Simple Cheap Upgrade - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions For repair, maintaining or modifying discussions related to the newly updated 2008 and beyond, Generation 2 KLR650 Motorcycle.

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post #1 of 53 Old 03-22-2010, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Simple Cheap Upgrade

I have a 2009 and was looking to upgrade pipe and a/c. I installed a Supertrapp IDS2 with the quiet baffle so it wouldn't be too annoying w/ a K&N a/c element. I left the air box stock. I modified carb with a 45 slow jet, 2 washers under needle, drilled air hole in slide to 1/8", cut 1 and 1/2 rounds off slide spring, and turn fuel mixture screw out 2 to 2 1/2 turns. I run the Dyno at local Harley shop and a/f ratio looked to be dead on. It made 35 lbft of torque and 37 hp. The pipe and a/c was less than $400. Plus I still get over 48 mpg riding between 60 and 70 mph on highway. If you need a slow jet stop by your local harley shop and ask. 45 is the stock jet in carbuerated twin cam models. If you can't find one shoot me a message I have a ton of them!

Last edited by rickybobbywebb; 03-22-2010 at 09:50 PM.
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post #2 of 53 Old 03-23-2010, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickybobbywebb View Post
I have a 2009 and was looking to upgrade pipe and a/c. I installed a Supertrapp IDS2 with the quiet baffle so it wouldn't be too annoying w/ a K&N a/c element. I left the air box stock. I modified carb with a 45 slow jet, 2 washers under needle, drilled air hole in slide to 1/8", cut 1 and 1/2 rounds off slide spring, and turn fuel mixture screw out 2 to 2 1/2 turns. I run the Dyno at local Harley shop and a/f ratio looked to be dead on. It made 35 lbft of torque and 37 hp. The pipe and a/c was less than $400. Plus I still get over 48 mpg riding between 60 and 70 mph on highway. If you need a slow jet stop by your local harley shop and ask. 45 is the stock jet in carbuerated twin cam models. If you can't find one shoot me a message I have a ton of them!
Hello Webb.

What is a 45 slow jet?
What was the thickness of the washers?
The IDS2 comes with 12 plates. What is the quiet baffle?
Where did you get the information for the 1/8" drill and cutting the slide spring?
What was the A/F ratio?
What counter sprocket are you running?
What are your valves set at?
Have you completed the Doohickey and Torsion spring?
Are you having fun?

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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post #3 of 53 Old 03-23-2010, 03:13 AM
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[B]Simple REALLY Cheap Upgrade:

Talledega Nites (legend of Ricky Bobby),

My '01 Dyna came with 45/190, '96 Sporster at 42/ 150.
The mains have different threads for the KLR! I didn't mess with the low speed
(which is fine as-is imo.) I got a 150 at Honda and left the 42 in there.
The cylinder size for the EVO engine and KLR is the same, only 20cc difference.
With the twin cam setup on the CV40, I think you are a bit rich, not that is any
problem, plus you said AFR is fine. Your mileage is in the ballpark.

I thought I knew everything CV when I got here from my HD experience and learned
otherwise. These waterheads are fine leaner than HD, but richer than stock. Nearly
everyone who mods their carbs here just does the #4 ss or brass washers (2), and
turns out the mixture screw 2 1/2 to 3 turns from gently seated. The cut spring
and larger hole can make the slide go up too fast. You'll be on the main too soon
and run rich during acceleration.
The sponge element flows fine, and most dudes don't like the K7N unit. The KLR
problem is the restrictive airbox. Remove the rubber snorkel. Some, me included,
drilled holes in the top of the box in an "L" shape known as the L-mod here. I did
5 1/2" holes along with the snorkel. Some do 1" holes that can be reversed with
1" plugs if they don't like it. My bike woke right up and I haven't tried the K&N, nor
an aftermarket muffler. Cored my stock baffle instead for a nice bark yet it's neighbor-
friendly at steady cruise and idle. I get 50 mpg and spent about 4 dollars on my mods.
Including the pcv valve added to the crankcase breather line, the cost went up another
$4.99. If ya take a look on the right side of the carb where the cables attach, now
there's a stopper that prevents the butterfly from going past 80 degrees. It won't
open the full 90. I still don't know what to make of that, but it's gotta be hurting top speed.
I bent the tab out of the way and it ran like CRAP at WOT. Came up with a new
stopper that won't let the 'fly go too far, but goes further than before, and I went from
the stock 142.5 to a 150 main.
The Dynojet kits and Thunderslide recommend drilling the slider but I never have done
it, nor ever clipped a coil winding. I think the extra turbulence helps with the mixing
and performance.

Sounds like you know what you are doing, and welcome to the site. Don't be afraid
to learn new tricks here. I hadda eat some crow. Thought I'd come in here as a
teacher, but am an apprentice. Some of the guys here have been working on KLR's since
they came out in 1987. I've been working on them since 2009 and have had
to relearn the art of mixing. The spark advance is more aggressive than HD's too.
Probably attributed to the waterhead once again. These babies don't go over 190,
where we had to try HARD to stay under 250 in the past and were really taxing our oil.

Once again, enjoy the site and welcome aboard!
CheapMark
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post #4 of 53 Old 03-23-2010, 06:48 AM
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Do the 2009 models need the Doo Hickey upgrade? I thought that was solved with the newer model..??
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post #5 of 53 Old 03-23-2010, 09:48 AM
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Heh cheap you mentioned spark advance and it got me thinking I haven't seen any advancer devices for the KLR. As I live at mile high, I can run tons of advance and it really helps with the throttle response. I have an adjustable Muzzy advancer on the GPZ, set it to max when first installed and it works great up here. On the vrod I adjusted the advance via a laptop on the thundermax ECM. So I need to look into KLR spark advancers, anybody know of one?

John

Farkled probably WAY too much, but good 20' footer for sure. '96 KLR, '06 HD VROD, (girl friend hauler), '05 HD Electra-Glide, heh it's a HD and I'm old now ;-) and I'm proud of riding a 800+ pound bike at my age :-)
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post #6 of 53 Old 03-23-2010, 10:16 AM
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I think one of the reasons that we don't see some of these more aggressive mods on the KLR has to do with the nature(s) of the beast.
The KLR has a very nice torque and power curve. While it doesn't make loads of either, it has really good low-end grunt and a broad power curve . That's really desireable for most riders.
While there are things that can/could be done to improve the power, it may come at the expense of the low end, with most are loath to lose.
The tried and true mods are inexpensive and improve throttle response while preserving that beautiful low end.
And, after having picked that low-hanging fruit, if people want more power and will spend some money, they go for the 685. Even that doesn't add a lot of power, but what power it adds is very broad and useful.
A road bike that is making 100hp can afford to lose a bit of low end to get more top end, as that's where it will be useful on the road. The KLR does't have low end power to throw away, especially when that's where it needs it when it's in it's element, off road.

That's just my 2 cents, of course, and I'm a bit of a Luddite anyway ;^).

Tom

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post #7 of 53 Old 03-23-2010, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbilly View Post
Do the 2009 models need the Doo Hickey upgrade? I thought that was solved with the newer model..??
RBW, sorry for the thread jack. I am still interested in your response(s).

HB, this was not the thread to ask this question but since you asked...the Gen2 OEM balancer lever is made better than the Gen1 but not good enough. It fits loose and is made of weak material. The spring is good for MAYBE 500 miles then it is through doing its job. Kawasaki is aware of the problems. There is another MAJOR problem KAWI created during the remanufacturing of the KLR650 engine. To be discussed at another thread.

RBW, again sorry for the thread jack.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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post #8 of 53 Old 03-23-2010, 12:20 PM
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Better, yes.
Good enuff? Yes for awhile.
There's a thread on it with a pic, and mine was the same.
The adjustment screw bit into the slot and made an indent.
Loosening the screw wouldn't let the adjuster slide due to
the indent it made. The casting itself has a rough surface.
It's not machined smooth to slide back and forth.
Also my '09 spring was fully relaxed. It had pulled the doo
as far as it would EVER go without ever once adjusting it.
We're talking 1244 miles on the scooter. Not excactly old.

I bought Eagle Mike's and would again in a second.
On the plus side, the new stock unit is unlikely to fail or come apart in the engine case
so it's ok to relax. Once the chain relaxes,tho, there's nothing (tension available)
to take up the slack. If you get extra vibration or hear a chain slapping the case
it's time indeed for the upgrade.

Metallurgically speaking, the casting is iron, and has aspects of both gray and ductile.
It's soft like an auto engine block, not hard like an automotive head or railroad wheel.
The softness is what lets the screw bite into the thing instead of just clamping it in place.


Reason for editing: Afterthought on Tom's paragraph.
My very first mod:

With the power coming on soon and low on the tach, I wanted an extra tooth countershaft sprocket.
I wanted to bring down the rpms at highway speeds back into the powerband. Something to
consider if you do 90% commuting and open road, and the occasional offroad blast.
I have no problems in the dirt with the 16. Only need first and second gear anyway. Well,
3rd on the looooooooong Indiana straight railroad beds. Ye hah baby!

Last edited by CheapBassTurd; 03-23-2010 at 12:34 PM.
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post #9 of 53 Old 03-23-2010, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomatocity View Post
RBW, sorry for the thread jack. I am still interested in your response(s).

HB, this was not the thread to ask this question but since you asked...the Gen2 OEM balancer lever is made better than the Gen1 but not good enough. It fits loose and is made of weak material. The spring is good for MAYBE 500 miles then it is through doing its job. Kawasaki is aware of the problems. There is another MAJOR problem KAWI created during the remanufacturing of the KLR650 engine. To be discussed at another thread.

RBW, again sorry for the thread jack.
Thanks... and sorry, didn't realize I was in the wrong thread.
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post #10 of 53 Old 03-23-2010, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbilly View Post
Thanks... and sorry, didn't realize I was in the wrong thread.
Not a real problem HB. You were in the correct forum though the subject is "Simple Cheap Upgrade" which referred to carburetion mods.

Now about those Carburetion Mods. I am interested in knowing what some of the mods do and where they came from. Sounds like RBW knows his way around a motorcycle and can handle a wrench. I have never heard of cutting the spring and the usual slide drill for a KLR is 7/64th. I have never heard of a 'slow jet' but I want to know what it is.

Tim

2005 KLR 685
2015 Yamaha Super Tenere ES, 5/23/2015
2012 Yamaha Super Tenere; Purchased 7/30/2011; Sold 5/23/2015
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