Looking for ignition switch guidance - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 15 Old 08-21-2019, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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Looking for ignition switch guidance

Greetings, New to the forum. Bought a new 2018 KLR to add to the fleet of bikes and vehicles. Have a question concerning the ignition switch. Looking to do some modifications however I've ran into a road block.Have on order and waiting to receive the shop manual thought I might ask the forum members. The ignition switch has a constant 12 volts coming from the main fuse on the white wire. There's a switched 12 volts from the ignition switch on the brown wire. Then there's two additional wires (black/yellow and black/white) which control the eCDI portion. On the switch side (black/yellow and black/white) has around 90 ohms when the ignition is turned on and goes to a short condition when the ignition is off. Measured voltage at each of the wires and found black/white to have around 1.35 volts and black/yellow to have close to zero volts (to be anticipated due to black/yellow being grounded to the frame). So on to my question; does anyone have knowledge of the ignition switch and the actual circuitry contained within the ignition switch for the black/yellow and black/white wires?

Thanks,

Chris
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post #2 of 15 Old 08-21-2019, 07:30 PM
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2008 ("Generation 2") wiring diagram on Internet.

Also . . . if I'm not mistaken, an ignition switch logic matrix is posted on this forum, along with, "All you ever wanted to know about the Generation 2, but were afraid to ask" cheat sheet, posted by Tom Schmitz.

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-21-2019, 10:13 PM
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There is a 100-ohm resistor soldered across the terminals of the ignition switch plate. The resistor is not mentioned in the manual nor does it appear on the wiring diagram.

Tom [email protected]

“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #4 of 15 Old 08-22-2019, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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I assumed, due to my measurements, there was a resistor in / on the ignition switch. Voltage on the black white supposed to be 12 V? Read the ignition has changed a tad bit - no longer grounded to shut it off - is now shut off via cutting the power.

Thanks,

Chris
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-22-2019, 05:15 PM
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I'd love to help you out with this, but I can't. I have a Gen 2 but I installed a Gen 1 ignition.

When I was mucking about getting a kick-starter installed on the Gen 2 ignition I did a lot of weird-science stuff, but it was with an igniter on the bench. You can read about it in the first several posts in this thread: https://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650...oes-again.html. I never took on-the-bike readings of the igniter pinout.

All I can offer is that, yeah, it's probably supposed to be that way since it's a brand-new bike and all, but I can't go to my bike and take the measurement. I did have to remove that resistor when I converted to a Gen 1 ignition system.

What is it that you are trying to do?

Tom [email protected]

“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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post #6 of 15 Old 08-22-2019, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisb009 View Post
I assumed, due to my measurements, there was a resistor in / on the ignition switch. Voltage on the black white supposed to be 12 V? Read the ignition has changed a tad bit - no longer grounded to shut it off - is now shut off via cutting the power.

Thanks,

Chris
You're right about the kill mechanism: Generation 1, ground AC to CDI, both kill switch and ignition off; Generation 2, interrupt 12 VDC to ignition coil (I think; no speeka much Generation 2).

I am aware . . . Generation 1 has CDI ignition, basically, a capacitive ignition system; Generation 2 has "Fully-Transistorized Breakerless Ignition," basically, an inductive ignition system.

I share Tom Schmitz's curiosity; what are you trying to do?

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-23-2019, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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Main goal is to change the key switch to a non-working element. I would like to add a hidden button that can be triggered via proximity; very similar to the push button ignitions found in today's automobiles. The road block is understanding the current design of the ignition switch without ripping it completely apart.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-23-2019, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by chrisb009 View Post
Main goal is to change the key switch to a non-working element. I would like to add a hidden button that can be triggered via proximity; very similar to the push button ignitions found in today's automobiles. The road block is understanding the current design of the ignition switch without ripping it completely apart.
I'd think a Generation 2 wiring diagram would be your friend; however . . . don't know how you'd sort out the logic matrix (as in, Park, etc.) with the system you propose.

I don't know how these proximity systems work; Hall Effect switching relays? Got 'em on the kickstand kill mechanisms of my KTMs, but not on any ignition activating systems on any vehicles I own.

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-23-2019, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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The wiring diagram is not providing much information. When I disconnect the Black/White wire from the wiring connector, that leads to the ignition switch, the bike doesn't start with the key in the run position. With the Black/White wire connected as original the bike does start with the key in the run position. So I'm a little perplexed as the wiring diagram shows the Black/White is not electrically connected to the Black/Yellow wire while in the run position. However testing reveals otherwise. I believe there may be additional elements (100 ohm resistor to ground for the CDI portion) in the picture that precludes the would be thief from simply cutting (opening circuits) and shorting a few wires to hot wire the bike. As far as the proximity start it's a simple board with a few relays and a RF transceiver to detect the key fob. Very easy to fab up - just need to make sure it's somewhat secure so a would be thief cannot easily pick up and decode the RF transmissions between the key fob and main module on the bike.
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-23-2019, 08:47 PM
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If you're not in a BFH I can do a "How to take it apart and put it back together" post as I did on the Gen 1 switch.

I believe that the switch is just as shown in the wiring diagram save for the unshown 100Ω resistor* that gets switched in between Bk/W and Bk/Y, but I'll verify that and draw up a DPST-type diagram that shows it.

Mimicking that switch in a proximity box should be quite simple, as you say.

Probably couldn't get to it for a week. I'm up to my elbows in both the Juki DNU-1541 and making hot KLR oil.

*I have always thought it was hilarious that KHI put that resistor in to foil the thieves and figured that they would keep it a secret by not including it in the wiring diagram. Every miscreant with any thought of stealing bikes came from the womb knowing that trick.

Tom [email protected]

“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


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