IMS ADV 2 Footpegs - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 12 Old 12-01-2019, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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IMS ADV 2 Footpegs

I installed the ADV 2 foot pegs with the stock risers. Absolutely love them. Was able to get hundreds of relatively hard off road miles until the furthest to the rear bolt stripped out. Most likely due to the weak nut insert and the added stress of a much larger peg and ability to position feet further from the frame increasing the leverage on the entire assembly. Also worth noting is that I also have the center stand that compounds the leverage.

My permanent fix was drilling through the fame and going with a longer grade 8 bolt and nut. Then applying a couple stitch welds on the center stand and peg mounts on 2 on the center stand and peg assy. to the frame that were placed easily to grind off in case of removal. Just thought Id throw this out there for anyone considering going with these pegs.
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post #2 of 12 Old 12-02-2019, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Turboholic View Post
I installed the ADV 2 foot pegs with the stock risers...........................
Also worth noting is that I also have the center stand that compounds the leverage.

My permanent fix was drilling through the fame and going with a longer grade 8 bolt and nut. Then applying a couple stitch welds on the center stand and peg mounts on 2 on the center stand and peg assy. to the frame that were placed easily to grind off in case of removal. Just thought Id throw this out there for anyone considering going with these pegs.

I suspect that you do not realize just how much that weakens the frame & causes a stress point by drill thru the back wall of that frame tube. Without a sleeve welded into that hollow frame pipe one can't really tighten the bolt & nut, as it will just crush the frame pipe.

Best to keep a close eye on it for evidence of cracking.

pdwestman
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post #3 of 12 Old 12-04-2019, 06:35 PM
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I own the IMS ADV II pegs, as well. I absolutely loved them until I had some bolt issues...like you did.

I pulled the stock bolts, upgraded to better ones...but moved to a smaller footpeg, anyhow. Those huge IMS pegs constantly acted as levers, IMHO. The smaller pegs have been fine.

Fast forward a couple of years and I got another Gen 1. My friend fancies himself as a welding wiz, so I added some cool JNS Engineering Footpeg mounts...and he welded them on. The way they sit, they dont block anything if you need to yank the motor apart.

So now Im thinking about re-installing the cool ADV pegs.
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post #4 of 12 Old 12-05-2019, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan Diego View Post
I own the IMS ADV II pegs, as well. I absolutely loved them until I had some bolt issues...like you did.

I pulled the stock bolts, upgraded to better ones...but moved to a smaller footpeg, anyhow. Those huge IMS pegs constantly acted as levers, IMHO. The smaller pegs have been fine.

Fast forward a couple of years and I got another Gen 1. My friend fancies himself as a welding wiz, so I added some cool JNS Engineering Footpeg mounts...and he welded them on. The way they sit, they dont block anything if you need to yank the motor apart.

So now Im thinking about re-installing the cool ADV pegs.
I hope that you removed & lubed the lower suspension rocker link bearings, sleeves, seals and pivot Bolt before welding on the JNS re-locator brackets. Also best to plug those 2 Stoopid holes on the rear of the lower frame cross pipe to keep the water out.
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pdwestman
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-05-2019, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I hope that you removed & lubed the lower suspension rocker link bearings, sleeves, seals and pivot Bolt before welding on the JNS re-locator brackets. Also best to plug those 2 Stoopid holes on the rear of the lower frame cross pipe to keep the water out.
I did. Was just gonna replace the swingarm frame pivot bearings and pivot bearing seals, but theyd been done recently and looked good.

Now those holes...

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post #6 of 12 Old 12-05-2019, 01:13 PM
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Here's whatcha do with them holes, Dan. Getcha a new tube of grease, the really big full-size one with the red stuff in it. Put that nozzle thing on your grease gun and start pumpin' away and keep pumpin' until grease comes out the frame about halfway up, right 'bout the level of the rear brake switch. Make sure it be comin' out t'other side, too.

All y'all won't never have no more trouble with that bolt gettin' stuck in there no how.

Of course, your frame will weep red grease all over hell and tarnation whenever the weather gets hot and it's worse, much worse, with a black frame.

No, I would appreciate it if you would not ask me how I know this...

We did a much better job on @samuel's bike.

@dan diego
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 12-05-2019 at 01:15 PM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 12-05-2019, 01:32 PM
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So Tom, how do you know?




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post #8 of 12 Old 12-05-2019, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Schmitz View Post
...keep pumpin' until grease comes out the frame about halfway up, right 'bout the level of the rear brake switch. Make sure it be comin' out t'other side, too. Of course your frame will weep red grease all over hell and tarnation whenever the weather gets hot...
Im gonna do this just for the color explosion alone!
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-05-2019, 02:12 PM
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@DPelletier, well, since you asked...

I figured I'd just pack grease into that cavity, so I hooked my grease gun up to the hole. I figured that once the grease filled the cavity that it would blow the out around the nozzle. This was so simple and cunning plan that there was no way it could fail.

Sure seemed to be taking a long time to fill that cavity, but I figured the grease gun was just not squirting that much grease per stroke. The pumping continued. I began to think that maybe it was going somewhere and, sure enough, it had traveled up the frame tube to a weld vent by the sub-frame bracket and had just started coming out.

I sat back on my heels and figured that it hadn't been that great an idea but no harm was done, really, and there wasn't shit I could do about it anyway.

On samuel's bike we used a chain lube with a tube on the spray head to fog the inside of the cavity, turned the bolt 180 and fogged it again, then covered the holes with 1/2" rounds of electrical tape and put a shmear of RTV over the tape.

The issue that I was trying to address is that the bolt is always greased before it is put back in but quite a bit of that grease is scraped off when putting the bolt back in. That leaves the bolt rather unprotected. And, of course, those holes need to be closed.


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On the way downtown I stopped at a bar and had a couple of double Scotches. They didn't do me any good. All they did was make me think of Silver-Wig, and I never saw her again. -Philip Marlowe

'Why' and 'How' are words so important they cannot be too often used. -Napoleon Bonaparte

Sting like a butterfly.
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Last edited by Tom Schmitz; 12-05-2019 at 02:17 PM.
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-05-2019, 02:37 PM
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Thanks Tom; I knew the background and was just pulling your chain a bit......but I'm sure your detailed post will be useful to those that haven't seen it - I think the "chainlube/tube/turning" idea is a great one and I intend to do it on my KLR's. Previously I've just relied on the "rip it apart every year or two and regrease" method.

Dave
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