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Drive Chain Questions

12K views 35 replies 12 participants last post by  DPelletier 
#1 ·
Hello All

I have a few questions about the drive chain on KLRs.

My chain has done almost 15000 km (9321 mile aprox) It has a few stiff links that no longer swivel. I suppose that I did not lube it often enough.
I have purchased a new chain. The new chain is a D.I.D. 520 VX2. This is the chain recommended for KLR 650s on the DID website.

The original factory chain is a "DID 520 VP2" This specific chain does not appear on the DID website.

pdwestman posted on another thread that the "DID 520 VP2" is on KLRs on his show room floor.
One question I have is does anyone know anything about the "DID 520 VP2"? is it a Kawasaki factory only chain?

My other question is about the joining link; The DID website says that if your bike came out with a continuous chain, then that chain must be replaced with a continuous chain, and if the bike had a clip link chain, then that chain must be replaced with another clip link chain.

However, I have read on this forum that many people use a clip link chain. The chain I have bought comes with a clip link included, but rivet links can be purchased and are cheap. My brother has a tool that can join rivet links.

So my question is; what type of join would you use for the chain?

Thanks guys

Matthew
 
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#2 ·
I would use the rivet link hands down .. Especially if you will be off road ... It is easy to install and provides a level of certainty I dont have with clip style links ...

I dont know about the chain model but I did just replace mine with the chain you have and it worked great ... Very nice quality chain ...
 
#5 ·
timberfoot, The DID 520 VX2 with clip type master link will work perfectly fine. I prefer clip type chains on the KLR and my KX500.

May I suggest that your Low Mileage oem drive chain failed Early because it was run with TOO Little drive chain slack. Probably straight off the dealers show room floor.
They always came out of the crates with Too Little chain slack and too many dealerships never took the time to properly adjust them.

The lower chain run MUST be able to be Gently Lifted UP (not forced) and just touch the Rear tip of the rubber under-slider. If it is not left this slack, when the suspension travels thru its arc the chain will go TIGHT as the swingarm goes to level attitude, As in transmission shaft, swingarm pivot & rear axle are in a straight line. this repetitively too tight condition over-loads the internal rivet OD to bushing ID and causes galling of the steel parts.
No amount of chain lubing can reduce this, because chain lube can Not get past the o-rings, but neither can dirt & water, this is why o-ring chains that are Properly Adjusted can last longer.

20,000 miles is not un-common mileage on properly adjusted oem drive chains on the KLR.
 
#6 ·
s usual, thank you everyone for your replies

To be honest, I did think that the clip link would be okay. I have read many posts on this forum from people that use clip links, no one seems to have had trouble because of it.

Roadrash, I have also ordered new sprockets. I know that there has been some discussion on this forum about whether or not it is necessary to replace both the front and rear sprockets when replacing the chain. I have taken the advice of the Clymer manual, which suggests that all three components, Chain, front and rear sprockets be replaced at the same time. To be honest, the rear sprocket looks near perfect. The teeth on the front sprocket are slightly concave on the leading side, but only slightly.

Pdwestman, it is possible that my chain was run too tight for too long. I did monitor its tightness , but, for most of it's life I did tend to keep it on the tighter side of the of the recommended tension. I will take your advice with my new chain.

Thanks guys

Matthew
 
#7 ·
My 1974 CB750 has run for the past 45 years with a chain connected with a clip style master link. Hasn't came apart on it's own yet.. Those who have problems with them install the clip backwards.. Installed properly they are as good as any rivet type. You must also be careful with the clip and avoid springing it out of shape.
 
#8 · (Edited)
For insurance, I picked up an extra master link and keep it in the tool kit. I have never had one come off either, but like I said, it is insurance. You hope you never use it, but when you need it, you are glad you have it.

I would think that the factory chain is something that DID made for Kawasaki. Look at the stock tires. You can only get the same model at the dealer. As others have said, the chain you have will work great.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I have always used a DID 520 clip type master link, but I am considering going to a rivet type. The recently last three standard type clips I have installed have come off, so I tried e-clips. A few hundred miles back I noticed one of the e-clips was missing. Today I removed the chain to remove the engine and saw the other e-clip was gone. I have never had a removable link plate come off due to a missing clip, but if it weren't possible, we wouldn't be using the clips.

Several years ago I was loosing clips on a regular basis and discovered that the hardware store bolt I used to replace the factory lower left subframe attachment bolt was 2mm longer than the stock bolt. 8x30 compared to 8x28 stock. That two extra millimeters allowed the chain to nick the bolt when leaned just right and knock the clip off.

So, I am now considering going with rivet type master links. I have removed a riveted link from my buddy's Suzuki with the small file I carry in my road kit. I would carry a clip type replacement link rather than a rivet tool on the road.
 
#11 ·
The riveted link being superior to a clip type master link is in my opinion hype. They probably stated that in the advertising for some crazy liability reason.
If your chain is adjusted properly and running true the clip will stay on until you decide to take it off. The key is the proper orientation of the clip. The open end must face the opposite direction of drive, or on the top run the open end must face to the rear. Put it on backwards and inertia could unseat a weak clip. I much prefer a clip type as it makes removing the chain easy if I want to clean it off the bike. Just keep a few spare clips in your kit and if you suspect you may have sprung one removing or installing it then use a new one.
 
#13 ·
As I stated above, I have used clip type links for 150,000 miles on KLRs. I did this because it would be easier to remove the chain in the woods if i had to. I never had to but, I did lose 4 or 5 clips in that time, which makes me nervous.

As I said, I think I will start using the rivet type which I can get ground off at any muffler shop, mechanic shop, motorcycle shop,...... or in the woods with my file. I'll carry a clip type as backup until I get to a shop with a rivet tool. No need to carry the tool.
 
#15 ·
Hmmm,

I think I will use a rivet link. I am convinced that the clip link is adequate for a KLR650. The experience of some of the posters on this thread proves that. However, I believe that the rivet link is stronger. Also, I have access to a quality chain tool, and I have a rivet link, so I will rivet the chain.

I suppose Gomotor's experience has finally swayed me... I will carry the clip one with me on journeys though.

Thank all for your valuable and friendly advice

Cheers

Timberfoot
 
#16 ·
As far a chain strength goes, that is only dependant on the strength of the steel rivets and the link plates. Not the type of final connector!

When made of the same grades of steel, a factory riveted Endless, consumer riveted or consumer clipped style 'master-link' will all support the same loading and have the same durability/life.

If the final 'master-link' side plate is a very tough Pressed Fit and the chain runs straight & true & doesn't snag on things, technically the master link probably wouldn't even need to be riveted or clipped!

RK Chains usually have a very tight fitting final side plate.
 
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#17 ·
Hello

Well I've put my chain on.
It seems that the shop I bought the chain from sold me a clip style link when I asked for a rivet link. So, I ended up using a clip link after all, and I still have the link that came with the chain...

Thanks for your advice guys

Matthew
 
#20 ·
I too have run clip type master links on mc over the last 50 yrs. correct orientation, no protruding bolts from chain guard or otherwise that could get close to the chain while in motion ( check when leaning over too), and all has been well. I’ve replaced many a drive chain in my day. On some bikes if the chain comes apart it may ball up and bust your engine cases ( Honda CB 750 comes to mind). I had (1) chain come off, and that was my fault. So- I have complete confidence in masterlink type chains ( of good quality).
 
#21 ·
While I think of it IMO, I will never install a Non-O ring chain, (unless it’s on a motocross bike that’s gets replaced often). O-ring chains last longer, cleaner, and will retain their lube inside, providing you don’t wash the chain in some type of solvent or chemical that would break down the o-rings. Just my 2-cents.
 
#24 ·
My chain has some stiff links as well. The sprockets look good, no abnormal wear and has the proper slack. Should I be concerned about the stiff links? Thanks
WD-40 seems to be the lube of choice around here. Have you tried it, and has that loosened them up?
 
#25 ·
Hello Beamwalker

My chain's links were too stiff for me to straighten with my hands. I had about three or four links that were like that. It was an X-Ring chain, So the X rings had failed, or there was mechanical damage to the chain, (Possibly from a too tight chain) The chain had to be replaced.

Lube your chain with Chain lube designed for use on and O or X ring chain. WD-40 and other such spray lubricants will dissolve the lube off your chain. These products are ok for lubricating door hinges, but not for motorcycle chains.

I believe if you want to own a motorcycle you have to be prepared to maintain the thing, which means spending money from time to time. So I suggest you buy a can of proper chain lube. I am not suggesting that you do not maintain your bike or that you skimp on maintenance...I don't know you after all.

I don't think that a few kinks in the chain means the chain is in imminent risk of catastrophic failure. Other, more experienced and knowledgeable members may disagree, and I hope they reply accordingly if they do. However, I would not ride at a speed greater than about 40 Mph with a chain like that. I believe that the chain will continue to deteriorate and will become dangerous as it deteriorates and the risk of breakages increases. So my advice is to change the chain as soon as you can.

The Clymer manual and Kawasaki suggest that you change both sprockets when you change the chain. Some people on this forum shared that they have changed the chain without changing both sprockets and not had negative results. I changed everything when I did mine. ( I have mentioned my philosophy about motorcycle maintenance)

I suppose my bottom line is; change the chain as soon as you have the money and the time...

Cheers

Timberfoot
 
#27 ·
...WD-40 and other such spray lubricants will dissolve the lube off your chain. These products are ok for lubricating door hinges, but not for motorcycle chains...
You're right, it is not a lube, but it does clean the chain and keep it clean.

I'm at 12K miles on my chain using only WD-40 and I haven't needed to adjust it. It is a little looser than when I installed it but only a wee bit. wattman seems to have gotten 34K miles on an OEM chain. I don't know how many more chains and what mileage he has gone on WD-40. I don't know what @DPelletier's numbers are, but I believe he is successful using only WD-40.

It's bumblebee type shit, but the bottom line is that it works with an o-ring chain.
@beamwalker, if the links are a bit stiff but you can move them with your fingers I don't think I'd worry. If they are too stiff to work with your fingers it may indicate that the o-rings have failed and water has gotten in, the lube out, or both and there is a bit of corrosion in the link. At 12K miles it would be a bit of an early failure, but not terribly so.
 
#28 ·
Yes, I only use WD-40 as O ring (or X ring) chains are permanently lubed and the lube is protected by the o-rings. As per the link I posted, WD-40 doesn't degrade the o rings. .....WD isn't a lube, it's a cleaner but you don't NEED lube on a sealed chain......as proven by Bill (Watt-man). My riding time is split between bikes and I don't ride as much as I like so I don't have anything like Bill's 34,000 miles to point to. Luckily he posted his comprehensive results and that's proof enough for me.

Dave
 
#29 ·
That is very interesting! I am surprised to learn that you guys clean your chains, but do not lube them. I would have thought that the chain would not last long like that.

I must admit that my own experience with my old chain (The one I recently replaced) supports your stance on chain maintenance. You may recall that I suggested my lax attitude towards chain lubrication was the cause of its short life. I lubricated that chain fairly regularly, though, not as often as the owner's manual suggests.
However, I am embarrassed to admit that I only cleaned it once in about 14600ish miles. The day I cleaned it was the day I realized it was in bad condition. My experience supports the opinion that cleaning is more important to these chains than is lubricating!

Thanks again guys

Matthew
 
#32 ·
While chain lubrication is indeed beneficial, when it comes to motorcycle chains and dirt roads not so much. The key if riding in dirt is keeping it clean not oiled up. The oil in the dirt is only beneficial for about a mile or two before the chain gets coated with grit and starts the erosion process. If going on a long hwy ride then I might be using chain lube, but never if going in any trails or on gravel roads.
 
#31 ·
Mostly wet and cold. The bike has been taken apart and put back together several times while it pours.
 
#34 ·
I will say that lubing, combined with continual cleaning is better than cleaning only when it comes to chain life. My 74 CB750 has an oiler built into the countershaft that depending on how far out you have the setscrew in the end, bleeds engine oil out onto the drive sprocket and chain. This keeps the chain extremely clean and WELL lubed. The drawback is the left side of the wheel also is well lubed and a real pain in the ass to keep looking good. You also need to park it over a drip pan or you'll get oil spots on your nice new concrete floor. I will add that this bike still has the original sprockets and is currently only on it's second chain during it's 45 year life. Sprockets have almost zero visible wear on them too.
 
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