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Mileage UNSAT & Related Question

3K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  NavyPiper 
#1 ·
Mornin’ Y’all, Doc here.
I have ‘09, bought it new with 3 miles on it. Now I’ve looked over previous posts on how many miles you can go before need in’ to get ‘go juice’. I’ve only gotten 26-32mpg before needing to fill up. Now hearing what y’all get get is UNSAT for me. I’ve removed the snorkel, tried different jetting-(thru the shop,FYI I’m a ‘Green Hospital Corpsman, not a mechanic’, and with prior injuries there’s not a lot I can do... I live in NV, at roughly 5,000 ft. Last set of jets were a stage 2 whatever that is, tech said at this altitude need to go back to stock, so we did. Runs worse than before! Mileage about the same. Tried 16 tooth sprocket but not much improvement. Oh, I have a FMF Power Core exhaust which didn’t do much other than the volume. Getting the stink eye from neighbors in the morning, and it’s harder to start in the AM! Takes forever and sometimes it starts so slow and loud that it sound like it’s gonna shoot the piston thru the case. After a few more tries it finally starts right and I’m good to go. Another related question, it’s done this with the exhaust, but on deceleration it pops super loud and non stop. Don’t know why but it’s consistent when riding and is driving me bat s... crazy! Also have a Uni air filter if that helps. Any ideas on these things? My fun meter is pegged out! Sorry for the novel, but wanted to provide all info. Y’all have a great day! Doc
 
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#2 ·
I'll first ask how many miles are currently on the meter?

Then I'll ask if your drive chain is or is not loose enough to lift the lower run Up to touch the rear tip of the rubber underslider?
If the chain can't touch it, when you set on it, it goes bow-string tight and robs HP.

Next what tires are you running & at what pressures? And how much do you weigh?
For reasonable fuel mileage I'll never recommend under 32 Front & 30 Rear regardless of brand & model of tire, but I might recommend More.

The 'choke' cable adjuster is under the fuel tank, dang them! The factory usually left them with too much slack.
Once the bike is running & warmed up, how far do you have to pull the enrichener lever before it affects the idle speed?

The cold start lever is NOT connected to a choke plate. It opens a separate fuel jet & air passage way.
If one opens the throttle plate even a smidgeon, it severely reduces the effectiveness of the cold start Enrichener Circuit!
Keep your hand OFF the RH grip and use your RH index finger on the starter button. And hold the button engaged for 5 full rotations of engine.
If it didn't start, let off the button & count to 10 to allow the raw fuel to vaporize, then engage the starter again.
The worst things we can do is 'play with the throttle' and 'tap,tap,tap' the starter button. IT will Not grind gears like a car starter.
You could even touch it at red-line! It would only 'spin-free'.

I live at 5000+ ft also. And I do know that a clean, stone stock KLR carb will work great from 5000 - 13,000 ft altitude.
And even quite well down to sea-level. They all came from the factory with the same set-up & can achieve 45-60 mpg if everything else is good.
But if it has been previously gunked up with old ethanol fuel, its needs a complete & proper cleaning.
Many people miss the 3 tiny low speed transition holes under the bottom lip of the throttle plate.
The Dyno-Jet brand jetting recommendations are TOO rich.

An un-oiled air filter can create an oil burner & cause low cold cranking compression, which can cause reluctant starting.
Tight valve tappet clearances, due to even normal wear can cause low CCC, which can cause reluctant starting.
The factory even got a few of the '08-'09 KACRs miss-timed, which can cause reluctant starting. (Which can be modified.)

Chances are high that your exhaust header to engine port Exhaust Gasket #11060-1108 needs to be replaced to reduce the 'after-fire' popping from the tail pipe.
Chances are high that no one ever re-torqued the header nuts by the 600 mile Break-in Maintenance & they may even be MIA.
But your FMF "silencer" will never muffle it as well as the stock muffler will.

There is a member on here by the handle of @Sarguy who lives in Reno I believe who must be a pretty good home mechanic. Click on his hi-lited name & send him a private message, I think he might like another riding partner.
 
#3 ·
PDwestman

"The cold start lever is NOT connected to a choke plate. It opens a separate fuel jet & air passage way.
If one opens the throttle plate even a smidgeon, it severely reduces the effectiveness of the cold start Enrichener Circuit!
Keep your hand OFF the RH grip and use your RH index finger on the starter button. And hold the button engaged for 5 full rotations of engine.
If it didn't start, let off the button & count to 10 to allow the raw fuel to vaporize, then engage the starter again.
The worst things we can do is 'play with the throttle' and 'tap,tap,tap' the starter button. IT will Not grind gears like a car starter.
You could even touch it at red-line! It would only 'spin-free'."


Now I know
As soon as I read, I went down to try. Total success. LOL

I had been doing it wrong.

Dicky
 
#5 ·
In the city at sea level and 80 F, it starts without the choke, but I have to keep a little accelerated until the temperature rises. When I use the choke I take that time to put on my helmet. In the mountains I must always use the choke, 2400 feet high above sea and 68F. I liked the fact of not touching the accelerator and keeping the 5 turns of the engine. That works even hot. I also gave the start button a very short touch and I think that also affected the engine start. Now I know.
 
#6 ·
Howdy PDWestman! I apologize for not responding sooner, but I’ve been a ‘Soup Sandwich since around 01NOV19 when I broke my Right Hand... and also developed tendinitis & Golferitis, which really . sucks! And right after I got the cast off I somehow, don’t know how I dropped the bike at about Grandma speed. Had to have my bride help gettin’ it on her wheels and back under the carport. If any of y’all read this and it’s on your bucket list, take dropping a 30lb onto your left foot, remove it ASAP! Crushed 2 toes and put a nice fracture across all metatarsals. So I’m in a boot til Valentine’s Day...

Thank y’all for the responses! I’ll respond to PDWestman as he really had a buttload of questions.

I'll first ask how many miles are currently on the meter?
A: 25448.5

Then I'll ask if your drive chain is or is not loose enough to lift the lower run Up to touch the rear tip of the rubber underslider?
If the chain can't touch it, when you set on it, it goes bow-string tight and robs HP.
A: Yep, it’s spot on.

Next what tires are you running & at what pressures? And how much do you weigh?
A. Kenda 270s.
B. 185-195lbs.
C. I currently have aluminum panniers.


For reasonable fuel mileage I'll never recommend under 32 Front & 30 Rear regardless of brand & model of tire, but I might recommend More.
A. I was told to run 32-34psi forward, and 32 aft, so that’s what I’ve been using.

Q1. The 'choke' cable adjuster is under the fuel tank, dang them! The factory usually left them with too much slack.
A: seems fine to me, no slack in it.

Q2. Once the bike is running & warmed up, how far do you have to pull the enrichener lever before it affects the idle speed?
A1: I had no idea what you were talking about until I asked someone about it and weren’t sure but gave the best answer he had... Remember combat Hospital Corpsman here not a mechanic, LOL! You mean the choke lever right? Never tried it.... but I’ll try and fire it up in the carport. Just about ran her dry so gotta get a gas can and give her some her some go juice.
A.2: Ain’t never did that, didn’t know you could.....

The cold start lever is NOT connected to a choke plate. It opens a separate fuel jet & air passage way.
If one opens the throttle plate even a smidgeon, it severely reduces the effectiveness of the cold start Enrichener Circuit!
Keep your hand OFF the RH grip and use your RH index finger on the starter button. And hold the button engaged for 5 full rotations of engine.
If it didn't start, let off the button & count to 10 to allow the raw fuel to vaporize, then engage the starter again.
The worst things we can do is 'play with the throttle' and 'tap,tap,tap' the starter button. IT will Not grind gears like a car starter.
You could even touch it at red-line! It would only 'spin-free'.
A. I use my thumb is that ok? LOL!

I live at 5000+ ft also. And I do know that a clean, stone stock KLR carb will work great from 5000 - 13,000 ft altitude.
And even quite well down to sea-level. They all came from the factory with the same set-up & can achieve 45-60 mpg if everything else is good.
But if it has been previously gunked up with old ethanol fuel, its needs a complete & proper cleaning.
Many people miss the 3 tiny low speed transition holes under the bottom lip of the throttle plate.
The Dyno-Jet brand jetting recommendations are TOO rich.

An un-oiled air filter can create an oil burner & cause low cold cranking compression, which can cause reluctant starting.
Tight valve tappet clearances, due to even normal wear can cause low CCC, which can cause reluctant starting.
The factory even got a few of the '08-'09 KACRs miss-timed, which can cause reluctant starting. (Which can be modified.)
A. I put a Uni filter on a few months ago, and he said it really good.

Chances are high that your exhaust header to engine port Exhaust Gasket #11060-1108 needs to be replaced to reduce the 'after-fire' popping from the tail pipe.
Chances are high that no one ever re-torqued the header nuts by the 600 mile Break-in Maintenance & they may even be MIA.
But your FMF "silencer" will never muffle it as well as the stock muffler will.
A. Boy did I learn that one! Any recommendations on a slip on that’s a lot quieter? I’ll have to save up for it. I’ll also check the exhaust nuts that hold the exhaust pipe and tighten if needed. Is that what you’re referring to?

Sitrep since original post:

My fun meter was finally pegged out, and took her a shop in town. Head tech has a gen 1. He said carb was over specs for rebuilding so I went with it. That’s when he redid the jettin. When I got home, I smelled gas. Went to exhaust because I usually smelled the gas from the but no odor... I noticed a few days later that the carb where the bottom bolts to the top that it was getting that color when leakin gas and when I left shop she was perfect color wise as the carb. Started her up but couldn’t see anything leaking at that spot but found she was dripping from somewhere right on the center of my starter! So I caught a ride to the shop- no license due comin down with brain damage from I guess too many TBIs from back in 80’s... but told the counter guy what was goin on and the repair ticket entered so when I’m able to drive again I can take her back and get her fixed.

Sorry about the novel but I hope it answers your questions and can provide some advise. I’ll try and contact Sarguy.

Thx, Doc
 
#7 ·
Sorry to read about your mis-fortunes & injuries.

When you put your hand on the throttle grip to attempt to make a cold start with the enrichener (choke) pulled on, make a conscious effort to roll the throttle Forward against its stop. I lock my thumb over the cable housing to ensure that the throttle grip stays at idle position when kick-starting dirt bikes. Any throttle opening is a no-no.

I recon that the float bowl o-ring will need to be replaced to stop the fuel dripping. This is another good example of why it is a good thing to have a automatic shut-off fuel tap, engine off-gas is off. It can only drip a little bit.
 
#8 ·
I helped a friend out this last summer, with "de-restricting" his Gen 2. After pulling the snorkel, installing a K & N air filter, installing a modded exhaust (the tweety silencer core removal mod), and richening it up by going to the thinner KLX needle, he noticed quite the performance gain, and improved rideability... but he got popping on decel, and the occasional wicked loud backfire! I found a post on .net discussing same problem, recommending the AIS delete mod, so we did that - problem gone.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Hi PDWesterman & everyone everyone else!

In regards to the ‘warm up’ that sucks big time. After warming up for 5-10mins, the temp needle only goes up approximately 1/8th. I found the only way I can get it to middle of the gauge is to let it idle is to let it sit for about 45-60mins. Then when I head to work about 5 miles to work within 1 to 2 mins it drops back down to where it was. Oh, if I’m in heavy stop & go red lights sitting it’ll go up half way up but soon as traffic is smoother and riding, it drops back down to where it was...

I tried the choke/ enricher, it just dies...

That’s my story & I'm stickin to It.
Respectfully,
Doc
 
#11 ·
DO Not let your bike sit & idle that long. I'll be replacing the entire Plastic air filter box on a guys recent acquisition who was hoping it would recharge the battery,

The entire bottom of the plastic air box is melted thru (clean side & dirty side) & the rear inner fender has drippy stringers hanging above the forward half of the muffler.
Maybe you better check yours with a flash light, behind the rear brake reservoir?

And view this, https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/melted-reservoir-dog-airbox-too
 
#12 · (Edited)
Well that put the ‘ug’ in ugly! You’ve killed emotions and now I need the key to the weep locker...

Ok, time to get serious at least as much as I can...
I had NO idea it could / would melt. I’ll check tomorrow with a mirror. I just did it once just to see how long it took to get warm where it oughta be. There’s 4 things I wanna do before before I take dirt nap: 1. The doohickey. 2. Thermobob. 3. Get my USN blue soft bags reinforced with clipboards- no joke it works, and designed bust into little pieces rather than break my leg. Came close to that more than once with my aluminum ones... 4. Leo Vance muffler since the consensus says that’ll do the trick. I’ve all the others on and done- windshield riser n dash, heated seat- hey it occasionally gets to a few degrees and since I pretty much ride all year, it gets a mighty cold if ya know what I mean. Got new controller for heated suit pants, socks, gloves n jacket. My brain bucket expired per mfg, so got a deal on one and it’s got a heated visor to hopefully keep from frosting up. Bark busters for the hands, new foot pegs, n new windscreen. Did I mention I don’t do cold? I like it hot n muggy when I was growin up in TX, but I swear if I get dropped in a jungle there better not be any snakes! Gunny tol me that the are 100 kinds of snakes there. 99 are poisonous and the last one will eat me whole!

Ok sorry I just can’t being humorous at times. But I’m thinking maybe the Therobob should be #1. Opinions?

Til later, Doc
 
#14 ·
Sorry for the late reply

Yes, I still live in Reno.

Yes, I would enjoy a new riding partner as most of mine have moved away.

Yes, I'm getting pretty darn good at working on KLRs and I have many of the special tools as well as made some of my own. For instance, how many of you have had to change out the Balancer Shaft because the thread for attaching the water pump impeller broke? (I have because I broke it, oops). I've also done EM's 685 kit and a whole ton of other upgrades, like installing a kickstarter on a 2005.

So, let me know....

John
 
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