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2015 Apocalypse KLR650 Build Thread

23K views 35 replies 14 participants last post by  ReadyToBugout 
#1 ·
Hey All

Every Winter I like to purchase a bike and either restore it to its former glory or customize it to suit a very specific purpose.

Last year I turned a very hum-drum Ducati 696 into a Tri-Color street racer. The year before that I built a custom M109R drag bike. The year before that was a 1956 BMW R26.

This year I have planned a round trip on the well know Trans Labrador Highway. This 4000+ KM trip will take me from St. John's Newfoundland, through Labrador, Quebec, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and back through the center of Newfoundland via the Abandoned Railway bed. I will be leaving in June of 2016. It will involve at least 2300 KM's of gravel and should be a real test for any motorcycle.

My whole idea with this build was to construct a KLR650 that could withstand the apocalypse and still go looking for more. I want to build an absolutely bullet proof bike that is as tough and simple as a bag of nails. The AK47 of motorcycles if you will.

I will post pictures as I progress on this forum. Please remember to leave your comments, thoughts or suggestions as I go. :)

Without further ado, here is the brand new 2015 KLR650 I am starting with:



 
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#5 ·
All it needs is the lighting and a machete and sawed-off shotgun holder and make sure you get rid of the ugly front fender. Zombies are attracted to the stock fender.
 
#8 ·
Getting past the 1/2 way mark. Here are the new additions:

Moose Headlight Guard:



Moose Brake Piston Guard:



Zumo 590LM hard wired for constant power with auxiliary USB plug on the dash for iPhone or other USB powered item:



Oxford Adventure Heated Grip. I mounted the controller on a SW Motech Switch Mount:



Denali Light's are wired to the high-beam switch with a separate master switch on the dash:



Rear Dry Tube for behind the Motech Bags:



SW-Motech Skid Plate:

 
#17 ·
Too many bugs in my area, in Normal riding season to run a screen headlight guard. Usually need to use the bug squeegee at every fuel stop.

And I need to ask, don't the SW Motech skid plates "terminate a little short"? And a little too close to drain plug level?

I wish ALL of the Skid Plate Manufacturers would give the drain plugs at least a 1/2 inch of protected clearance! I personally use rubber 'donut holes', hole sawed out of old tires or conveyor belting or mud flaps to space the skid plates down!
 
#18 ·
I wish I could buy a skid plate that covered back to the swing arm pivot and didn't have a hole for drain access.

Tom
 
#19 ·
Tom,
Surely you can find a decent aluminum welding shop out there!
Add a tail onto it and fill in the hole.

Personally, I'd suggest just a smaller hole! The oil filter always slobbers down the side of the engine and onto the skid plate and frame, necessitating a De-greasing after oil changing anyways!
 
#21 ·
Paul,

It's on my list of stuff to do. I need to find a bit of 3/16" plate and make a plug for the hole and a tail for the back.

The list of stuff I do at an oil change would make R&R of the skid plate hardly noticeable.

Tom
 
#22 ·
I'd still rather spray some "Gunk Engine Bright" on the RH side of the engine and the skid plate, than remove the skid plate!
Just a 'normal oil and filter change', NO Modifying!
Just spray it down with Water when Done! Hot water preferred, but not necessary.
 
#26 ·
Are those Motech pegs convertible? Look like the are! Cool.

Warp 9, reach adjustable levers, haven't seen or heard of them before, Excellent!

Bark buster handlebar weights, neat. But the stockers would keep the bodywork further from the ground.

EM Fork Brace, actually 'Best' to finish tighten with compression of the suspension. More over-lap of the fork tubes, maybe straighter?.
 
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