attacked pictures of the 3 pegs below. The first are the eBay pegs. the second are the the IMS #277317, the third are the IMS #273116. Cheers

Kev
 

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#30 ·
It kind of depends on the design of the tap. Its apparently deep enough to thread a 8 x1.25 Helicoil re-tap into, which incidentally is ever So Close to the same Diameter as a true 10 x 1.25 tap it ain't funny. If the tap has a non-essential pointy tip on it, they can be blunted/squared-off on with a grinder.

I can see about 5-6 mm of space between the frame rail & the backside of the stock captured nuts on my bike. Thats about 3-4 threads of available protrusion.
That should be enough space for most 10 x 1.25 taps to fully cut the threads.
 
#31 · (Edited)
I put a very small hex key in the crack between the sides of the mounting box and measured 1/4' clear between the back of the nut and the frame tube.

Then I used a piece of 1/8" stock and drilled the 11/32" hole recommended for the 10M x 1.25 pitch tap in it. Then I ran the tap in until 3/16" came out the other side. Then I screwed a 10M x 1.25 bolt in the hole. It went completely through by hand.

Thanks for your suggestion to measure the clearance through that little crack that I had not noticed.

While looking for a 10M tap I went to the Fastenall store I usually go to for fasteners larger than I think Ace Hardware would have. I was surprised to find a large sign on the door that said "NO INDIVIDUAL SALES - ONLY CONTRACTORS WITH ACCOUNTS". Fortunately Ace had the 10M tap.
 
#33 ·
i have the ims pro series. fits well. spring can be puzzling but it takes a couple of fitting test to find how to put spring. good grip
I have the same or similar pegs. I ground the teeth on the outside tips down because sometimes when I came to a stop and put a foot down my pant legs would hang up on the teeth and I couldn't get my foot down. This could cause you to fall in front of the car in the next lane over at a multi-lane stop light.
 
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