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705 updates

52K views 302 replies 17 participants last post by  Steve.k 
#1 ·
Im wondering with the 705 kit ,pipe can and updated cams this boosts the klr to nearly 50 rwhp. That's almost the same as a heavier versys or vstrom at rear. Think those bikes mid 60 flywheel. So with my weight 195 I should be close to a 220 lb rider and the extra weight of other two style bikes. Or is the klr still a little hp handicapped?
 
#2 ·
A stone stock KLR650 can get you a speeding ticket in any state in the Union. And a 705 cc kit and its attending labor gets pretty involved. Best to stop at 685 cc & reserve the 692 kit just in-case of a screw-up.

A 685 with properly ported head and Degreed camshafts along with air box mods & a a freer flowing exhaust should satisfy your desire for MORE. Mine is more stock than not.

Read here, https://www.klrchris.com/klr650-small-port-head/
 
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#3 ·
Thanks for post. My nephew is buying the new ktm 790 duke for a long haul to yukon. Although he out weighs me by nearly 30lbs i was hoping to keep his tail light visible. Im used to wrenching on snowmobiles all my life and currently big bored my 2013 summit 800 to a 872.
 
#5 ·
Steve.k, I'll suggest that you take the time to read the rest of klr.chris articles.

And a cross-country tour shouldn't be a race. But yeah, I know some roads just beg to be ridden quickly. But its not how fast one can accelerate out of corners that makes those roads fun with touring gear, its how little one slows down for the curves.

Maybe you ought to consider Cogent Dynamics suspension upgrades to control the touring load, rather than horsepower to accelerate the load?
 
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#6 ·
Yes i know what your saying. Im just saying to make the bikes closer. I read pretty much his whole site. I recently talked to fella who did this yukon run with the 685 kit. He was very happy with the bike. He said it. Ran flawlessly and the extra oomph was great to have. He had A daylong seat on his also.
 
#10 ·
I put a 685 on mine...I honestly cannot tell the difference vs. the original 650. Well, one difference is I no longer have to add oil every 100 miles. And, I suppose it's a bit smoother. But as far as oomph goes...well, the KLR is not known for oomph. If I want to go fast, I ride a different bike.

A KLR makes, what, 35 horsepower or something? So, you jazz it up, and maybe get 40 horses. Not enough to notice..

Slow and steady wins the race many times.

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#13 ·
I was pleased with the 685 I put on my 2008 due to the reduction in vibration, but can't say the extra couple of horsepower were noticeable. If you really want to feel lots of power, get a different bike. But, if you just like working on them as I do, go for it.
 
#14 ·
685 kit plus freed up airbox, slightly cleaned up intake port, opened up stock exhaust, Runs much smoother, and only needs a tiny bit of oil (probably averages 1 ounce per 300 miles) when I run it over 5000 RPM for sustained periods. Somewhat more power, but not anything that would keep a KTM 790 in sight on a long flat straightaway.
With modified windshield & seat, the bike is very comfortable and I could ride 12 hours a day at 75 mph if needed. That’s what puts miles on the clock, not 100 mph with reliability, tires, deer or law enforcement issues.
Suggest you add a 16 tooth countershaft sprocket plus fresh chain and go for it.
 
#15 ·
Just remembered that several years ago I had also done the MC Mod and all the carb enrichment tricks. The MC Mod did make my 2011 much smoother at lower RPMs. At some point in there, after doing a series of plug checks, I took it to a dyno mostly to check the A/F ratio, and was delighted to see that it was near stoichiometric across the range.
 
#16 ·
Thanks everyone. Very good repies for sure. I did the windshield mod and very happy. Im going to get the corbin seat redone over winter and soften it up. I like the klr the way it handles i just think with some engine mods which i can do myself over winter it would really perk up bike. Im 200lbs with gear and if you add hard bags i think the ol bike will be lagging a bit. There is some long pulls to yukon for sure. I fully intend on the 16 tooth also.
 
#17 ·
FWIW, I am in the process now to install a 719cc piston and liner upgrade. I’m going to have RaceTech rebuild my head with 1mm oversize valves, webcams 163 grind camshaft, webcams high performance valve springs with titanium retainers and keepers, 5 way valve seat bring, and full ported head.

I too want some additional power. Mostly so I can safely pass people in cars that cruise at 80 plus not crawl up hills fully loaded.

I want to do this on a dual sport - KLR650 and not an adventurer style motorcycle. Nor do I want a KTM DS as they are really dirt bikes with turn signals - IMO.

My Cogent shocks have already arrived. I’m sure they will improve the suspension, but still ... I want some engine improvements too. From what I’ve found in my research, the combination I’m proposing with some carburetor and exhaust/muffler changes should produce close to 60 hp at the rear wheel.

If I can find a dyno testing place close to the Coachella valley in CA I’ll try and get a before and after run to see what the combination really does. My tear down starts over Thanksgiving and hopefully completes by Christmas.


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#21 ·
So is that racetec out of oregon? 719 kit must be update over the 705. And yes if you can get 60 at wheel that would be impressive. I have to admit I've been snooping around the ktm shop. The 790 street version is 416 dry so it would be similar weight to klr.
 
#28 ·
handles great for being a porker. it tore up the dragon

I have no doubts. The ride with the 19” front on mine is awesome. I really like the way it handles.

First time I got on it though was a bit freaky. I was up so high compared to my other motorcycles. It felt too heavy too. Not as bad as my K1200LT that I used to own though.

After a couple of days though, even the inverse asphalt cloverleafs didn’t bother me. Plenty of stick to the tires even with a sharp lean angle. I wonder how far I can really go on this motorcycle. Somewhere along the way I’m going to have to try some twisties I’ve ridden with my F800ST and R1200RT and see how it compares. I’ve hit my pegs on both rides at speed - about 55 - on a tight right hand curve from a local mountain vista view.



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#31 ·
I am unsure if you realize the amount of extra parts & labor needed for the 705 kit verses the 685 & 692 kits, for so little extra performance gained?

Are you concerned about the price of high octane fuel or the availability of it?
 
#33 ·
Personally with my own money, I'm more of a 'if it ain't broke there is no need to fix it' kind of guy.

Back at 33,590 miles when I had the top end off because of dust ingestion thru an exhaust burnt hole in the bottom of the air box, I did a little bit more than just the oem piston & rings.
I cleaned up the ports and properly narrowed the seating surfaces (Which are way to wide from the factory. They only cut the 45 & 30 angles.) and installed new valves & seals.

I have only adjusted each valve one time each, one shim size only since then in over 50,000 additional miles, because they get a better seal on properly narrowed seats. It will pull an indicated 105 mph, most days, with stock gearing. (Saw 115 mph once, downhill with a tailwind.)
 
#36 ·
Yes i did read over klr chris’s tuning updates. It’s very interesting for sure. My theory is by a smaller lighter bike klr and mod to suit. If you go by Chris’s mods it makes 40.6 rear wheel hp. That’s nearly 50 engine hp. If you compare that to 60hp of the vstrom 650 and the extra weight the vstrom carrier’s u are almost comparable bikes now. If you go with say a 685 kit cams and porting which will require jetting also you are now likely mid 50 at wheel. Or 60 on engine with weight of bike you have a pretty quick ride. Of course you can always update to something bigger. But then its not a klr either.
 
#44 · (Edited)
I'd think the, "Small Port Cylinder Head" from KLRChris a MUST for ILove2's build!

I’ve spoken to him about it and it might happen. If we do it, the valves will use a quad port design that utilizes stock valves and oversize valves. The type of head porting will be up to him based on flow results.

I was all ready to start pulling the head a few minutes ago when I found out I don’t have the right socket. :( I’m going to have to find a deep thin wall 18mm socket. I think that’s the right size, but I actually came here to find out.

I forgot to mention, if I recall correctly, he stated the modified setup was 61 hp. I’m just not sure if that was rear wheel or engine hp.

I also found out I’m going to need to buy a 6 sided 30mm & 32mm socket and a couple of new nuts to put my clutch and gear assembly back together. The 12 sided socket left a few marks in the gear assembly nut so I’ll replace it. It was a PITA to get off.
 
#46 ·
Porting, properly executed, reduces fluid flow restriction, allowing additional fuel processing per unit time, thus increasing horsepower. (My own shade-tree artistry with a peanut grinder on a Super Hawk head did the engine no violence; doubtless a case of luck versus skill.)

In your head-porting, Steve.k, did you ever REDUCE the cross-section area of the ports (as in KLRChris's "small port" modification)? In general, porting's objective (seemed to me) reduces fluid flow restriction; I confess I don't understand the fluid flow physics involved in the, "small port" modification. The principles may be quite valid, applicable also to engines other than the KLR650's.
 
#43 · (Edited)
you are now likely mid 50 at wheel. Or 60 on engine
I say dream on. No chance in hell you are going to get 50 hp to the wheel..[/QUOTE]


klrchris is no ordinary back yard tuner. Rather a Lamborghini, Ferrari, Porche, Mazda tuner.
His included dyno charts are from a rear wheel dyno (Torque ATW).

Read a little deeper,
https://www.klrchris.com/60-hp-fuel-injected-klr-650/

And read the very bottom paragraph on that page!
 
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