Is it recommended to remove the cas from a 2012 klr650? I saw where someone took it off their bike. what all is involved in removing it? any advice would be helpful. thanks.
That is the air injection system that adds extra air to the exhaust for emission purposes?
You will not see a performance increase. I believe it is what causes the coughing from the
exhaust when decelerating or descending hills. Its a bit annoying on my bike.
I plan on removing mine as the location of the pump looks like a good place to mount a real horn.
You will be pulling the vacuum line coming off the carb, so that will need to be capped. No need to cap the line pulled off the frame. AIS is right under the horn.
Is anyone aware of a tutorial on removing the AIS on the KLR? I checked YouTube and could not find any info.
My Clymer manual has no info on the AIS. I'm sure its not a big job. I tend to overthink things but they get done right.
Not that I'm aware of. It is a very simple job. AIS is located on right side of bike, right under the horn. Held in place with 2 fasteners (pretty sure 10mm). Hoses are fairly visible in their routing as well and easy to trace. Hardest part of the job for me was getting the hose to frame connection undone. The only one that needs to be capped is on the carburetor itself, when that hose is removed. That port sticks straight up and is easy to cap. Pretty much a 5 minute job from soup to nuts. Sans the trip to my auto parts store to buy vacuum caps. Sorry I can't provide pics, I'm not near the bike for a week.
Believe it or Not, the butt end of the frame has its own air filter for the AIS, to keep the bugs out I guess, retained by a little allen head screw.
So no, about plugging anything other than the carburetor vacuum nipple.
Now if one were removing an Evaporative Emissions systems charcoal can from the LH Rear of a CA approved bike, the rubber elbow ahead of the RH Front corner of the battery needs to be plugged, as it plumbs into the Clean side of air filter box.
I found the air filter for the AIS. I bet no one has ever changed one.
I went to the local NAPA store and bought an assortment of rubber vacuum caps today.
I removed the AIS pump and capped the spigot at the carb and frame. I removed the steel line
from the head and cut it about 1/2" above the flange and tapped it 8x1.25 and locktited a bolt in the line and
bolted it back on the head. Took it out for a ride and no more backfiring and crackling out the exhaust.
The spot where the pump was mounted looks like a good place to mount a real electric horn.
I found the air filter for the AIS. I bet no one has ever changed one.
I went to the local NAPA store and bought an assortment of rubber vacuum caps today.
I removed the AIS pump and capped the spigot at the carb and frame. I removed the steel line
from the head and cut it about 1/2" above the flange and tapped it 8x1.25 and locktited a bolt in the line and
bolted it back on the head. Took it out for a ride and no more backfiring and crackling out the exhaust.
The spot where the pump was mounted looks like a good place to mount a real electric horn.
No.
But gasoline in the crankcase oil from a flooding carburetor, possibly allowed by a manual fuel tap being left ON would certainly cause smoking from thinned oil/over-filled crankcase to push the thinned oil up past the rings.
2017 & only 340 miles! Wow.
I'd suggest a complete carburetor cleaning and an oil & filter change (2.5 qts). Inspect, clean & RE-OIL the air filter as well.
Also check the bottom of the air filter box for possible exhaust heat melting.
Thread revival. On my gen 3, the ais valve has an electrical connector running up and over the radiator and into the main harness. I'm unable to trace it beyond there. I have a block off cap from 3D cycle and it'll fit but I'm not sure how to address the electrical connector.
Did the gen 2 bikes have this connector?
Will do, they seemed informative last time we spoke. My gut tells me a resistor will do the trick. Something similar to what Rottweiler sells in their SAS delete kit. I will post up some photos after my morning coffee.
Will do, they seemed informative last time we spoke. My gut tells me a resistor will do the trick. Something similar to what Rottweiler sells in their SAS delete kit. I will post up some photos after my morning coffee.
Here are some pictures of the progress. I think a 23ohm resistor will work. The air selenoid ohms out at 23.5. Pretty straight forward removal.
Pictures are being stubborn. Bear with me
You are doing fine with the pictures; there is more than one way to do it and it can be confusing. Next time you might try clicking on the wee icon of a picture:
and then either dragging an image to the resulting dialog box or clicking on the box and selecting an image file from your local drive.
Off-topic and driven by OCD, your chain looks a might bit tight. When the bike is just sitting on the floor on the side stand, can you lift the chain up and have it touch the plastic slider dealie-bop towards the front of the swing arm?
In your photo, the suspension is nearly at full droop, yet the chain is much tauter than I would expect it to be.
No idea on chain tension yet. Haven't even started the bike since I brought it home Thursday.. haha.
0 miles on the odo. I'll get to it when the chain slider shows up. Kawasaki put some lame plastic shark fin on there that has a date with the trash can. I'll check the chain tension preflight.
Why do you feel the need to install a 23K ohm resistor into the disconnected AIS connector?
It is dis-connected from the disposed of AIS switch valve. Can't you simply tape it over? Or does it throw a code on the dash light?
Why do you feel the need to install a 23 ohm resistor into the disconnected AIS connector?
It is dis-connected from the disposed of AIS switch valve. Can't you simply tape it over? Or does it throw a code on the dash light?
I'll need to get back with you on the throwing a code question. My experience tells me you must match the resistance of the selenoid to avoid the check engine light. Hoping for Thursday if all the parts show up and I get it reassembled.
That will be my final move if all else fails. I'd leave the selenoid in place plugged in but yank the in and out hoses. Obviously using vacuum plugs to cap it off. It's an option but using a proper plug with a resistor is just way cooler!
Update-
With the SAS removed and a 23ohm resistor plugged into the harness, I had no check engine lights and zero decel pop. The snorkel is also removed. This was my maiden voyage and I tore up some twisty gravel roads to break in the tires... well, that's what I told the wife. The bike runs amazing. The footpegs suck. Did I mention the footpegs suck? How anyone rides with those things is beyond me. My feet keep wanting to slip off and is an accident waiting to happen.
The thermabob kept the temps around 190 consistently.
70 degrees tomorrow so l will do some more riding to get some more impressions on the ergonomics and performance. So far so good.
I had mis quoted the value last year. It's infact 24ohm. I ordered a multipack off ebay for 5 bucks. You can double check the resistance of your actual selenoid with a voltmeter to be sure. It's possible some may vary a little.
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