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What kind of chain lube?

21K views 32 replies 21 participants last post by  N3RDV 
#1 ·
Just bought a new-to-me KLR 650 and was wondering if there is a consensus on what kind of chain lube to use. I have some that we use on ag equipment that's really good lube. Only problem is, it's really tacky and strings out a lot, making a mess. Not such a big deal on farm equipment, but would rather not sling it all over my bike. Any suggestions? Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I use Belray. Good stuff. Spray on let dry, it dries like a powder. I used to use Maxima Chain Wax. Both good. Cheapo lube is fine too if you do it right and often. I choose the non-cheapo when I can cause it doesn't slop off.
 
#3 ·
+1 on the Belray. I've used some cheap Castrol stuff from a big chain store and while I think it lubes ok it makes a huge mess of the bike, even if you wipe off the excess it flings everywhere! The Belray is a little more money but I think it's well worth it.

Cheers,
Stew
 
#4 ·


More important than lubrication, to me anyway, is cleaning the chain. Any grit, dirt, mud on the chain mixed with any type of chain lube becomes a grinding compound. Would you throw a hand full of sand in the engine the next time you change oil?




I clean the chain and sprockets with diesel fuel. It is easier to find, has detergents in it, conditioners for o-rings and seals. A gallon lasts a long, long time.

Chain Lube. It's kinda like engine oil. More important than what oil you put in the crankcase, is how recently you did it. I think the same is true for the chain.

I lube my chains with ATF. Automatic transmission fluid. If I spot a quart of synthetic ATF on sale somewhere, I'll grab it. Otherwise, plain 'ol ATF. ATF is loaded with detergents, helping keep the chain clean. ATF has conditioners for rubber rings. I use "X" ring chains usually. At about $40.00 a foot, I put some effort into getting as much life out of them as I can. Last year I put 26,000 miles on a KLR 650. Changing sprockets and chain every six months or so offends me greatly. Many of the people I ride with are as anal as I am about their chain maintenance. One rider uses nothing but chain bar oil for chain saws. Another uses a mix of ATF and chain saw bar oil. Another buys 90w gear lube at Tractor Supply. Currently, one rider has 38,000 miles on a DL 1000 chain and sprockets, with nothing indicating a replacement needed anytime soon. He primarily uses the drainings of oil bottles.

The biggest draw back I have found using ATF has to do with an unintended consequence....it leaves the chain kind of a flowery pink. With a nice floral aroma. The sport bike guys with their gold chains suspect those who choose to create a pink chain may have less than heterosexual leanings. So I usually park over by the Buick or some where where it isn't so noticeable.
 
#5 ·
I've heard about using ATF before, do you find it flings all over or do you just use it very sparingly? Totally agree with keeping your chain clean as well, doesn't take long either if you keep on top of it. My bike lift gets a lot of use these days!

Cheers,
Stew
 
#6 ·
The ATF will fling all over the place if you don't use a rag to absorb the excess. Every few months, I pull the counter sprocket cover off and do a good job of cleaning the entire chain circuit. Some may object to that much effort to maintain the chain. With as many moving parts as there are to a chain, I find it a little reassuring to inspect the chain in this manner. I give the chain a fairly liberal dosage of ATF when I lube it, usually about every 250 miles. I lay cardboard under the chain to catch drippage. Typically, I lube the chain when I park the bike for the day, and allow it to "drip dry". I'll spin the rear wheel while holding a rag or cotton glove around the chain to wick up anything excess before taking off again. My swing arm has a continuous light oil film. Kinda like pancake syrup....some people like a little pancake with their syrup, others like a little syrup with their pancakes. I still have over half a liter left in a bottle of ATF I picked up early last fall, if that is any indicator.

It may be malarkey, but I think the chain runs quieter while damp with ATF. That allows me to obsess about and tune into all the other squeaks and rattles the KLR is famous for.
 
#7 ·
I'm on my Blackberry as I write this, so can't easily link to another post, but take a look at my recent post in this sub-forum about a 'noise, possibly clutch related'.

The noise wound up being a crapped out chain. Look at the pictures.

This was a stock o-ring chain. At almost 14K miles, the lube on the pins, behind the o-rings, was gone, but the pins were barely worn. The sleeves that the rollers run on, however, were completely toasted. The effect was that the chain, though it showed no outward signs of wear(nor did the sprockets), could not properly locate itself on the sprockets and made all sorts of ugly noises. The chain was close to a point of total failure.
It is my opinion that the lubing of the sleeves and rollers is critically important - a point I missed through ignorance.
When people talk of lubing chains, they obsess over 'keeping the o-rings supple' with a proper lube, yet miss lubing the part of the chain that carries the load and does the work. At least I did.
I am now in vatrader's camp, having become anal about chain lube. I was always a cleanliness freak, but didn't recognize where the chain really needs to have lube. Get lube into the rollers. My chain, judging by the pin wear, was about half gone. Attention to the rollers could have taken that chain to 20K and beyond.
I'm now using 90wt gear oil, applied frequently and carefully.
Hopefully, I'll report back in 25k miles that it worked...

Tom
 
#8 ·
The truth about motorcycle chains

I think this guy is mostly right about chains. Chains wear at the pins/plates and that what the lube is for. Lube on the rollers is gone pretty fast and I would guess that the rollers are harder than the sprockets anyway. I haven't seen rollers wear myself and would think that something else wasn't right if they are wearing.

I don't want chain lube mess all over the back wheel so no motor oil/ATF/etc for me. I've used the Dupont teflon stuff for the last several years and my chains seem to wear normally.

I did just put a non-oring chain on my KLR to see how it does. It's what I run on dirt bikes here in the desert.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Spec -

You're misunderstanding what you're seeing.

The rollers are on end in the photo. The really worn things (between the pins) are the sleeves the rollers run on. Those grooves were worn into the sleeves by the rollers. The inside diameter of the rollers was considereably oversize, too.

The outside diameter of the rollers, and the sprocket teeth, were in perfect condition. They had been well lubed!

Tom

p.s. - Sidewinder - thanks for that! That's really good snake oil!
 
#12 ·
Occasional Maxima Chain Wax, or WD40 when I remember.. Stock chain wasn't bad at 20K, but the sprockets were worn through the case hardening and were toast..

$90 for replacement set of chain and sprockets.. Lube regiment will be the same.. When I think about it.. :)
 
#14 ·
From EK Chain

MAINTENANCE: Lubricate your chain every 300 to 350 miles (480 to 560km) with a quality lubricant such as SAE 80-90 wt. motor oil or aerosol lubricant designed specifically for motorcycle chains. When operating in hot, dry and/or dusty conditions, you may need to lubricate more frequently. Apply a moderate amount so lubricant penetrates between pins, rollers and bushings (fig. 5).

CLEANING: Do not use harsh solvents or chemicals, such as gasoline or benzene. EK recommends using a biodegradable degreaser with a soft (non-wire) bristle brush or clean cloth for removing dirt. Use kerosene (paraffin oil) if necessary, let dry and lubricate immediately within 10 minutes.

From RK Chain:

Q How should I maintain my O-ring chain?

A. Doing routine maintenance on any chain is a crucial step to getting the maximum wearlife out of your chain. You should clean and check its adjustment every 400 miles (sooner if the chain gets excessively dirty). Use formulated O-ring chain cleaner or other similar product to keep dirt from building up around link plates and rollers. Don’t use a wire brush or pressure washer. If your chain comes in contact with water, be sure to use a moisture displacement (like WD40). Lubing an O-Ring chain is vital for maximum wearlife. All RK O-Ring chains are injected at the factory with a lifetime supply of internal lubricant. The purpose of an O-Ring lube is to keep the chain from rusting and the O-rings from drying out. Use a lubricant specifically designed for O-Ring Chains.

From D.I.D. Chains;


The motorcycle drive chain must be kept clean and lubricated regularly. The life of the chain can be extended and maximum transmission efficiency can be achieved through simple maintenance with a dedicated cleaner and lubricant. Our chain maintenance products are specifically designed for high performance motorcycle drive chains.

Regina Chain:

To obtain good performance and long life, chain must always be lubricated when in service.

All well lubricated chains keeps the friction between the working surfaces to a minimum by creating a protective surface between the sliding surfaces of the pin and bushing and also between the bushing and roller. A lack of lubrication increases friction between these surfaces, resulting in an increase in friction resulting in a higher absorption of power, therefore an increase in the working temperature of the components. This higher than normal temperature will result in the lubricant burning and becoming less effective, therefore increasing chain wear.
Signs of poor lubrication are rapid elongation of the chain, rust (reddish areas on the chain surfaces), and squeaks when operating.

In the O-Ring chains, lubrication is provided by grease sealed in the working area by O-Rings.However, it is still necessary to provide periodic lubrication to the chain. Lubricant between roller and bushings will decrease friction and heat, and will improve the efficiency of the drive, extending chain and sprockets life.

Lubrication also keeps O-Rings in good condition and protects the metallic components from rust and corrosion.

Tsubaki Motorcycle Chain:

LUBRICATING SEALED CHAINS
TSUBAKI Sealed chains are pre-lubricated at the factory with special grease. However, external (Rollers, inner- and outside plates) need re-lubrication every 500Km. (300 miles) or sooner, depending on usage and conditions, will help keep the chain clean, corrosion free and ensure maximum performance. Use O-ring safe lubricant.


Any rationalizations from neighbors, unemployed relatives and toll booth operators should outweigh manufacturers recommendations.
 
#18 ·
I use kerosene to clean the chain and primarily use gear oil to lube it. I have used chain waxes before but the gear lube is works and is cheap. I tend to clean and lube the chain regularly as it's easy to do and I take the time to looke the bike over anyway while I'm doing it:32a:.
 
#21 ·
Actually, as an old school machinist, animal fats have been used historically as as a metal cutting aid and lubricant. I was in Alaska on the North Slope working a job last year and needed a cutting fluid that was left behind in Texas. Asked the cook there in the chow line for some bacon grease. Worked like a charm, however he gave me a "look" since this was a man camp.
 
#22 ·
I've used PJ1 Blue Lable on three bikes now (Yami Seca, Kawi Vulcan, and now KLR).
Regular maintanence per the manual has always served me well and has not giving me any issues...Of coures the 06 KLR is only a week new-to-me-...

I'm open to opions and advice of course if it helps me improve my machines..
 
#23 ·
Cabrito is lurking and learning..
 
#26 ·
I think your riding conditions should, in part, dictate what you use to clean and lube your chain. If you ride strictly pavement, I think you have more options.

My riding conditions are about the worst imaginable for a healthy chain: I ride a lot of gravel roads and the talc-like gravel dust that goes everywhere seems especially attracted to the chain. I could spend an hour cleaning and lubing my chain, but within 5 minutes of riding, it's caked with an abrasive compound, so it really didn't do much good to clean it in the first place, but I still do. Adding more lube without first getting the gravel dust off is even worse.

I've switched to a dry lube. The chain still gets dirty, but I figure a dry lube is better than a wet one because it doesn't attract and hold dust and grit like a magnet. Sure, there's no way of stopping it from getting on there, but in my situation I think the dry lube lasts longer and is more effective in regards to my riding environment.

I clean my chain with a Grunge Brush and WD-40 and then wipe it as thoroughly dry as I can by using handfuls of paper towels wrapped and squeezed around the chain while I spin it. I then let it sit for a few hours, hoping as much of the leftover WD-40 as possible will evaporate. I really can't come up with a way to clean the chain with anything other than a "wet" solvent and try to get as much off as I can before applying the dry lube so the dry lube will adhere to the metal surfaces as best it can.

I do this every 2-3 rides or so, maybe every 150-200 miles. I should probably do it more, but it reaches a point where it's a trade-off between how much time and energy you want to spend doing it as opposed to time and energy pulling out your wallet and buying a new one. While I don't really mind it, I find my aversion to chain cleaning about equal to my aversion of buying a new chain. I'm happy if mine will last 8000 miles or so and I think it will with my cleaning regimen. I may be wrong, but I ain't gonna worry about it.
 
#27 ·
I've joined Va's camp this summer and have been using nothing but ATF. It does fling a little but my chain looks like brand new so I think it's doing a great job. What made me switch was that I used chain wax on it in the fall before I parked it (unheated garage), and this spring there was small amounts of rust on it. So, I either applied it wrong last fall (totally possible) or it's not offering the protection I thought it was. The ATF seems to uniformly spread over the entire chain surface and doesn't seem to attract dirt too bad.
 
#28 ·
I will throw in what is sort of working for me? I have been using a scott oiler for the last 20,000 miles and I think it has done a good job. I put atf in it and this chain was new when the Scott oiler was installed. I have Never cleaned the chain:ashamed0001:, but it still seems to be doing okay and I have not adjusted it either.
Now all that being said the scott oiler has recently become unreliable and it leaks when the bike is parked, also this is not for you if you want your bike to look good as it flings like crazy. The good things are that I basically have not touched my chain in 20,000 miles and it has lasted twice as long as my first chain that I oiled every gas stop and cleaned as often as possible. The other good thing is if you ride in rain you can just reach down while riding and crank the amount of lube up. I will say that after a 12,000+ mile trip without washing the bike there was a layer of dirt and grease all over that bike but the chain looked nice and clean:).
 
#29 ·
Last year I went to the BMW Rally in Redmond, OR. While there I attended a seminar given by the fellow that runs the Chain Gang website for the BMW F650. He was a fan of ATF, period. If I remember correctly, he said that a chain is lubed for life when you purchase it. Putting spray chain oil on it a waste of money, it gets slung of the first few miles. It doesn't get into the rollers where the lube would actually do some good. The lube is in the chain rollers. It's like grease and it's sealed in, so be careful what you clean the chain with, or you will clean the lube out of the rollers. The ATF keeps the out side of the chain clean, and won't damage the seals. He suggested using ATF every other fuel stop. I think he said he has gotten over 50,000 miles out of a good chain just using ATF. He also said that WD40 should NOT be used on the chain, it will actually cause the chain to wear faster.
I'm just repeating what was said, it made sense to me so I'm going to try it. If I make 50,000 miles on my chain I'll let you know. Best of all it's cheap and easy, I like both of those.
 
#31 ·
Lots of advice...reoccuring theme?
Run a clean chain and make sure it's lubed.

I recently picked up a 2007 Honda CB919F...the owners manual stated to use 80-90w gear oil...I've been using is for about 500 miles (applied to a clean chain...cleaned with kerosene)...

80-90w gear oil works well...stays on very well, chain noise is minimal to non-existant. chain looks clean (oiled twice since cleaning), and I can feel it's on there when I check...

I'll stick with it for now. Note: this bike runs at slightly higher MPH's than my KLR...:46: show off pic...
 
#32 ·
Wow! That's a sharp looking bike! Looks like it's going 100mph standing still :D. I only tried gear oil on my chain a couple of times but I had a lot of fling off with it... I probably used a little too much though, I have a tendency to over apply chain lubes. Again, grats on a cool bike!
 
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