My Ongoing Project - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

 8Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #11 of 61 Old 09-17-2019, 07:57 PM
OverDrive
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Lander, Wyoming
Posts: 5,541
DO Not Play with the Throttle! Yet.

The Starter Motor does the "turning over". The engine "FIRES" a couple of strokes, because of accumulated fuel fumes.

Your cold start problem could be because of snug valve tappet clearances. Suggested by 11,000 miles and unknown maintenance history.
And can be exacerbated by opening the throttle TOO Early. But could be solely because of Your Procedure.

Try full enrichener, ZERO throttle, crank the starter motor 5-6 continuous rotations, if no start, Let go of the starter button! Count to 10, slowly. This allows raw fuel to vaporize, priming the engine.
Re-engage the starter motor for 5-6 more rotations. Hopefully it "fires" and runs on full enrichener on the 2nd stroke. If not, let go of the button for another 10 count.

Ok, re-engage starter button & on the second rotation just 'twitch' the throttle slightly open! Hopefully it is now running still on full enrichener. Let it run full on for a minute or two.


If the engine can only be started by opening the throttle to Amplify the cold cranking compression, that is an indication of Low COLD CRANKING Compression.
Usually due to snug valve tappets, due to mileage, hopefully not due to dirt thru the air intake.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
pdwestman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 61 Old 09-18-2019, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Skook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Willamette Valley
Posts: 37
I just went through your starting procedure carefully.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post

Try full enrichener, ZERO throttle, crank the starter motor 5-6 continuous rotations, if no start, Let go of the starter button! Count to 10, slowly. This allows raw fuel to vaporize, priming the engine..
The engine fired and ran for maybe one second and then died.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Re-engage the starter motor for 5-6 more rotations. Hopefully it "fires" and runs on full enrichener on the 2nd stroke. If not, let go of the button for another 10 count.
The engine didn't fire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
Ok, re-engage starter button & on the second rotation just 'twitch' the throttle slightly open! Hopefully it is now running still on full enrichener. Let it run full on for a minute or two.
The engine didn't fire.

It seems the obvious next step is a compression check and valve check. I didn't know about the KACR. The specs in the Clymer manual must be for the KACR enabled. When I check the valves I will disable the KACR and check it again.

I tried to find the procedure for doing a compression check in the shop manual but couldn't find it. I would do a leak down test, but I have a compression gauge and I don't have a leak down tester.
Skook is offline  
post #13 of 61 Old 09-18-2019, 01:36 PM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,572
Garage

Tom [email protected]

“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
Tom Schmitz is offline  
 
post #14 of 61 Old 09-18-2019, 01:46 PM
5th Gear
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,332
Tom's compression check procedure should reveal any ring/valve (including valve adjustment) issues, or . . . a valve clearance check might be a good place to start.

I suspect carburetor problems, from the symptoms described.

Sometimes, starting fluid is your friend (always practice fire safety).

Starting fluid insures a combustible mixture; if the bike runs on starting fluid, but not its own gasoline . . . could be fuel/carb-related. Assume drained tank and carb float bowl, re-filled with fresh, "dry" gasoline.

“You better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, you’re gonna be dead.” "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
Damocles is online now  
post #15 of 61 Old 09-18-2019, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Skook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Willamette Valley
Posts: 37
Thanks Tom, the video was very informative. Unfortunately I'm roadblocked. The compression gauge that I have was one I used to use on my old Land Cruiser, but it doesn't fit into the spark plug hole of the KLR. I naively assumed all spark plug diameters are the same. Or maybe I hoped they were. It has one attachment which also does not fit. Maybe I had more attachments at one time, but I don't remember any.

I guess I need to buy a new compression tester with the appropriate attachment. Does anybody know what the designation of the thread size, diameter, whatever, that I am looking for?
Skook is offline  
post #16 of 61 Old 09-18-2019, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Skook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Willamette Valley
Posts: 37
Yeah, it's got fresh gas in the tank and the float bowl. I was thinking carb also, but I can't seem to figure it out that way.

The spark plug did seem a little loose so I retightened it and tried again. The same thing happened: It ran for a second and then nothing more after that. The spark plug looked normal and it was gapped correctly.

Did I mention I was no mechanic?
Skook is offline  
post #17 of 61 Old 09-18-2019, 02:27 PM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,572
Garage
I think I found an adapter or somesuch at Horrid Fright. Let me go look in the Shop of Horrors and figure out what I did.

Tom [email protected]

“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
Tom Schmitz is offline  
post #18 of 61 Old 09-18-2019, 02:41 PM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,572
Garage
You need to have an adapter that goes from 14mm down to 12mm. Here is one:



Horrid Fright doesn't seem to carry them and they don't seem to have the $10 compression test kits that had a full set of adapters in it anymore, either.

Might be you could get one at NAPA or AutoZone.

Tom [email protected]

“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
Tom Schmitz is offline  
post #19 of 61 Old 09-18-2019, 02:59 PM
Pretty in Pink, dunno why
 
Tom Schmitz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Redondo Beach
Posts: 7,572
Garage
I think that doing this compression test, though, ought to be your second priority. It is far more likely that the valves are too tight or the carburetor idle circuit is not clean than that there is a problem that the compression test will give insight to.

Was your idle jet this clean?

Tom [email protected]

“She went out slowly. The way she did it hadn’t been learned at business college.” -Philip Marlowe

“'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.” -Napoleon Bonaparte


Sting like a butterfly.
Tom Schmitz is offline  
post #20 of 61 Old 09-18-2019, 04:48 PM Thread Starter
1st Gear
 
Skook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Willamette Valley
Posts: 37
Tom, you are a scholar and a gentleman. I love this forum.

I don't know why I've gotten so hung up on the compression test. Still, I have to do one sooner or later. I went to the three auto parts stores in my smallish town and nobody could sell me an adapter. I guess I'll get that one you pointed to on Amazon.

Yes, I do think my idle jet was that clean, but...*sigh*...I will pull the carburetor off and check.

So, onto the valve clearance check. But that's for tomorrow. Thanks a lot guys for the all the help. I'd seriously be floundering around (more than I am) without you.
Skook is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome