New bike, Dohickey question - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 16 Old 02-29-2020, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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New bike, Dohickey question

Hi, I’ve just purchased a 2016 KLR with 431 miles on it. The dealer didn’t know much about the bike and seemed just happy to pressure me into more and more money because of all the extras the original owner had on her (it didn’t work, I am comfortable with my deal!)
It seems the original owner did his research and knew what he wanted as the bike has a laundry list of upgrades.
So the question(s) is/are..... Can I tell without taking off the case if the dohickey was changed? Should I really worry about it since the mileage is so low and just ride to the first change and then inspect? (That’s my though)
I’m willing to bet it’s original oil or one change in (if the case was opened). Oil is clean and filled.
Aftermarket filter and exhaust would indicate jetting was done. (But I haven’t owned a carb bike since 78!) She seems to run strong with stump pulling power down low. Is there a way to check if carb work was done without breaking it down?
Already spoke with Cogent about the suspension setup and pretty much have all mods accounted for. It’s lots of fun modding your own but this bike was so decked out I couldn’t resist!
Thanks for any input!
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post #2 of 16 Old 02-29-2020, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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And last Q.....
How hard is it to remove a tank that’s mostly filled with gas? I purchased the shop manual and am pretty proficient in the garage. So I’d like to get my dash wiring hooked up before this cold weather breaks.
How hard as in.... single man job given the weight of the tank?
I think this will also give me the opportunity to see if other mods were done.
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post #3 of 16 Old 02-29-2020, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vmanjeff View Post
And last Q.....
How hard is it to remove a tank thatís mostly filled with gas? I purchased the shop manual and am pretty proficient in the garage. So Iíd like to get my dash wiring hooked up before this cold weather breaks.
How hard as in.... single man job given the weight of the tank?
I think this will also give me the opportunity to see if other mods were done.
I'm an old man and have removed my KLR gas tank several times with it being near full of gas. After removing the fuel and vent lines and fasteners, you will need to lift the rear of the tank slightly and pull it back several inches in order to disengage the rubber "pucks" from the slots on the tank. Once the pucks are clear of the tank you can lift up and out.

Regarding carb modifications, if you're happy with the engine performance, leave the carburetor alone. If your curiosity becomes overwhelming, you can rotate the carburetor insitu and remove the top cap and float bowl to access the main jet and jet needle. You can do a search on this site to find comprehensive information on carburetor removal and twisting.

Lastly, you cannot determine if the Doohickey has been replaced/upgraded without removing the side covers.

Congratulations, the KLR is a fun bike for all sorts of uses!

Jason
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post #4 of 16 Old 02-29-2020, 09:17 AM
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First cup of coffee answer, so excuse my brevity.
I'm sure more thorough answers will follow. Congrats on the new bike!

I don't think you'll see the spring on the tensioner, and that's where the problem lies on the gen2.

Carbs can be turned sideways (disconnect the choke cable first or it'll break) to pull the bottom off. You can see a lot, but not everything this method.

Fuel tank can still be managed full. It'll be about 36lbs. just in fuel. Awkward but doable.

Sounds like a lawnmower, Rides like a paint shaker!

I got 99 problems but fuel injection, 6th gear or a 2nd cylinder ain't 1!

My wife: "I didn't know if that was you coming home, or a neighbor mowing"
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post #5 of 16 Old 02-29-2020, 09:47 AM
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Agree with above posts!

As to carb, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it," might apply. A controversial opinion, Kawasaki did a pretty good job in specifying a Keihin carburetor jetting for universal application. Compromises? Surely, but . . . expectations of limitless "free" additional power and unbelievable fuel mileage from jetting changes appear unrealistically optimistic, to me. (Full disclosure: Did perform 22-cent carb mod; satisfied with that modest tuning, but surely could live without it. )

Tilting the carb to disassemble works (if your curiosity burns to that extent), but, as mentioned above, the plastic "choke" (starting enricher) cable plastic nut at the carb body is at risk if not disconnected during the process. Then, re-connecting the plastic nut to the carb casting in the limited space available remains a challenge, in my experience.

You've been briefed above on tank removal; upon re-assembly, remember: TWO hoses, fuel and vacuum, must be connected to the carb for the bike to run as planned.

Catastrophic collateral damage from grenading idler shaft lever ('doohickey") unlikely on stock latter-day KLRs; spring tension limitations reported, but . . . not the "time bomb" hazard of Generation 1 design (IMHO).

Good luck with your care and feeding (and riding) of your KLR!

ďYou better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, youíre gonna be dead.Ē "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #6 of 16 Old 02-29-2020, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vmanjeff View Post
Hi, Iíve just purchased a 2016 KLR with 431 miles on it. The dealer didnít know much about the bike and seemed just happy to pressure me into more and more money because of all the extras the original owner had on her (it didnít work, I am comfortable with my deal!)
It seems the original owner did his research and knew what he wanted as the bike has a laundry list of upgrades.
So the question(s) is/are..... Can I tell without taking off the case if the dohickey was changed? Should I really worry about it since the mileage is so low and just ride to the first change and then inspect? (Thatís my though)
Iím willing to bet itís original oil or one change in (if the case was opened). Oil is clean and filled.
Aftermarket filter and exhaust would indicate jetting was done. (But I havenít owned a carb bike since 78!) She seems to run strong with stump pulling power down low. Is there a way to check if carb work was done without breaking it down?
Already spoke with Cogent about the suspension setup and pretty much have all mods accounted for. Itís lots of fun modding your own but this bike was so decked out I couldnít resist!
Thanks for any input!
One can use an empty 'Visine' bottle or such to apply enough continuous vacuum to the vacuum hose disconnected from the nipple of the carburetor to drain 90% of the fuel into a suitable fuel jug.
But as others have said, 6 gallons of fuel is readily manageable for most.

I use contact cement / weather strip adhesive to glue the plastic radiator screens to the radiator Mounts during 1st dis-assembly. It makes every future reassembly so much easier.

I have found a few of the doo-hickey locking bolts Loose from the factory. So if the bike were in my hands, I would remove the 2 plastic plugs on the LH engine cover, rotate crankshaft CCW to TDC original assembly point and then loosen the doo-hickey locking bolt and then re-tighten (just snug, 70 inch pounds). This is an every 5000-7500 mile required routine maintenance.
I would probably physically remove the engine cover to inspect for an EM Doo-Hickey with Torsion Spring around the 10,000 mile mark. (The factory springs are usually good for 1 or 2 adjustments beyond this Break-In Maintenance adjustment.)
One needs to know what they are looking for, so here is a great link to understanding the balancer system & the appearance of the oem vs EM parts.
https://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650...ng-spring.html

pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

Still riding my 1987 KL650-A1. 85,000+ miles & counting
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post #7 of 16 Old 02-29-2020, 06:18 PM
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Make your life easier. Siphon the fuel out of the tank into a suitable container. Bulb type siphon devices are cheap and you'll be glad you have one.
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post #8 of 16 Old 02-29-2020, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you gents one and all. Good info here!
And I’m not inclined to take the carb apart or attempt any mods to it. She runs fine and except for the missing 6th gear I keep hunting (and longing !) for she is just right for me. My guess is the previous owner took it out to save weight 🤔😳
I only want to document what’s been done to her to the best of my ability so I’ll know.
I just realized I have an electric siphon and a 5 gallon can here. Might as well try it to remove some of the gas.
I’ve been reading up on the bike and watching as many YouTube videos as I can get my hands on. And as I said I’m no stranger to the garage so this all should be pretty straightforward. And I’ve seen several videos on the doohickey but am not excited to dig in too soon. Too bad we can’t see it through the adjustment port. But at first oil change I guess I’ll pull the cover.
Now I hope I can remove the lower fairings without removing or loosening the engine guards.
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post #9 of 16 Old 03-01-2020, 04:10 AM
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Full tank ain't no thang, IMHO, for a rider fit enough to ride (I may barely be considered within that category); YMMV!

ďYou better put down that gun. You got two ways to go, put it down or use it. Even if you tie me, youíre gonna be dead.Ē "John Russell" (Paul Newman), Hombre
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post #10 of 16 Old 03-01-2020, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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It was a piece of cake. Syphoned about 2 gallons out and I really didn’t need to. It came off like me ole’ YZ125 back back in the day. And easier than the Harley.
Inspecting what I could see (and understand!) the carb has CVK stamped near the top, in the front there’s a brass fitting (round) that is facing up near the boot clamp and it has a red rubber cap on it. Flexible nipple like thing. And a harder rubber blue cap facing the left of the bike (radiator side). And looking at the dohickey area engine covers the bolts were definitely out at some point. Telltale marks on the bolts for the outter and inner covers. So the mods probably been done. The guy who owned it before seemed to be real thorough.
So the lower dash is in and wired. Waiting on the driving lights and then reassemble once the wirings in.
Thanks guys! If I can I’ll add a pic or two of the bike. Doesn’t seem to be a way from my phone
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