Setting the Mixture Screw and Pilot Jet, the old school way. - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 26 Old 12-02-2019, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Setting the Mixture Screw and Pilot Jet, the old school way.

There seems to be a lot of confusion around about the mix screw, it isn't rocket science.

Firstly to do it the old fashion way you need to do it running, so you need a thumb screw. (Eagle Mike Has One Available now)

First warm up your bike by riding it, idling isn't warming it properly set the idle speed at 1000 rpm +/- 100

stick your hands under and turn it both ways until you find the fastest idle (if its idling too fast at this point turn down the idle speed screw not the idle mix screw) This increases efficiency. if its cold out, turn it in 1/8 from there so it runs ok when its hot out. If its hot out, turn the mix screw 1/8 more out so it runs good cold. Now set idle speed again.

P.S. You can't hurt a 4 stroke by adjusting the mix screw. 2 stroke diff story, but feel free to gently turn this screw and find where you bike idles best.

at this point, figure out how many turns you're out from bottom (gently) on the mix screw

rule of thumb
if the engine runs best and the mix screw is between 2 - 2.5 turns out, Your pilot is ideal
less than 1.5, drop pilot a half size
more than 3 increase the pilot a half size.

So as you can see a stock gen 2 can get away with a 38 in theory above 2000 ft

and all this works best with my custom KLX hybrid Needle that preserves fuel economy but still give you KLX power.

See the KLX/KLR hybrid needle here

Last edited by JdgDReDD; 12-03-2019 at 01:46 PM.
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post #2 of 26 Old 12-02-2019, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JdgDReDD View Post
There seems to be a lot of confusion around about the mix screw, it isn't rocket science.

Firstly to do it the old fashion way you need to do it running, so you need a thumb screw. (Eagle Mike Has One Available now)

First warm up your bike by riding it, idling isn't warming it properly set the idle speed at 1000 rpm +/- 100

stick your hands under and turn it both ways until you find the fastest idle (if its idling too fast at this point turn down the idle speed screw not the idle mix screw) This increases efficiency. if its cold out, turn it in 1/8 from there so it runs ok when its hot out. If its hot out, turn the mix screw 1/8 more out so it runs good cold. Now set idle speed again.

at this point, figure out how many turns you're out from bottom (gently) on the mix screw

rule of thumb
if the engine runs best and the mix screw is between 2 - 2.5 turns out, Your pilot is ideal
less than 1.5, drop pilot a half size
more than 3 increase the pilot a half size.

So as you can see a stock gen 2 can get away with a 38 in theory above 2000 ft

and all this works best with my custom KLX hybrid Needle that preserves fuel economy but still give you KLX power.

See the KLX/KLR hybrid needle here
JdgDReDD, for us folks that want to do the above (with your needle), any chance pictures showing these different screws and locations could be posted? I've done the EM KLX kit, but only with their instructions (and pics).

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post #3 of 26 Old 12-02-2019, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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I will definitely work on that for sure. I'm going to make instructions to go with the needles sooner or later but for now there are numerous places to dl a service manual, which i cannot suggest being copyrighted but .... Google knows all too

Take out that needle and put in this one then follow the idle mix settings post i made above, if your bike is stock you could put the stock pilot back while you have the carb out if you changed it. As stated above a stock gen 2 is on the verge of being able to run a 38

funny you should ask about the settings, see this post #142 i was probably typing same tiem you were

here it is

It's just too damn easy. Drop my needle in and have KLX power and KLR fuel economy. Keep you're wrist out of it for max fuel econ. Punch it and it'll drink like the KLX but oooooo SOOOOOO much power.

Stock bike (or near), drop in my needle n ride, that easy. if ya wanna split hairs you can drop at least a half size usually a full size on the main on a stock bike. eg 145-140 to me is a full step down, a half step down would be 145-142. (clarifying MY terminology) Just a snorkel yank and a UNI is still a stock bike. which 40 140 and adjust mix screw for fastest idle (2.0 turns on my bike) (yup need a thumb screw) 142 below 2000ft if ya want MAX HP. The stock KLR gen 2 is very close to being able to run a 38 pilot, i'm going to and see how much fuel econ i can squeeze out.

Now if a person wants specific jetting i need to know about the bike.

Drilling the slide does next to nothing but make the slide wear out faster. IMHO and doesn't affect anything mixture wise.

Once Lmod and exhaust upgrage happens then you'd probably have to run half size up from stock on pilot and a 1-2 full sizes up on main from ideal stock jetting depending on pipe so ideal on a gen 2 is 40 and 140 so with Lmod and exhaust i'd do 42 and 147. and 42 and 150 for sea level.

The needle works best for fuel economy with no shims and where i recommend it runs. One 0.020 shim will give very slightly better throttle response but will cost a bit of fuel econ

a bike should need to be HEAVILY modified to run more than 1-2 shims on my needle and at that point SHOULD run the KLX needle. (bigger valves, porting, ex upgrade, gutted air box)


Main Jet really only controls from approx 7/8 ths - full throttle, for most people, including me, the stock main jet is just fine, most of the time you're on the pilot n needle. The wee gain you get from dropping it isn't really huge and most people wont notice it at all, a half or even a full size on the rich side on main jet won't hurt and can only help torque, throttle response and acceleration.

Keep in mind these are guidelines, every bike is slightly different and every MODIFICATION has its own effects.

Last edited by JdgDReDD; 12-02-2019 at 08:59 PM.
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post #4 of 26 Old 12-02-2019, 10:10 PM
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I hesitate to have to say this, but I'll suggest that one should use the above information at ones own risk.
Just like my oil flow modifications.
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Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #5 of 26 Old 12-03-2019, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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I think that goes without saying for any mod.


The fact I'm a licensed mechanic should count for something.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
I hesitate to have to say this, but I'll suggest that one should use the above information at ones own risk.
Just like my oil flow modifications.

Last edited by JdgDReDD; 12-03-2019 at 01:33 PM.
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post #6 of 26 Old 12-03-2019, 09:16 PM
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Can we see your license?
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post #7 of 26 Old 12-04-2019, 10:40 AM
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Can we see your license?
I'll direct you to page 1 / post 6 of Judgdreds 1st thead.

https://www.klrforum.com/687111-post6.html

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #8 of 26 Old 12-04-2019, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JdgDReDD View Post
There seems to be a lot of confusion around about the mix screw, it isn't rocket science. Who is confused ?

Firstly to do it the old fashion way you need to do it running, so you need a thumb screw. (Eagle Mike Has One Available now) What is the new fashioned way?


and all this works best with my custom KLX hybrid Needle that preserves fuel economy but still give you KLX power. Really? My mixture setting is improper?

See the KLX/KLR hybrid needle here
No offense dude but i see your needle.....everywhere. I would suggest a better marketing plan is to set up a web page, lay out your documentation and engineering facts, then have a purchase option. Then simply link to your page rather than repeatedly insinuate people are doing it wrong and you have the true answer on multiple forums. I cannot guarantee sales but can guarantee less annoyance of the possible customer base.
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post #9 of 26 Old 12-04-2019, 12:36 PM
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Off topic mostly but i find that dealing with a high strung beast like the Klr having a capable staff onsite to double check work is a major plus. I have a certified Keihin inspector who can lay eyes on every orifice. An improper mixture setting would not be allowed. And another crew specializing in chassis inspection keeps the rubber side down.
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post #10 of 26 Old 12-04-2019, 03:40 PM
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I saw the SAME inspector at the timing tower (or whatever the horsey folk call it) on a race horse training facility in northern Virginia. I'll post his picture, when I find it!
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