Coolant Filter/Screen - Page 2 - Kawasaki KLR 650 Forum
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post #11 of 21 Old 01-19-2018, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damocles View Post
HEET dissipates moisture in fuel,

I think maybe an ATV or two exist with water-heated intake manifolds; not sure how "necessary" these accessories might be in our climate zone. Maybe worthwhile in more humid regions.
I much prefer the Electric carb heaters of the newer atv models. Much easier to un-plug to clean, maintain or re-jet a carb.

pdwestman
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post #12 of 21 Old 01-19-2018, 08:57 PM
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I suppose that I'd be inclined to repair what it came with.

Carburetor Icing is caused by the latent heat of vaporization absorbed by the fuel as it changes from a liquid to a vapor state in the carburetor. If enough heat is absorbed by the vaporizing fuel; sufficient heat can be removed from any moisture (humidity/H2O) in the air that the water vapor turns to liquid water and then to ice (solid water). FWIW it takes a LOT of heat to do this. Between a pound of water's Latent Heat of Vaporization (970 btu's), Fusion (144 btu's) and Sensible Heat (180 btu's +) it takes the removal of an awful LOT of Heat to get vaporized Water to change into Ice.

There are all sorts of variables involved in Carburetor Icing: 1.) The chemical makeup of the fuel produced by the oil refineries can dramatically affect what is called the Reid Vapor Pressure of the fuel, among many other characteristics. The makeup of the fuel can dramatically impact the rate at which the fuel evaporates (Reid Vapor Pressure) as well as it's latent heat of vaporization. It could well be that the rules (or lack of rules) in Oz regarding the fuel available at the pump, may be what prompted the Japanese (or the Oz Dealer Network) to specify a Carburetor Heater. Old refineries and/or low or little regulation of Evaporative Hydrocarbon Emissions can have this result at the gas pump. 2.) The humidity of the air. More water in the air can increase the amount of ice generated and thus the likelihood of sufficient ice being generated to cause problems. 3.) Atmospheric pressure. The lower the atmospheric pressure is, the lower the air pressure will be as it moves through the Carburetor. The lower the air pressure, the faster the fuel will evaporate, the more heat will be be absorbed by the evaporating fuel, the more heat can be absorbed by the moisture in the air and the more ice may result.

Water in the fuel can and will be a problem in other ways, long before it has any significant effect on Carburetor Icing.

For additional information on what the Latent Heats of Vaporization and Fusion are; for a start, please see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Latent_heat

For additional information of Reid Vapor Pressure, please see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reid_vapor_pressure
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post #13 of 21 Old 01-19-2018, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for the replies. You have confirmed what I suspected. I will bypass the system and let you know if there are any remarkable results.
Additionally, yes I have heard of the Thermo Bob and the Doohickey mods and I am keen to perform both as soon as finances permit.
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post #14 of 21 Old 01-19-2018, 10:08 PM
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KLRMac,
Just remember that your bike is all ready 2/3rds the way to a thermo-bobed system. Just change the hose.
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post #15 of 21 Old 01-20-2018, 12:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdwestman View Post
KLRMac,
Just remember that your bike is all ready 2/3rds the way to a thermo-bobed system. Just change the hose.
Yes I figured as much thanks mate.
Still got me buggered as to why the need for a filter screen in that circuit though...
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post #16 of 21 Old 01-20-2018, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLRMac View Post
Yes I figured as much thanks mate.
Still got me buggered as to why the need for a filter screen in that circuit though...
If & when you remove the carb & then remove the plastic upside-down 'T' with O-rings which the coolant passes up one side, then back down the other you may appreciate how easily paint flakes from inside the cooling passages of the engine could clog the 'T'.

pdwestman
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post #17 of 21 Old 01-20-2018, 09:40 AM
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Googling the part #'s for images added some insight. Kawi # 49116-1081 is a thermostat.....the exact same part as the yami R6 used # 4SV-1240G-00-00. 16160-1359 by all appearance is an empty shell with the same fitting barb sizes as the thermostat. Some models use the thermostat, some have the clear body in place of the thermostat. So for some reason they want it pumping with the coolant full time and some they want thermostat control. I'm not smart enough to know why but I still think its related to whether they are working with icing issues or emissions testing compliance.
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post #18 of 21 Old 01-20-2018, 10:54 AM
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flexiflyer,

The 16160-1359 is the filter body Before the heaters. The 49019-1068 Cleanable/Replaceable Coolant Filter slips inside of the body.

Take notice of a "gap" between a pair of hose clamps, possible part # 92170(A)-1863. This would be where the 'T' shaped carb heater 92005-1235 fitting is connected.

The 49116-1081 metal shelled thermostat body is placed After the carb heaters. And I can only suggest that its operational control is Ambient air temp or engine compartment air temp (fairings on R6), because of its downstream placement.
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pdwestman
Modify at "YOUR OWN RISK"!

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post #19 of 21 Old 01-20-2018, 11:20 AM
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Ahhh.......i should have perused the entire diagram

The R6 never had the filter portion which is the only "system" I have laid hands on. When I built the track bike i just removed and set it up like the 49 state model. Which interestingly (maybe) wasn't just capped off completely. One fitting was capped but a bypass line line ran between the other two. I rode that bike at some track days early spring / late fall where there was frost on the windscreen overnight. Never any apparent condensation or icing on the carbs those days as I looked the first few times just to see.

It's almost like they are treating the things like its a Farmall downdraft carb where the water just runs off the bowl hahaha.
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post #20 of 21 Old 12-27-2018, 12:06 AM
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If the problem is just icing air due to pressure/temperature drop in the carburetor venturi, the simplest solution would be to dump some heat off the exhaust pipe into the air intake like on an old airplane I used to have.
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