Bike overheating & dying - Page 6 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #51 of 57 Old 09-06-2019, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89a3 View Post
Glad it is fixed.

Yes, KLRs run hot. Totally normal for the temp to shoot up and the fan to come on when stopped at the lights. But the temp drops very quickly once moving again.

I had a similar experience. The bike would run for a couple of miles then cut out. After 5 minutes it would start again and away you go. A few miles later it cut out again. Again and again.
I had the vacuum/return/fuel hose (the relevant one of them, it was a while ago) kinked and closed off. As soon as that was freed up the bike ran normally.

Another possible cause for this sort of situation is a battery in its final stages of life. Battery works fine when starting and running initially but then heats up and the electrical output drops. Bike stops. This happened on a Suzi but with the KLR battery mounted in its little oven (best way I can think of describing it) this could happen.

Enjoy, it's a great bike.
Yeah, sounds about what I was going through. Turning the petcock into a manual one seemed to be the trick, I possibly could've troubleshooted the original petcock more to find out exactly what was wrong, but I was in a hurry because of a bike camping trip last weekend. lol

Good to remember re: the battery, I will keep an eye on it.

So loving the KLR - rode sport bikes for years and this is like a bajillion times more fun. Enjoying it so much! It just goes, I took it on some rocky dirt roads last weekend and it scrambled around like no big deal. So awesome
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post #52 of 57 Old 09-06-2019, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ladytraute View Post
Yes, so I've learned! I want to put the thermo-bob on not due to the heat issue, but more so because it's a good temp regulator. I like doing a lot of off roady things and it can be in cold or hot weather, so think it would just be a good overall idea. Do you advise against it?
The Thermo-Bob stabilizes coolant temperature more thoroughly, and operates at a higher nominal coolant temperature than the stock system. As in the physicians' Hippocratic Oath, in my view, a properly-installed Thermo-Bob follows the dictum, "First, do no harm."

My riding partner (100,000 miles on an '08 KLR 650) LOVES his Thermo-Bob. Your choice entirely whether YOU want one or not. My previous comment was meant only to disabuse you of the notion or expectation the Thermo-Bob enhanced engine cooling.

The Thermo-Bob, in my view, is competently designed and manufactured; also, ethically marketed. Again, your choice!

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #53 of 57 Old 09-06-2019, 06:51 PM
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I would minimum do the .22 cent mod #1, just doing this will really help your engine not try to burn itself down.

THen:

I would suggest that the doohickey update is more important than a thermo bob. The thermo bob is more of an improvement than a MUST.

(even with a thermo bob your temp will rise in heavy traffic, it just doesn't fall as far or as fast, the thermo bob changes the thermostat from a 160 to 195 degree) and then keeps the temp there. In traffic the fan WILL come on. It is very quiet and you may not notice it, but it SHOULD come on.

If you want to cheat for now, drill a 1/16th hole in the outer ring of the stock thermostat (inside the sealing area). Then position that to the top during installation. This will help keep the coolant moving as that is a major problem with the cooling system is the hot spots due to the lack of coolant movement around the thermostat and then the rapid drop in temp when the thermostat finally opens.

I did the pro cycle by pass kit then necked down the elbow for the by pass to a 2 mm bypass instead of 1/4 ", my temp needle is rock solid even in the cool weather up here in Canada. I can even tell when the engine case is up to temp not just the cylinder and head. I also did the Mod MY WAY and didn't even have to remove the fuel tank or one shroud and it only took about .5 hrs and i don't have a big external thermostat housing hovering close to the radiator fan being held back by a ny tie under the fuel tank ....

Oh, i put the thermo bob2 thermostat (195 deg) in my modified pro cycle by pass (180 degree) ... going to hell for sure .





And for all you nay sayers out ther (westman lol), the air bled out fine even with the hose routed under the front engine mount, and the by pass hose running past the exhaust hasnt been an issue (high grade silicon hose). Was going to use some adhesive foil on it but doesn't seem to be an issue at all.

Man i need to update the stock skid plate, already got the low pro drain plug. Lady you need the EM low pro drain plug if you like to skip over stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ladytraute View Post
It's been fine. Heats up a tad when stopped at a light or whatever but from my readings, appears that KLRs run warm. A thermo-bob is my next mod planned!

Last edited by JdgDReDD; 09-06-2019 at 07:12 PM.
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post #54 of 57 Old 09-06-2019, 08:06 PM
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JdgDReDD,
The stock oem 160F thermostat already has a 1mm x 3mm oval air bleed in the outer flange of the thermostat body. No need to make it larger or add additional, imo.
And the factory 'usually' gets them installed with the 'air-bleed' up.

The Thermo-Bob 2 mounts in the same location as your Pro-Cycle radiator by-pass & comes with the 195F thermostat & a spare.
The large body Remote Mounted original Thermo-Bobs are no longer marketed as intended for KLR's.
The T-B 2 does Not work with the IMS 10 gallon fuel tanks, so Watt-man sells a Remote Mounted lower hose Thermo-Bob 3 for that application.

I'm surprised to read that you Modified the Pro-Cycle by-pass to use such a tiny 2mm orifice. You just said that 'flow' is a good thing. A larger flow of 'continuously warming coolant' has proven to be a better thing, at least up to the thermostat set point. Either way, it will stabilize the temp.
There still needs to be a tiny air vent in the top flange of the thermostats to let the air up to the radiator during filling of the system.

The Canadian market KLR650-C series had a coolant flow carb anti-icing system that could easily be converted to a radiator by-pass. The Australian KLR's are still being equipped with carb anti-icing for some unexplained / silly reason. Take note of the 'blank spot' between the hoses on the newer vs older (black paint) coolant pump covers.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 84,000+ miles & counting
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post #55 of 57 Old 09-07-2019, 07:28 AM
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i necked the by pass down to 2 mm because i could watch my temp drastically drop with RPM increase (thermostat verified working). I first went from 1/4 down to 5/16 which helped but still could see temp gauge drop in direct relation to the rpm increase. This caused my temp needle to run at the bottom of the gauge when the ambient air temp was below 60, above 55 or 60 it was good.

Going to 2 mm stopped this and still provides A LOT of coolant movement to even out the hot spots and keep the thermostat working properly.

If you figure it out, how fast is the coolant moving with only 1.5 L capacity (including overflow tank) through a 1/4 " hole being pushed by a pump. With a 2 mm hole, the gauge needle is rock solid.

good info on thermo bob can you tell me if the thermo bob 3 is 1/4 ' flow line and is it necked down anywhere? It just about has to be if you don't experience the temperature drops.

PS Doing the 22 cent mod cools the engine off a lot. Nearly negating the need for a thermo by pass, the improper jetting is the main problem with the cylinder/head running too hot. The thermo by pass is still a good idea, but on a properly jetted bike it is an improvement not a must. IMo

Fact that the stock thermostat has a by pass hole is great. which i forgot.

These kits (thermo bob and procycle) should be called "Radiator & Thermostat By Pass Kit" (thinking out loud)

Why the Carb heater is on Aussie bikes and not Canadian bikes is beyond me, I may have to install it if I experience carb icing. Which i'm sure i will. This i've already considered.

Do the doohickey first

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
JdgDReDD,
The stock oem 160F thermostat already has a 1mm x 3mm oval air bleed in the outer flange of the thermostat body. No need to make it larger or add additional, imo.
And the factory 'usually' gets them installed with the 'air-bleed' up.

The Thermo-Bob 2 mounts in the same location as your Pro-Cycle radiator by-pass & comes with the 195F thermostat & a spare.
The large body Remote Mounted original Thermo-Bobs are no longer marketed as intended for KLR's.
The T-B 2 does Not work with the IMS 10 gallon fuel tanks, so Watt-man sells a Remote Mounted lower hose Thermo-Bob 3 for that application.

I'm surprised to read that you Modified the Pro-Cycle by-pass to use such a tiny 2mm orifice. You just said that 'flow' is a good thing. A larger flow of 'continuously warming coolant' has proven to be a better thing, at least up to the thermostat set point. Either way, it will stabilize the temp.
There still needs to be a tiny air vent in the top flange of the thermostats to let the air up to the radiator during filling of the system.

The Canadian market KLR650-C series had a coolant flow carb anti-icing system that could easily be converted to a radiator by-pass. The Australian KLR's are still being equipped with carb anti-icing for some unexplained / silly reason. Take note of the 'blank spot' between the hoses on the newer vs older (black paint) coolant pump covers.

Last edited by JdgDReDD; 09-07-2019 at 08:59 AM.
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post #56 of 57 Old 09-07-2019, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JdgDReDD View Post

PS Doing the 22 cent mod cools the engine off a lot.
How does raising the needle cool the engine? Just askin'.

What comparison data exists between stock needle position and 22-cent mod, temperature-wise?

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #57 of 57 Old 09-07-2019, 02:47 PM
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too lean - hotter combustion chamber temp


Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
How does raising the needle cool the engine? Just askin'.

What comparison data exists between stock needle position and 22-cent mod, temperature-wise?
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