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Trailer restraint?

6K views 20 replies 11 participants last post by  Toney 
#1 ·
We bought a 7x16 enclosed trailer with rear door ramp.

My son has a BMW S1000RR, mine of course the ‘16 KLR.

Pit-Bull lists a nice restraint system for his bike, but not the same type for the KLR.
I have an email and phone message to them asking about KLR. No reply yet so I’m asking here what other type restraint system you all might be using to secure the KLR to a wood floor, or if you know if the concours or versys model could be the same mounting for the Pit-Bull that they do offer?
 
#2 ·
Nice, You can sleep in that!

As long as you load the front suspensions on the bikes using tie-downs ~ nothing special needed. Maybe I don't understand ... Probably a wood floor where you can add any hackle you need. Make sure you keep some tongue weight on the trailer and hitch (a few hundred pounds) as you lay out the bench, carriage, tools, fuel, etc. - but let the axles carry most of the weight -

Most off these you have to customize yourself (or pay a ton for a simple addition).
 
#3 ·
Yeah we have lots to do to make it our own. It is new and pretty much a base model with no add-ons.

Build a work bench.
Lighting.
Battery system and charger/solar.
Gear and tools anchoring.
Venting. probably 2 RV roof vents, maybe with the solar powered fan.
Floor covering. Considering one piece linoleum.

As Just a start.....
 
#5 ·
Pit-Bull got back to me and unfortunately they said no plans to make their restraint for the KLR.. Bummer.

Guess I'll go with these recessed hooks, $22 from Amazon...

 
#6 ·
First step would be to get wheel chocks and figure out their position before adding the tie down points to the trailer. I prefer ratchet straps (Powertyes are my favorite but even cheapies from northern tool will do). I don't care for covered trailers because you can't tell when a strap comes loose ...
 
#7 ·
Dan,
Be certain to use a bunjie cord between the eye of the upper tie down hook and the eye of the Lower Tie Down Hook.
This will keep the lower hook engaged onto the floor plate rings, when one hits chuck holes, G-outs or sharp turns, which compress the suspension. Or use tie down straps with a snap-hook at the bottom, like Ancra's Red Snappers.

Also a PC racing / MSR Mini fork spring support will keep the front tighter, by not allowing front suspension movement in the 1st place.
 
#8 ·
The Gen 2 is hard to tie down without bothering the fragile plastics.

Consider those tie downs that bridge the handlebars with cuffs or install tie down plates on the lower triple tree.
 
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#9 ·
Canyon Dancer stainless steel Strap Rings & 2 longer bolts on the lower triple clamps is the answer to that issue Tom. I move the 8 x 55 LH bolt (brake hose side) to the RH side and then only need 1, K#, 130BA0860 / 8 x 60 bolt for the LH side.

Usually better than using the Canyon Dancer handlebar harness on bikes with fairly open fender to fairing clearance anyways.
 
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#10 ·
Yes! Canyon Dancer was the brand of strap that SLO-KLR and I used for trailering to Utah. Couldn't remember the brand.

The rings on the lower triple is definitely better than the handlebar harness as you never know when you might need to take the Ride of Shame, or just plain need to strap it down when the handlebar harness isn't to hand.

Plus, if you have guards the harness is useless.

Thanks Paul!
 
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#12 ·
I have three trailers and transport everything from forklifts, scissor lifts, cars to motorcycles. The HD recessed floor tiedowns similar to the ones pictured earlier have over double the capacity to hold a 4000 lb car (4 tie downs) if you have a 3/4" plywood floor in good condition. For motorcycles, I use two good quality straps on the front against a chock or the front wall and two on the rear from the rack down. I also install a strap between the handlebars and rear racks on both bikes as a safety.

Cheers,
Dave
 
#13 ·
I looked around and really wanted something versatile so I could haul other things too. I installed these "L" tracks that came as a kit, then ordered some extra hooks and circle plates for the center. 4' Motorcycle Tie Down System







I'm using them in my 6X10 with a ramp, and they have worked out great. They are low profile, and very sturdy.
I "borrowed" an idea I saw on-line and made some simple tie down plates for the front end of my Gen II, and they are really nice as a solid point.






Very nice looking trailer, love the V-nose.
 
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#15 ·
So for the KLR, we’re getting a Pit-Bull tire chock for the front tire, and using 4 of the recessed closed eye hooks in the floor.
It will be ratcheted down from 4 points, 2 front at the forks using the Canyon Dancer strap rings, the rear strapped at the rack handles.

The BMW will use only the Pit-Bull restraint on the rear axle. Maybe a tire chalk too, though they say it’s not needed.
 
#18 ·
Never wrap a strap around a flat edge. Not even a rounded flat edge like angle iron, without a piece of carpet to absorb the abuse.

I urge people to use a bunjie cord between the eye of the upper hook to the eye of the lower hook, this keeps the hooks engaged even if the suspension compresses (and the strap goes slack) from a speed dip, pot hole or the sway of the bike around a corner or sudden swerve to miss a dog/kid.

The use of a Mini Fork Spring Saver or 4 x 4 x 8 inch piece of wood between the front tire & the front fender mount really makes a solider tied down package.
 
#19 ·
To add onto this, be sure to take steps to make sure the tires don't move around on the floor. Even if you have a wheel chock on the front, the rear can still dance around. This happened to me and my zx6r when we were coming back from the track - the rear had moved about 6 inches to the side and was in danger of slipping out from one of the straps. And also put rags under the straps. Keeps the bike nice and helps keep everything in place
 
#21 · (Edited)
In my cargo trailer, I tie the tires to the floor, then I tie the handlebars (in the center by the key) using ratcheting straps & soft ties to a 2x4 that has eye bolts in it. The 2x4 goes across the trailer (side to side) above the bars and it fits into mounts on the wall I got at Northern Tools. That way I'm not compressing the shock or forks. I could roll the trailer and the bikes would stay put.

These: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200658567_200658567

mount to this track that is on the walls
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200658449_200658449

I use these too: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200658521_200658521

The front tire goes into these: https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200692637_200692637

 
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