Some major upgrade advice - Page 16 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #151 of 166 Old 11-17-2019, 04:12 AM Thread Starter
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I thought the Gen2 already had a higher output stator. I havenít seen any reference to one with a greater output. If you know of one, post a link. I could probably use one if I add heated grips.

As for the battery, well Iíd be lying if I said I hadnít thought about it. Easy way to shed a few pounds, but itís not an immediate necessity.

As for a dyno run, still working on that. Only place so far prefers to only work on Harleys. I am working on it though as Iíd really like to know what the before and after results actually are.


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post #152 of 166 Old 11-17-2019, 05:18 AM
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I have a RaceTech Electric high-output stator on my Generation 1; this how-to video might be useful to you should you install a similar product on your Generation 2:


And, here's another Generation 1 treatment:


Here's the last known RaceTech Electric link (truth be told; don't know if they're currently in business or not, where (if anywhere) their business might be located):

RaceTechElectric | eBay Stores

(I don't get the "ebay stores" connection; your best bet would be contacting RaceTech Electric directly, I think; found this telephone number on the Internet, can't vouch for its validity: (619) 928-9015.)

Insufficiently confused yet? Here's an Amazon link:



Don't know whether a Generation 2 stator is in their inventory; had the impression they would do custom windings for customers.

You probably want a MOS/FET regulator; these have been adapted for Generation 2s; my riding partner has one on his 2008; puts out 14 volts at idle, IIRC.

All this said, if you're converting to LED headlight and running lights, you probably don't even need a high-output stator on your Generation 2.

Any interest in the kick-starter mod for your bike?

----------------------------------

Just thought; Allen-head (hex socket) machine screws for your Keihin carburetor are a good idea; if you don't have 'em yet, Eagle Mike has a kit. And, I think pdwestman has mentioned the T-handled Kouba idle mixture screw . . .

ďYou better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, youíre gonna be dead.Ē "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre

Last edited by Damocles; 11-17-2019 at 05:35 AM.
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post #153 of 166 Old 11-17-2019, 08:49 AM
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While you are awaiting the new adjustable cam sprockets, make a tool like this for torquing:

Damocles likes this.

Tom [email protected]

ďSome days I feel like playing it smooth. Some days I feel like playing it like a waffle iron.Ē -Philip Marlowe

ď'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used.Ē -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
Noli Timere Messorem
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post #154 of 166 Old 11-17-2019, 09:59 AM
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Since you're planning off-roading, ILove2, I ASSUME you have a proper skid plate. What about engine/radiator guard? And, crash ("nerf") bars (maybe, with street pegs)? An IMS plastic tank will fulfill some of these functional capabilities, and . . . you can get 'em, up to 10-gallon capacity. What about handguards? (I think these accessories are valuable as, "control-lever guards"). And . . . do you have a choke lever/mirror relocation bracket (protects left-handlebar switchgear and choke lever pivot from mirror-stem carnage in the event of a fall). Stone guard for headlight?

Ain't there a rear brake rotor guard? Maybe a rear brake master cylinder guard?

And . . . I'd think an Allen-keyed oil fill cap essential for an engine of the elegance of yours.

I'm reminded of Oliver Wendell Holmes' account of,

"The Deacon’s Masterpiece, or, the Wonderful 'One-hoss Shay': A Logical Story."

Before motorcycles existed, but, some motivations and behavior mentioned prevail still . . . I'll quote a couple of stanzas:

------------------------------------

Now in building of chaises, I tell you what,
There is always somewhere a weakest spot, —
In hub, tire, felloe, in spring or thill,
In panel, or crossbar, or floor, or sill,
In screw, bolt, thoroughbrace, — lurking still,
Find it somewhere you must and will, —
Above or below, or within or without, —
And that’s the reason, beyond a doubt,
A chaise breaks down, but doesn’t wear out.

But the Deacon swore (as Deacons do,
With an “I dew vum,” or an “I tell yeou”)
He would build one shay to beat the taown
’N’ the keounty ’n’ all the kentry raoun’;
It should be so built that it couldn’ break daown:
“Fur,” said the Deacon, “’tis mighty plain
Thut the weakes’ place mus’ stan’ the strain;
’N’ the way t’ fix it, uz I maintain,
Is only jest
T’ make that place uz strong uz the rest.”

-------------------------------------

For more, q.v., Poem: The Deacon's Masterpiece, or, the Wonderful One-hoss Shay: A Logical Story
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ďYou better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, youíre gonna be dead.Ē "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #155 of 166 Old 11-17-2019, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Some major upgrade advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
You probably want a MOS/FET regulator; these have been adapted for Generation 2s; my riding partner has one on his 2008; puts out 14 volts at idle, IIRC.

All this said, if you're converting to LED headlight and running lights, you probably don't even need a high-output stator on your Generation 2.

Any interest in the kick-starter mod for your bike?
They are in business and the eBay linked worked. Iím checking to see if their stator supplies a higher wattage than stock. The Gen2,was upgraded to provide more wattage than the Gen1.

[Edit] I checked. The model supplied is the same wattage as a stock Gen2. As I have a Gen2, thereís no reason to upgrade the stator.

A MOS/FET regulator might be of interest too. Iíll check into it.

No kick start for me. I read what it took to install and ... nope ... Iím happy with electric or push start if needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Just thought; Allen-head (hex socket) machine screws for your Keihin carburetor are a good idea; if you don't have 'em yet, Eagle Mike has a kit. And, I think pdwestman has mentioned the T-handled Kouba idle mixture screw . . .

Got them already. Plus new cam cover bolts from EM already. The rest of the carburetor items were already installed by the PO.

FWIW, I also bought a complete set of SS Allen head bolts to replace all exterior bolts on the engine. New SS fairing bolts too. And I have a couple of bags of 5 & 6 mm torx bolts for fairings and frame from my BMW days. So, Iím good on bolt replacements. Well aside from some for the triple clamps if needed. The PO had a tendency to over torque any bolt he touched. So if I need them Iíll be buying them too.


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Last edited by ILove2Ride2Wheels; 11-17-2019 at 07:17 PM.
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post #156 of 166 Old 11-17-2019, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
While you are awaiting the new adjustable cam sprockets, make a tool like this for torquing:

I saw this previously, but have no welding tools. And Iím not quite sure if Iím ready to start welding yet. I am buying a new cam chain, so at least that part will be available to build the jig if needed. I have a local machine shop that could help me build it if needed.

Iíll be looking at my manuals today to see what other methods they use, but am wondering if there is any other way to install the cam bolts without a jig like this.


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post #157 of 166 Old 11-17-2019, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Some major upgrade advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
Since you're planning off-roading, ILove2, I ASSUME you have a proper skid plate. What about engine/radiator guard? And, crash ("nerf") bars (maybe, with street pegs)? An IMS plastic tank will fulfill some of these functional capabilities, and . . . you can get 'em, up to 10-gallon capacity. What about handguards? (I think these accessories are valuable as, "control-lever guards"). And . . . do you have a choke lever/mirror relocation bracket (protects left-handlebar switchgear and choke lever pivot from mirror-stem carnage in the event of a fall). Stone guard for headlight?

Ain't there a rear brake rotor guard? Maybe a rear brake master cylinder guard?
Got a skid plate, nerf bars, highway pegs, radiator guard, brake guard, choke eliminator kit & idle mixture screw, curtsey of the PO. Iím buying Barkbuster hand guards and a stone guard for the front headlight. Iíve had my headlight beaten up before by road debris so always put one on after that. BMW replacements are more expensive than KLR parts, but still the cost of a stone guard will mostly eliminate potential problems and is worth it to me.

No need for an IMS tank though. Iíll be buying an external set of cans to carry in my luggage when I decide on my choice of luggage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
And . . . I'd think an Allen-keyed oil fill cap essential for an engine of the elegance of yours.
No. I donít like the idea of an Allen wrench being required to put oil in the engine. If I do decide to buy a replacement, and I might as my current plugís top is a bit too flexible from the PO using something to torque it on/off more than figure tight, Iíll just get a billet version. Still less expensive than an OEM replacement.

But I might not even need that as Iím looking at an entire clutch cover replacement that includes the plug, the oil cover, and the clutch pivot linkage. I want to get a longer clutch pivot linkage made and the other parts can be used in case I screw up the PDWestern oil mods. At the least I want the zero oil filtration mod and if I screw up my cover Iíll have spare parts.

Nice quotes too.






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post #158 of 166 Old 11-17-2019, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILove2Ride2Wheels View Post
I saw this previously, but have no welding tools. And Iím not quite sure if Iím ready to start welding yet. I am buying a new cam chain, so at least that part will be available to build the jig if needed. I have a local machine shop that could help me build it if needed.

Iíll be looking at my manuals today to see what other methods they use, but am wondering if there is any other way to install the cam bolts without a jig like this.


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If you have a rigidly mounted bench vise, you only need to pad the vise jaws with 'soft-jaws' or 2 blocks of hardwood on a cam lobe, to either remove or re-install the sprocket bolts. Camshaft should be vertical in vise & sprocket horizontal.

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #159 of 166 Old 11-17-2019, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
If you have a rigidly mounted bench vise, you only need to pad the vise jaws with 'soft-jaws' or 2 blocks of hardwood on a cam lobe, to either remove or re-install the sprocket bolts. Camshaft should be vertical in vise & sprocket horizontal.

Cool. I already bought the aluminum 90 degree flat and angle brackets for a vice. Iíll pick up a few pieces of wood too. Waiting on my mobile workbench. Just havenít decided how big a vice I should get. Iím thinking a minimum of 6Ē, but maybe bigger as I also want to be able to use it to install bearings in my swingarm. Any idea how wide of one is need to service a swingarm using sockets as a driver and receptacle for that?


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post #160 of 166 Old 11-22-2019, 08:30 PM Thread Starter
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Well no chance for a pre-build dyno run. Only shop I could find on such short notice is booked up for a couple of more weeks.

Iíll be able to get an after run with them though when Iím fine. Should be good enough as everyone knows what a stock KLR makes anyway.

On the good news side of things, my garage is ready. Got storage and a work table. Well cart. Still need to make the top for it.

So, dropping the wife off for a trip back East tomorrow and Sunday is prep day. Got to unpack the tools and put them away. Need to organize the replacement parts so I know where each one is located and that I didnít skip any.

On Wednesday the breakdown begins! Think I might start a new thread for that and another for the build. Just to stay organized.
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