Bike overheating & dying - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #11 of 57 Old 08-25-2019, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Got it, thanks! Appreciate the link. I'll read through and see what I can find
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post #12 of 57 Old 08-25-2019, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I'll suggest that there is a strong possibility that the coolant pump impeller nut may be loose and the impeller is slipping on the shaft. Even though you may see coolant circulating when you had the radiator cap off of a fairly cool & slightly low radiator to look for flow, it may not be a swift as need be.

Also the impeller may be missing the small shim Behind the impeller, which changes the clearance between the impeller vanes and the pump cover. The Impeller has an o-ring inside of it, so the impeller Must Be screwed over the threaded shaft to prevent damage to the o-ring during removal & re-installation to check for the shim.

Impeller nut is ONLY 87 inch pounds, be careful. And is common RH thread.
Tomorrow I'm going to take off the water pump cover and see what's going on. I'll report back!
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post #13 of 57 Old 08-25-2019, 05:48 PM
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Vacuum fuel tap is starting to go

the cooling system sounds like a typical KLR


Quote:
Originally Posted by ladytraute View Post
Hi everyone,

I've scoured the internetz for answers on this and basically took my bike apart top to bottom. Not sure what the issue is yet but would def appreciate your thoughts on this issue.

Details: '09 KLR650, recently acquired used (was fine during purchasing, only recently started acting up). Recently, when out riding on city streets, idling at stoplights, etc., my bike temp gauge will start to rapidly move towards the red zone and eventually cut out completely. Like, I can visibly see it moving upwards which makes me die a little inside, lol. I can restart it again while rolling and giving it some choke and gas but it keeps up with the dying every few minutes. It dies while stopped, while moving, doesn't seem to matter. Fan kicks on fine.

So far, I've:
Replaced air filter, oil filter, oil change, topped off coolant in radiator and in overflow, cleaned and rebuilt carb, seafoam in gas tank, new radiator fan and fuse (fan wasn't turning on, I think the motor was bad), new spark plug.

I've ordered a new thermostat water temp sensor, new thermostat, and new radiator fan switch (I think the old one is fine though since the fan turns on, replacing it anyway cuz new parts!) and will replace all those this week. I've burped the radiator and the coolant circles fine.

Tomorrow I'm going to take the cover off the water pump and see if it's moving properly. Does anyone have any other ideas on what to tackle next if the new sensors and thermostat don't fix the overheating and dying issue? TIA! And sorry if this is repetitive. I searched through most of the hundreds of threads here related to overheating and nobody seemed to have the dying issue like I'm having.
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post #14 of 57 Old 08-25-2019, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JdgDReDD View Post
Vacuum fuel tap is starting to go

the cooling system sounds like a typical KLR
You mean the petcock?
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post #15 of 57 Old 08-25-2019, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ladytraute View Post
You mean the petcock?
Even if that's what is meant . . . don't see connection with engine temperature management. If at nominal rpm, vacuum should be maintained sufficiently to open fuel diaphragm, precluding fuel starvation as the cause of engine dying.

Don't know of any mechanism designed to shut down motor if excessively hot; thought they'd just run on and melt the babbit from the bearings under overheating conditions, unless the engine is shut down.

Corrections and clarifications sought and welcomed.

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post #16 of 57 Old 08-25-2019, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Even if that's what is meant . . . don't see connection with engine temperature management. If at nominal rpm, vacuum should be maintained sufficiently to open fuel diaphragm, precluding fuel starvation as the cause of engine dying.

Don't know of any mechanism designed to shut down motor if excessively hot; thought they'd just run on and melt the babbit from the bearings under overheating conditions, unless the engine is shut down.

Corrections and clarifications sought and welcomed.
I'd like clarification too...I don't really understand the correlation
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post #17 of 57 Old 08-25-2019, 09:22 PM
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Do you see coolant in the reservoir on the right-hand side of the bike? That's a fair indicator that there is sufficient coolant in the engine.

Good idea to take a look at the impellor.

If that checks out good, try draining the coolant and doing the garden hose thing to check for blockage.

If coolant is in there and is flowing properly then it cannot be overheating. Thus, it is either not there or not flowing.

Typical operation is that it heats up at a stoplight and cools down once underway. It should not run hot when moving.

Without a Thermo-Bob the temperature gauge will swing from cold to hot after sitting at a stoplight and when moving again it will go down to just a bit above the "C".

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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-25-2019 at 09:25 PM.
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post #18 of 57 Old 08-25-2019, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Do you see coolant in the reservoir on the right-hand side of the bike? That's a fair indicator that there is sufficient coolant in the engine.

Good idea to take a look at the impellor.

If that checks out good, try draining the coolant and doing the garden hose thing to check for blockage.

If coolant is in there and is flowing properly then it cannot be overheating. Thus, it is either not there or not flowing.

Typical operation is that it heats up at a stoplight and cools down once underway. It should not run hot when moving.

Without a Thermo-Bob the temperature gauge will swing from cold to hot after sitting at a stoplight and when moving again it will go down to just a bit above the "C".
Yes, full coolant in the reservoir. Or at least, there was last week when I filled it. Before, it was about half way full.

No leaks of any kind, btw. The bike sits on pavement and I haven't seen any drips.

I don't have a garden hose nearby (my shop is a storage unit) but I'm going to ride it to a friend's house and test that idea. Thanks!

I'd love to put a thermo bob on it, I'm planning to once I figure out this problem. Figured I'd take it one step at a time..
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post #19 of 57 Old 08-26-2019, 06:20 AM
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still sounds like the vacuum tap


I think the engine temp issues are a separate issue, the bike would run until it boiled over not quit due to temperature needle going too high.

If the fan comes on and the bike doesn't boil over .....

the vacuum fuel valve is where i'd start. Convert it to a manual tap




Quote:
Originally Posted by ladytraute View Post
Hi everyone,

I've scoured the internetz for answers on this and basically took my bike apart top to bottom. Not sure what the issue is yet but would def appreciate your thoughts on this issue.

Details: '09 KLR650, recently acquired used (was fine during purchasing, only recently started acting up). Recently, when out riding on city streets, idling at stoplights, etc., my bike temp gauge will start to rapidly move towards the red zone and eventually cut out completely. Like, I can visibly see it moving upwards which makes me die a little inside, lol. I can restart it again while rolling and giving it some choke and gas but it keeps up with the dying every few minutes. It dies while stopped, while moving, doesn't seem to matter. Fan kicks on fine.

So far, I've:
Replaced air filter, oil filter, oil change, topped off coolant in radiator and in overflow, cleaned and rebuilt carb, seafoam in gas tank, new radiator fan and fuse (fan wasn't turning on, I think the motor was bad), new spark plug.

I've ordered a new thermostat water temp sensor, new thermostat, and new radiator fan switch (I think the old one is fine though since the fan turns on, replacing it anyway cuz new parts!) and will replace all those this week. I've burped the radiator and the coolant circles fine.

Tomorrow I'm going to take the cover off the water pump and see if it's moving properly. Does anyone have any other ideas on what to tackle next if the new sensors and thermostat don't fix the overheating and dying issue? TIA! And sorry if this is repetitive. I searched through most of the hundreds of threads here related to overheating and nobody seemed to have the dying issue like I'm having.
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post #20 of 57 Old 08-26-2019, 06:31 AM
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Yes the fuel petcock is vacuum operated. If it starts leaking around the center post of the diaphragm it can cause symptoms like this. Basically the bike runs until the float bowl is empty then quits. Let it sit for a few minutes and it'll start and run until the float bowl is empty again.

the failing vacuum tap allows enough fuel to leak past filling the carb back up when it sits for a few minutes


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Originally Posted by ladytraute View Post
You mean the petcock?
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