So, the build begins with the tear down ... - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 44 Old 11-27-2019, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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So, the build begins with the tear down ...

This week was my scheduled week to start tearing down my KLR so I could mail out pieces to various vendors for upgrades and machine work, but as life will, stuff happened and I only have 3-4 days to get as much as I can done. Today was the first day I had to work on it. It stated like this ...



And ended here ...



All the removed parts are in the cabinet. All the bolts are in baggies labeled with their location.

Only other thing I plan to do today is drain the coolant. Oil is already drained and awaiting recycling.

Tomorrowís plan is to remove the rest of the Happy Trails skid plate, front skid plant with highway pegs, and the final pieces of the nerf bars. Looks like that final piece runs through the front engine mount too.

After that, I think Iíll remove the top engine mount and carburetor. Not sure if that as I need to look more at the engine mounts and make sure I donít remove too many to still work on the engine in the frame.

If my friend comes over I might just pull the entire engine out and work on it on my bench where itíll be easier to get to all the hidden bolts. So weíll see how it goes.
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post #2 of 44 Old 11-28-2019, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Well, after removing a lot of parts I found a crack in the lower engine mount. Iím going to have to get it fixed when I send out the lower crankcase to be vapor blasted.

Is this something that happens often on the KLR?



Too bad I donít know how to weld on my own. Although Iíve been thinking about learning, but just have enough reasons to learn and buy the equipment.
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post #3 of 44 Old 11-28-2019, 04:56 PM
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The swingarm pivot, lower rocker pivot & bottom rear engine should be the last 3 loosened / removed.

You Will Want that engine Rigidly anchored to loosen and remove the clutch, crank gear & Especially the Flywheel which was supposed to be torqued to 144 ft lbs.

I've dealt with a few flywheels that nearly 'jumped off' the crank once the bolt was removed and a couple that the mounting flange had to be quickly heated with an oxy/acetylene torch to keep from stripping the few threads in the flange with the puller.

EM does make a "Super Puller" if the threads do get stripped by careless mechanics!

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #4 of 44 Old 11-28-2019, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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This one is the only only one removed actually. I temporarily removed the top mount just to pull the carb, but put it back. After pulling off the sprocket cover, chain, then sprocket I saw the crack and pulled the bolt.

Glad you mentioned the flywheel though. Iíve got the EM tools and a few others, so hopefully Iíll get them out without issue. I was debating something though ...

Start from the top down removing components or start from the sides and remove flywheels, stator, clutch, etc. before the top end.

Is there a best way - namely easier to ensure success?
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post #5 of 44 Old 11-28-2019, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILove2Ride2Wheels View Post
Well, after removing a lot of parts I found a crack in the lower engine mount. Iím going to have to get it fixed when I send out the lower crankcase to be vapor blasted.

Is this something that happens often on the KLR?

.
No; that sucks.....
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post #6 of 44 Old 11-28-2019, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DPelletier View Post
No; that sucks.....


Oh bummer! Well on the good news side I can buy replacement cases on eBay for a bit over $100. And the good news is ... the side that cracked does not have the motor serial number on it. So I can replace the left side without any DMV issues.

Now I just have to decide on a top down or side first tear down. Currently, Iím thinking of taking it apart from the top down.
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post #7 of 44 Old 11-28-2019, 07:33 PM
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DMV doesnít give two shits about the engine serial number. They only care about the VIN on the head tube.

The cases are matched sets. You really shouldnít replace just one side. You stand a good chance of canting the components and introducing binding into the bearings. For a shade tree fix on a Ďride it around the orchardí bike, yeah, but on a real build, no.

You canít get the head off without getting the cam chain out of the way and simply dropping the cam chain down the tunnel is rather poor technique. Removing the rotor and right side stuff will cause the crank to rotate some. If the top end is off then the piston will flop around a bit, which is rather poor technique.

Strip the right and left sides as much as possible, then remove the top end. Of course, as part of stripping the left side, the cams will be one of the first things removed... ;^)
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post #8 of 44 Old 11-28-2019, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I can say in CA they do - at times - care about the engine serial number. When I brought my BMW from Tx into CA they inspected all the numbers and initially refused to sign off on it until I showed them where the numbers were along with the all 50 states smog certification. But Iíll admit it all depends on who you get at DMV and what their mood is at that moment.

Thanks for letting me know about the matching cases. I wasnít aware they were a matched set. Itís good you let me know as I found a matched set and thought I might not need both. Bought it for $180 delivered.

And thanks for the advice on the tear down too. Iíll see how much I can get done between now and Monday. Iíd really like to start boxing up and shipping pieces out by Monday, but it all depends on how easy it comes apart. Hopefully, I wonít find any more damaged parts.
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post #9 of 44 Old 11-28-2019, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ILove2Ride2Wheels View Post
Well, after removing a lot of parts I found a crack in the lower engine mount. I’m going to have to get it fixed when I send out the lower crankcase to be vapor blasted.

Is this something that happens often on the KLR?



Too bad I don’t know how to weld on my own. Although I’ve been thinking about learning, but just have enough reasons to learn and buy the equipment.

Just on a whim.................

Have you ever dropped your KLR on those Happy Trail crash bars?
Friend had a set and dropped it a couple of times. Then found that the front engine mount/attaching point for the bars was bent to one side causing the engine to sit off-line. His case cracked in the same place at that rear mount.
So check that front mount to be sure it's straight.

Good Luck!

Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation."

Jeff in Napa California
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post #10 of 44 Old 11-28-2019, 07:49 PM Thread Starter
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Just on a whim.................
Have you ever dropped your KLR on those Happy Trail crash bars?


As a matter of fact I have. On the opposite side though. And I did notice that when I pulled the bolts for the bars all of them were out of alignment.
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