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2016 doohickey

42K views 35 replies 10 participants last post by  CheapBassTurd 
#1 ·
Do I need to put a new doohickey on a 2016 KLR?
The salesman looked at me like I was an idiot. And had never heard of a doohickey.
 
#2 ·
Latter-day doohickeys appear rather robust; however . . . spring tension issues have surfaced.

I'd think you needn't worry about a doohickey upgrade through your factory warranty period (not that a doohickey upgrade would void your warranty).

Nowadays, doohickey anxiety appears directly proportional to Internet access and activity. Or, ALL stock doohickeys are, "ticking time bombs!"
 
#5 ·
Or, perhaps . . . the Internet! :)

The OP is in Australia; however . . . the reaction from the dealership is not unlike that of US dealerships . . . I think most aftermarket doohickey implants are performed by KLR owners, not shops, thus . . . dealership personnel remain largely unaware of the horrors of doohickeydom . . .
 
#4 ·
Powersports salesmen spend a lot of time researching and keeping on top of most models of the three, four or more brands their dealership offers; mostly on their own time I can tell you because I was one. However, the reality is that they sell about 20 sport bikes and 15 cruisers to every dually or pureplay dirt bike, so you can see where their time naturally goes. Unless they’re a dual sport or off-road enthusiast, they probably never heard of the klr doohickey. If they are, they know it as a beaten topic to stay clear of on AdvRider … until they buy one. :serious:

I've had dirt and dual sports but what I’ve learned about the KLR650 is that it requires more operational and functionality mods/corrections than any bike I’ve ever seen in almost 5 decades of riding and ‘renching bikes. I wont go through the whole list of funny names (doohickey, spongebob, 22 cent mod) as it’s been done many times in many threads on many forums. What I will say is that I have a long list of “things” I both need to do and want to do to my 5 week old 2016 KLR, but I’ve staged the work over time so that I can actually fit a ride in on the damn thing once and awhile between all the freaking ‘renching.

As for the doohickey, I plan to replace the tensioner lever and spring at somewhere around 4,000--5,000 miles. After culling all the threads and vids on this topic, many of which seem to get contentious, I finally found a vid that visually showed exactly what the problem is so I could make my own decision.

Plus, how can you not trust a motorcycle mechanic with a German accent and named Jorgen? :wink2:

Of the 16:45 minute video, the meat of the problems with the GEN2 KLR tensioner are covered at 4:20 – 7:10.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hsYTaI1vL08

Essentially, Jorgen points out in the video that the tensioner lever itself continues to be flawed because (i) it’s not firmly mounted with too much play and (ii) it’s design limits the adjustment range to only a small portion of the slot implying that it's not enough for proper operation of the lever. The other issue is that the tensioner spring becomes sprung and all but useless in a very short amount of time. The spring in the vid had sprung by 6500 kilometers or 4000 miles. Apparently, once sprung they also have a tendency to break.

Jorgen replaces the lever and spring with the Eagle Mike doohickey and torsion spring, which is my plan as well. The parts and tools for the doohickey/spring mod are individually $157.65 from Eagle Mikes, but he sells the whole package bundled up for $138. There may be some ops to fab some of the tools and save even some more.

That’s my story and I’m sticking by it. :smile2:
 
#6 ·
I've had dirt and dual sports but what I’ve learned about the KLR650 is that it requires more operational and functionality mods/corrections than any bike I’ve ever seen in almost 5 decades of riding and ‘renching bikes. I wont go through the whole list of funny names (doohickey, spongebob, 22 cent mod) as it’s been done many times in many threads on many forums. What I will say is that I have a long list of “things” I both need to do and want to do to my 5 week old 2016 KLR, but I’ve staged the work over time so that I can actually fit a ride in on the damn thing once and awhile between all the freaking ‘renching.
I've had 38 motorcycles (that I can recall) and while the KLR (as a budget dual purpose bike) benefits greatly from some upgrades, it doesn't REQUIRE any of them. The "doohickey" is the only one that could be considered somewhat critical......and with the Gen2 it's far less critical than it was on the Gen1. EVERY other upgrade IMO, may make the bike better but they don't NEED to be done.

....that all said, both my KLR's have benefited from extensive upgrades; I've spent about $3k on each of them.....but it prevented me from spending double my investment for ONE KTM 690....which is what would be in my garage in the KLR's place otherwise. Certainly a KTM 690 doesn't need many mods; KTM's mantra "ready to race" rings true but 90% of dual purpose riders don't need that level of capability and the KLR allows people to chose to spend as much or as little as they want to tailor their bike to their individual needs.



Cheers,
Dave
 
#7 ·
Bill makes a good point about salesmen and the wide product line they must be (somewhat) knowledgeable about. I often know more about a bike/car/truck or whatever than the salesman when I go to buy something because I've researched one particular model.

Some salesmen have never heard of the "doohickey" and some chose to pretend they haven't heard of it. The term "doohickey" is something that enthusiasts made up; maybe refer to it as the "somewhat problematic counterbalance chain adjustment lever" and see if that gets you anywhere! haha!

Dave
 
#8 ·
Darryl2308,
No need to search any farther than this forum for a Good Video about the Doo-Hickey and Spring. Our own Tom Schmitz (screen name 'souperdoo') has a couple.

http://www.klrforum.com/2008-klr650...ed-gen2-bikes-right-ah-but-spring-spring.html

I have a Big Problem with Jorgens doo-hickey video, he is using the Older Original Torsion Spring. The 7:00 mounting hole is No Longer Valid! LeftCoastKLRs instructions are out-dated as well, unless one reads the fine print.

The zip-lock baggie, which EagleMike packages his Torsion Spring in tells the proper location.
The current proper Torsion Spring mounting hole is to be drilled at 5:00-5:30.
I keep the hole in/on the flat surface of the case.
 
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#11 ·
"Idler shaft lever" is Kawasaki nomenclature for the part colloquially known as the "doohickey," Darryl12308!

(Since your avatar shows someone in a military uniform, you must know the meaning of, "nomenclature!")

(I'm reminded of the iconic first lesson to prospective pilots, "This, gentlemen, is an AIRPLANE!" :) )
 
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#13 ·
You're clearly NOT KLR material, Darryl2308!

Could refer you to an eloquent post, stating: Modifications to KLRs aren't REQUIRED, but serve to IMPROVE the machine, or "customize" it to the user's preferences.

Otherwise . . . how come Kawasaki has manufactured essentially the same platform (KLR650) for over 25 years? And, truth be told, I'd bet big money the majority of those machines operating today have . . . STOCK doohickeys! (There, I SAID it!) Nothing against aftermarket doohickeys (I have one with torsion spring on my Generation1), just . . . no guarantee your KLR650 engine will turn into a pumpkin at midnight if it has a stock doohickey installed, especially Generation 2s. I know of no Generation 2 doohickey component failures, nor of any catastrophic collateral damage from balancer tension system malfunction since release of the 2008 models.

Now, you asked for recommendations on another brand. For you, Darryl2308, poetic justice demands I refer you to . . . a Ural! Believe me, a Ural is YOU, Darryl2308!

:)
 
#14 ·
A Ural? Maybe if I wanted a passenger and a role in Kelly's heroes. But I want to ride trails and not have dramas. I love the look and price of a KLR but just want to jump on and ride. With my PTSD I don't want to get stuck somewhere and have a mental breakdown. Ok?
 
#17 ·
Darryl2308,
I'll suggest that you purchase a KLR650. Get to know it. Get to know us, on any of the forums.
Introduce yourself to other local KLR riders. Talk with them, ride with them. Work with them.
Chances are pretty good that you can ride the totally stock and standard, un-improved 2016 KLR650 for 10-20k (miles or kilometers), with only the OEM recommended proper maintenance done. Of course it never hurts to do some maintenance early, as long as it is done properly.
For instance, foam air filter must be Thoroughly Oiled after cleaning. Oil and oil filter change every 5k or less, careful with drain plug gasket and not Too Tight either.

Next winter or 2 away, one of your new found riding buddies or an older dealership mechanic will probably be able to assist with the doo-hickey and torsion spring.
I've learned to look at the doo-hickey replacement as a maintenance item.
 
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#18 ·
Whatever make and model motorcycle you buy, Darryl2308, you're likely to, "get stuck somewhere," especially if you ride remotely and off-road.

Even the Space Shuttle fails sometime.

Arming yourself with knowledge, tools and spares will help get you going again. I'd add, "preparation" to that list, also. The KLR650 profits from a proper skid plate, crash guards or ABS plastic tank, and hand guards (REAL ones, with metal spines), for trail survivability.

A more reliable bike? The KLR is easily repairable; spare and repair parts ubiquitous, and the support network formidable (look at this forum).

Doesn't fulfill your requirements? Not a problem; best wishes on your selection; hoping you have many happy and carefree miles on whatever bike you choose.

(BTW, men say DR's are prone to third-gear grenading, and throttle position sensor problems, but . . . all machines have their idiosyncrasies).
 
#28 ·
I was unaware of that. Then again, I guess there wouldn't be any reason I would be aware of it. Good luck in your quest. I consider the doohickey upgrade a minor hurdle, myself.

On the other hand, I can see why people get irritated by the fact that it's been a known issue amongst "the community" for years and only minor changes have recently been implemented to improve it.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Just for the record, Darryl12308, the Royal Enfield sari guards are for the pillion passenger, not the rider straddling the saddle behind the handlebars.

I'm incompetent to offer sari tying lessons, and . . . more's the pity, sari untying lessons. I'm sure I'd learn a lot from your riding lessons.

Best wishes.

================

Now, sincerely: [/sarcasm]

I think the highest of Australia and its citizens! Here's an image of a necktie I received while there; a most precious memento of a fabulous country and its peoples:

 
#23 ·
I've decided to reconsider the DLR. I like the bike and what I will be able to do with it thanks to all on this forum. That weren't smart asses and returned the respect they were given. Always remember the higher the monkey climbs the more ass he exposes Damocles.
 
#26 ·
Appologies for my last. As I mentioned before I suffer from P.T.S.D and can have a short fuse. I am very eager to throw my leg over a KLR and join many others in adventure. I have been over there as well, travelled far and wide and found the U.S to be a fantastic place. With some great people I'll never forget. I wish you many happy and safe rides.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Daryl,

I think you'll find the KLR to be a good choice. It is pretty hard to beat right out of the box.

Every bike is going to need something to make it suitable for your use; the KLR is no exception.

What it has going for it is an great reputation for reliability and a 6 gallon tank with a usable range of about 400 kilometers.

It has some weak points, as every bike does. It's stock skid plate is really just the business end of a cheap grain shovel and needs to be replaced if you are going to do anything more adventurous than hard pack dirt roads. The plastics one the Gen 2 are brittle and need to be protected with some bars if there is a chance you'll lay it down.

The doohickey thing is simply a preventative maintenance item that happens to be a pain in the ass. On a Gen 2 there's little chance that the motor will die from it, but at some time in the future the spring will go slack and it won't be possible to get the balancer chain to adjust. When the chain gets enough slack in it it will eventually nibble at the case around the upper balancer bearing and a bit of glitter will be seen in your filter. Getting to that point could take as little as 10,000 kilometers or as much as never.

The engine will use oil when you spin it over 5,000 rpm, so it's imperative to keep an eye on the oil and make sure it is topped up at all times. Once the engine runs low enough on oil to starve the cams you have 9 seconds to live.

Change the oil every 5,000 kilometers with a decent oil that meets the spec in the book. Some advocate changing the filter every other oil change, a $2 decision I have never understood or agreed with.

Be gentle with the oil drain plug, torquing it to only 10 or 12 foot pounds (better just an eighth turn tight on a neoprene washer with lock wire back up) to avoid stripping the thing. The spec in the book is too high. The thing vibrates like a dog poopin' peach pits, so check the torque on all the bolts every now and again and pay strict attention to the torque values of the bolts. Some are easy to strip. Remove the foot peg bolts, put some thread lock on them, and torque them properly and check them regularly, too.

The engine is simple to work on should you need too, as is the rest of the bike. It is truly state of the art. For about 1980.

Change the gas as frequently as possible and enjoy.

Tom
 
#32 ·
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