Gen 2: Any Handlebar/Handguard combo that doesn't hit fairing, with no bar risers installed? - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 10 Old 08-29-2019, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 59
Gen 2: Any Handlebar/Handguard combo that doesn't hit fairing, with no bar risers installed?

Hey folks,

Has anyone installed a handlebar and 2-mounting-point handguard combination, without bar risers, that allows full lock-to-lock movement without the guards hitting the fairing? I mean with the guards oriented forward, not tilted up or down.

I want the screen in stock configuration, as the screen risers just create buffeting that blurs my eyeballs, and don't mind cutting the screen to get the clearance, but the fairing is another matter! :-)

Thanks!
Yeravener is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 Old 08-29-2019, 11:51 PM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,526
Garage
I have 2" ROX risers, Pro-Taper Pastrana bars, and Highway Dirt Bike guards and they don't hit the stock windscreen. I think a lot o fit has to do with where you prefer your bars to be, fore and aft. Obviously, I could rotate them forward to the point where they do hit the windscreen.

Right-click on the image and select "Open in new tab" if you would like to zoom in.


Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
Tom Schmitz is online now  
post #3 of 10 Old 08-30-2019, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 59
Thanks, Tom!

Yeah, I have the flat mount two-way rox risers on it now and clearance is fine....but I am 5'8" and don't need the risers and would love to ditch them. May not be able to, though....we'll see.

I saw that rack a couple days ago online.....I can see that that design would stabilize the rear rack, big time. It would likely provide sufficient rigidity to get rid of the dynamic oscillation I feel when riding with a loaded topcase. Pretty solid looking.

Love the kickstarter! My basic position is EVERY enduro or offroad MC should have a kickstarter. I am old school, I guess, but I like 100% reliability...and electric starters aren't it. Having both electric and kick is the way to go! Is that an older engine or did you just pull the sidecover, shaft, and gears off an older bike and bolt them on? Way cool.

What brand of tank pannier is that, and are they secure in rough terrain? That's a great way to keep the weight distribution normalized when using rear bags. It looks like they are direct mount to the fairing?
Yeravener is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 Old 08-30-2019, 10:57 AM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,526
Garage
@Yeravener,

I am a believer in the CycleRacks if you want a really strong and stable rack!

The picture is a bit out of date. That tank is the IMS10 with a MOLLE tank cover that I made. I've since gone to an IMS6.6, again with a MOLLE tank cover. I find that the MOLLE approach is very stable and configurable. Changing bags is a bit more difficult than it is on a MOLLE backpack but a bag can be changed or moved in a couple of minutes.

The tank cover for the IMS10 was made out of 1000D Cordura. The cover for the IMS6.6 was made out of ballistic nylon, which is a bit heavier. I made my own because the commercially available ones didn't fit my needs; I needed more acreage ;^). Plus, I'm well-known to be half-stupid and half-stubborn. Check out tankvest.com

Here are some photos of the IMS6.6.










I have since added two bags that go into the gap between the tank and the fairing.

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 08-30-2019 at 11:07 AM.
Tom Schmitz is online now  
post #5 of 10 Old 09-07-2019, 09:20 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 59
Tom,

I ended up pulling my offset Rox risers, putting the SW Motech bar risers (30mm, IIRC) back on, and putting the stock windscreen back on. I also bought a new center cowling, as I had cut the points off. Glad I didn't hack up the stock screen also! The stock screen is the only setup so far, on any of many motorcyces with screens, that doesn't buffet my helmet, shake my head, shake my glasses, and detach my retinas (joking but you get the idea). I need laminar flow over my helmet and the stocker does that for me. The 30mm SWMs get the bar back far enough so the guards clear the screen. They are a smidge too close to me for my liking, but I rotate the bars forward as much as I can with a reasonable hand position and they are definitely workable offroad, as I am only 5'8". This isn't my old WR250F or KTM 450XC with required attack position, after all :-).

Thank you for all the pics and description, Tom! I am mulling tossing the hardbags due to the high weight adversely impacting the handling and am definitely interested in trying to stay reasonably close to the original front/rear weight distribution when loaded...at least as much as possible. This tank vest technology is stone simple (aka reliable) and not too pricey. Though I might have to buy an IMS tank...darn, another farkley purchase required! :-D

Time to sell some parts! haha! Thanks again!
Yeravener is offline  
post #6 of 10 Old 09-07-2019, 10:29 AM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,526
Garage
Keep an eye on your clutch cable. It is the only one that has given me any grief with raised bars. The throttle can be flipped and the choke cable has (had) enough play in it.

If there is any chafing or tightness on the clutch cable, consider Motion Pro's 3" longer version for $12. Buy two, carry a spare you will never need.



There are a lot of MOLLE bags available that are of pretty good quality, though made in China, of course. Trump may have driven prices up...

It seems the paintballers love this tactikool stuff and have created a market for it. I have found plenty of variety at reasonable prices.

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
Tom Schmitz is online now  
post #7 of 10 Old 09-07-2019, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
Keep an eye on your clutch cable. It is the only one that has given me any grief with raised bars. The throttle can be flipped and the choke cable has (had) enough play in it.

If there is any chafing or tightness on the clutch cable, consider Motion Pro's 3" longer version for $12. Buy two, carry a spare you will never need.



There are a lot of MOLLE bags available that are of pretty good quality, though made in China, of course. Trump may have driven prices up...

It seems the paintballers love this tactikool stuff and have created a market for it. I have found plenty of variety at reasonable prices.

Tom,

Thanks for the tips! I flipped my throttle when I first raised the bars, and never found an acceptable solution to the clutch cable.........until............I routed it through the existing two water lines, to the rear of the downtube, around to the left side of the downtube, in between the radiator mount and left side of frame, up in front of the left side upper triple clamp, and to the lever. I zip tied it behind the downtube, to the left of the downtube, and to the left wire loop on the frame near the upper triple clamp (somewhat optional...it was there, so why not). I eliminated the interference caused by the left handguard mount where the cable comes out of the lever. I also eliminated the double 90 degree turns that were required in the stock configuration to go past the frame and under/around/in front of/catching on the ignition. Check out the pics...ridiculous amounts of well controlled slack.

Like you, I had already worn a hole in the original clutch cable because of the nonsensical stock routing (2900 miles now on the bike). I was so pissed from the clutch cable problems I pulled off the KLR lower dash to allow more free cable movement at full right steering lock. Thanks for the links on the cables.....I did check out the longer aftermarket cables, but didn't like the tiny cable ends, or rider reports on the longevity.

I don't know why Kawi didn't route it up the left side. I saw that a forum member had previously done the left side routing, but he routed it up to the rear of the upper triple clamp, which I didn't like. I tried it in front and it worked like a charm.

With this routing, problems totally eliminated. Couldn't be happier. You can see in the pics I am in the process of rewiring the once-again-installed KLR lower dash

Good call on having an extra cable...I do ascribe to the belief/fact that if I have a spare of something I will never need it. FWIW, I learned a long time ago that one can shift in an emergency with no cable by slightly rolling of the throttle, thus unloading the gears, when shifting. The timing has to be right, of course. I have done it in "on the edge" situations with my dirt bikes, usually when I going up insanely steep hills, losing momentum, need to downshift, and cannot pull two fingers of the grip to pull the clutch. I think it is safe to say I will never be in that situation with the KLR! :-D

I am glad the paintballers are all over the vests etcetera...definitely keeps the supply up and prices down! I'm checking it out as my next (lighter) cargo solution. Thanks! :-D
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20190907_110637.jpg (531.4 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20190907_110659.jpg (496.5 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 20190907_110910.jpg (516.2 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 20190907_110716.jpg (491.6 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg 20190907_110812.jpg (507.1 KB, 5 views)

Last edited by Yeravener; 09-07-2019 at 02:04 PM.
Yeravener is offline  
post #8 of 10 Old 09-07-2019, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 59
Oh yeah, I saw an old post where you recommend to a member that they use a conduit when wiring up electronics on the bike, in order to avoid chaffing. I'll be doing that to my KLR lower dash wires and any other wires I add. Thanks for that tip, too!
Yeravener is offline  
post #9 of 10 Old 09-07-2019, 02:32 PM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,526
Garage
@samuel turned me on to some split woven conduit. It comes in some different sizes and has a strong memory for the curled shape. I've always used the closed woven conduit (looks like a Chinese finger puzzle) and have found it to be very tough. I'd expect the same of the split stuff. A good solution for adding after the fact.

Let's see if I can find a link or picture...

Yeah, this is the stuff: https://www.racetronix.biz/product.a...yABEgJj_vD_BwE

Much better than that corrugated PVC stuff.

The jury is out on the Motion Pro cable longevity here, but I have never been disappointed with their stuff. Well, the wheel balancer, but that's more a KLR issue. Works fine on the BMW front wheel.

Tom [email protected]

“Neither of the two people in the room paid any attention to the way I came in, although only one of them was dead.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.

Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 09-07-2019 at 02:34 PM.
Tom Schmitz is online now  
post #10 of 10 Old 09-08-2019, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Elk Grove, CA
Posts: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
@samuel turned me on to some split woven conduit. It comes in some different sizes and has a strong memory for the curled shape. I've always used the closed woven conduit (looks like a Chinese finger puzzle) and have found it to be very tough. I'd expect the same of the split stuff. A good solution for adding after the fact.

Let's see if I can find a link or picture...

Yeah, this is the stuff: https://www.racetronix.biz/product.a...yABEgJj_vD_BwE

Much better than that corrugated PVC stuff.

The jury is out on the Motion Pro cable longevity here, but I have never been disappointed with their stuff. Well, the wheel balancer, but that's more a KLR issue. Works fine on the BMW front wheel.
Nice! That conduit will work perfectly! Thanks for the link and the perspective on the motion pro cables...I'll keep the motion pros in mind if I ever need to play cable yahtzee again....
Yeravener is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome