"let the oil set u free" banjo upgrade - Page 3 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #21 of 61 Old 04-19-2020, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Sportinh2o;704321]Pardon my confusion on this, but I'm having a point of view issue. Question on listed banjo position.

Is the banjo hidden by the starter the "beg of ext oil line"? Or the better question - the only one not to get cross drilled is the one above the primary sprocket?

I'm in the middle of getting this done.

the one hidden by the starter is the beginning. sorry but i used replacement banjos with the larger holes. i would go over supper doo’s article again. here is the link
https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20th...ht-oil-burning

Last edited by maverick9611; 04-19-2020 at 05:54 PM.
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post #22 of 61 Old 04-19-2020, 06:32 PM
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Thanks for the clarification. I was having a moment. That puts the non cross-drilled banjo above the primary drive sprocket.

Buttoning her back up now. Last big trip was 2k miles and I used almost a full quart - not a ton admittedly due to back road speed limits. Interesting to see what, if anything this does in my case. If I can diminish my oil usage from sustained interstate speed, great!

Sounds like a lawnmower, Rides like a paint shaker!

I got 99 problems but fuel injection, 6th gear or a 2nd cylinder ain't 1!

My wife: "I didn't know if that was you coming home, or a neighbor mowing"
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post #23 of 61 Old 04-19-2020, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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good luck
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post #24 of 61 Old 04-19-2020, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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have you done the oil restrictor mod yet? that will help too. i did mine in oil filter cover
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post #25 of 61 Old 04-19-2020, 07:30 PM
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The banjo hidden underneath the starter is the 'beg of ext oil line" (beginning of the external oil line, that black pipe that runs outside the cylinder). That bolt gets crossed drilled to 1/8" such that both holes are enlarged. Alternatively, replace it with a Kawasaki 92150-1641 banjo bolt.

The next one is at the head and it feeds the cams. The bolt should be cross-drilled to 1/8" or use the 92150-1641 bolt.

The bottom one feeds the transmission. The bolt should be drilled to open the existing hole to 1/8", but not cross-drilled. Alternatively, use the 92153-0627 bolt.

This picture may help:
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post #26 of 61 Old 04-19-2020, 08:27 PM
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Tom,

Thank you for taking the time to make it all clear. That helps knuckleheads like me. I did this a couple of weeks ago and promptly got the lower two bolts confused. Ended up redoing it a day later. It went much faster the second time around.

Martin

-------------------------------
2006 KLR650 - 40,000+ miles
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post #27 of 61 Old 04-19-2020, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chrider View Post
Tom,

Thank you for taking the time to make it all clear. That helps knuckleheads like me. I did this a couple of weeks ago and promptly got the lower two bolts confused. Ended up redoing it a day later. It went much faster the second time around.

Martin
I second that Martin! It was the whole middle of the pipe but beginning of the oil line that started it for me. Then the viewpoint of left case vs. right case. I know what I call what...but it wasn't crystal clear definite, to me. Silly I know, but low blood sugar from not stopping to eat while I wrench (terrible habit) made me question things that would otherwise be straight forward.

Also, I'd never had the header pipe off. I expected a fight, but the nuts were on basically finger tight. Weird.

Tom, that helps a ton.

Sounds like a lawnmower, Rides like a paint shaker!

I got 99 problems but fuel injection, 6th gear or a 2nd cylinder ain't 1!

My wife: "I didn't know if that was you coming home, or a neighbor mowing"
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post #28 of 61 Old 04-20-2020, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportinh2o View Post

Also, I'd never had the header pipe off. I expected a fight, but the nuts were on basically finger tight. Weird.
People ought to check those header pipe nuts at least once a year. How many do?
I recommend to always use anti-seize grease on exhaust nuts, bolts, studs & clamps.

I hope you used a new header pipe gasket at the exhaust port? You will need to re-tighten those nuts after your first good ride & cool down.
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post #29 of 61 Old 04-20-2020, 02:46 PM
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Talking about the exhaust, when I disassembled mine I found the clamp tying the stock muffler to the pipe fairly loose. When it was time to assemble, I didn't find a torque spec for that clamp (expansion joint?), so I snugged it up to what felt right (whatever that might be). Now my bike makes exhaust crackling sounds when it cools down after riding, something it didn't before. Should I be concerned about that, or does this indicate that the (expansion) joint is now tight enough? If so, hearing that sound would actually be a good thing, providing some feedback that the joint is tight, wouldn't it?

Martin

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2006 KLR650 - 40,000+ miles
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post #30 of 61 Old 04-20-2020, 07:33 PM
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Yeah, engines & exhaust systems & fuel tanks can make odd noises during cool-down. They probably 'talk-backwards' during warm-up, but we can't hear them 'speak' because of tail pipe noise.

pdwestman
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