Some major upgrade advice - Page 3 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #21 of 159 Old 10-24-2019, 05:57 PM
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The KLR vibrates at a lower frequency than twins or fours even BMW twins. I have found in many decades of riding this big thumper is less bothersome than any of the twins or fours i have owned in the past, that is why i mentioned ride it for a few miles before major mods! From what everyone who has done the 685-719 piston change has said the felt vibration is less. A proper dohickey will cure a lot of vibration problems as well. Different bars and/or different bar end weights can change the frequency or RPM range of felt vibration also.

Seat concepts or others will cure the monkey butt seat problems!

Read the Cam Advance MC Mod thread its free and easy torque.

Just being in the wind cures many perceived faults or they seem less important, for old guys time is short enjoy as much wind time as you can!
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post #22 of 159 Old 10-28-2019, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. Iíve read the thread on the MC mod already. It was an interesting read.

Iím still researching away, but found some interesting threads on the setup I am looking at doing, but didnít find the results yet. So still searching for more information.

One thing I did find is a 705cc kit with the web cams 163 grind and oversize valves can push the engine to close to 60hp. But the pics for the torque curve expired so could see where the powerband was. One basic concept was hp was increased along the entire powerband when compared to stock. So I might get what I want out of the upgrade.


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post #23 of 159 Old 10-29-2019, 05:21 AM
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go wild and pull the airbox and put a lectron carb on it. throttle response is quite crisp. i also dumped fatass lead acid battery and put a 3 lb lithium ion battery. go all out if ya have the cash
cannot even see the battery and look at all the air. now ya see see that cogent shock too!




used a roof of a plastic battery box as a tray. used a piece of thin flat stock as a platform



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post #24 of 159 Old 10-29-2019, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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The Lectron carb is on my short list. Iíll be considering it, a pumper carb, and a FI carb. Not sure which way Iím going to go. A lot depends on what I can find and what mods are required to make it fully functional.

I like the idea of a LiFe battery, but could never do what you did. Iíd be afraid the first big bump would pop the cable ties and dump the battery.

Iím also not sure about getting rid of the air box. Sounds great for the street but not sure about using it in the dirt. Granted, I wonít be spending much time there but do want have the option.

And FWIW, you have a really nice looking ride. For a street bike itís very aggressive, but Iím afraid mine is going the route of a pack horse. I want to use it for camping/fishing trips so itís going to be burdened with side cases. I already have a top case on it.


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post #25 of 159 Old 10-29-2019, 10:09 AM
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i have a piece of flat stock supporting the tray. bolts one end to rear fender. other to bracket holding starter solenoid. its rock solid and won't move.
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post #26 of 159 Old 10-29-2019, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILove2Ride2Wheels View Post
The Lectron carb is on my short list. Iíll be considering it, a pumper carb, and a FI carb. Not sure which way Iím going to go. A lot depends on what I can find and what mods are required to make it fully functional.
Your bike, IL2, but . . . none of these mods contributes significantly to your stated objectives, increased power and reduced vibration, IMHO. Seems to me, an optimum air/fuel ratio, whether from a CVK40, Lectron, pumper, or even fuel injection increases power. If I'm in error, I'd like to know the mechanism producing additional power from the same combustible mixture.

Nevertheless, your planned project appears most interesting; looking forward to images documenting your progress, particularly of the stroked crankshaft and shortened connecting rod.

ďYou better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, youíre gonna be dead.Ē "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #27 of 159 Old 10-29-2019, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Well the stroked crankshaft is now history after another chat with Mike. Unless I can find a builder to help me figure out the piston issue.

While talking with Mike he mentioned Crank Works Inc. did the original modifications for his kit. So I talked to him and asked a bit more about the process. CWI will build be a longer rod. They will relocate the crankshaft pin. But ... they didnít provide any info on the piston and my research - talk with Mike confirmed it - that to build a stroker requires a piston with the wrist pin located more toward the piston face. I donít have one. Mike has a couple of beta pistons but those are for his future projects and I couldnít buy one. So I need a builder that can help me with that part or just pass on it.

With my current time line - start disassembly ASAP or at a minimum by Thanksgiving and ship out the parts for the machine work and pray I get it all back for a Christmas reassembly - thatís a problem. Itís $425 just to true & balance the crankshaft. Plus another two to three hundred in tools for the job. And I forgot new seals. Not sure how much it would cost for all of them, but figure another one to two hundred. So unless I can get some quick results Iíll save the $700-$900 and see how much less the vibration is with just the 719cc BBK.

Iím still going with the fully ported head by RaceTech. With 1mm oversize Schnitz Racing SS valves, new valve guides, WebCams 163 grind cams and high performance valve springs, the total is somewhere close to $1500. The head should flow much better than stock. RaceTech will provide flow bench results of the before and after results and Iíll post those when I get them.

In any case, more flow equals more power along the entire powerband. Iíll need a way to provide more fuel/air at the right ratio to realize that power. Flow in also requires flow our. So Iíll need improved header & muffler too. If I can get it all right, then the engine should be pushing close to 60 hp. Iím not the first to do this, so know it can be done. Iím just trying to do it with more off the shelf parts.

FWIW, if after I get this all together and still need to lower the vibrations more, Iíll still pull the bottom end and send it out for balancing with the 718cc piston. I know itíll never be vibration free. Thatís impossible with a single cylinder engine, but balancing the assembly can minimize the vibrations.


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post #28 of 159 Old 10-30-2019, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILove2Ride2Wheels View Post
CWI will build be a longer rod.
Since the crankshaft stroke is longer (greater) with a "stroker" modification, I thought the complementing rod would be shorter, not longer. My mistake!



-------------------------------

Just a thought; as to reducing engine vibration, have you considered fabricating and installing a heavier flywheel/rotor? The increased mass, and possibly, consequent shifted center/moment of inertia, of such a replacement flywheel should definitely reduce engine vibration. Such a mod would also enhance continuity of power/torque delivery at low rpm, as when you ride your KLR off-road (less tendency to stall).

ďYou better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, youíre gonna be dead.Ē "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre

Last edited by Damocles; 10-30-2019 at 08:19 AM.
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post #29 of 159 Old 10-30-2019, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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I had not considered adding mass as primarily means to lower vibration unless needed to balance out the reciprocating mass (piston & rod assembly). Otherwise, Iíd just be creating more vibration rather than less - most likely.

Itís difficult to tell as they donít balance out counter balancers in general although they do for a Honda 250. Truthfully, Iíd spend the money to balance out every reciprocating hunk if metal in the engine if I could. Sure, it costs money, but my donated kidney means a lot mitre to me then the small amounts Iím putting into the engine. Iím not going to give up motorcycles though. Not until Iím physically incapable of riding.


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post #30 of 159 Old 10-30-2019, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by ILove2Ride2Wheels View Post
Iím also not sure about getting rid of the air box. Sounds great for the street but not sure about using it in the dirt. Granted, I wonít be spending much time there but do want have the option.
You are correct; removing the airbox is a bad idea unless it's for street only. pull the snorkle and do the L-mod, install a Uni filter and you'll have the flow you need.

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